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8amp Power Supply for Digitrax DCC System
Ken has a question for those experienced in DCC setup and operation and asks:
“I purchased a digitrax DCC system with has an 8amp rating. I hope I know what I am getting into. My question is – To get the max performance out of the system I assume I have to purchase an 8amp power supply? Is that correct?”
How about hearing from some of those in the hobby that regularly read this blog yet don’t contribute. This is a voluntary service that is free to use, so help us keep it going for the benefit of everyone. Don’t just sit there – share your knowledge and experience with others in the hobby who would value your help.
Wheelchair Doesn’t Stop Train Enthusiast From Creating A layout and Having Fun
Carol should be an inspiration to us all and has sent in this interesting story about her involvement with model railroading:
Thank you for all the info you send it has been a great help to me and your e-book has been a godsend, as I am very new to all this modeling. I have to do all my work from my wheelchair and sometimes it has been a struggle, but I am thoroughly enjoying myself. I have sent you these few photo’s of how I am progressing with my N gauge lay out which is 4ft x 2ft not so big but more than enough for me to cope with. it is by no means finished, but thought you might like to see how I am getting on.
I have always had an interest in trains from childhood (much better than dolls) we had a marvellous set up which my dad was always in charge of. Growing up getting married etc … put things on hold but I always wanted a train layout that didn’t take up too much space.
Just last year our neighbour introduced me to someone who made me the layout base. It had to be small as I work from a wheelchair and my reach is very limited so the N gauge is perfect for me.
I started making my layout by painting the backdrop on a roll of wallpaper so there are no joins and it wraps around the layout table. I then added the tunnel and the hill. Next came the buildings, then the road. I did have a basic plan when I started, but more of it evolved as I went along.
The photos you see are near the completion stage but I am at the moment adding street lights, telegraph poles etc . As this layout was started for me I am now also in the process of making another layout which is smaller but this time everything will be done by me, more on that later.
NB. The reason I am in a wheelchair is because I have a very rare illness called “Mitochondrial Myopathy” which is a muscle wasting disease with no known cure. I am exercise intolerant and even picking up a train engine can tire me out but I refuse to give in and do nothing so this hobby is keeping me focused and giving me something else to think about.
Hornby R2581 BR 4-6-0 King Arthur Class N15 on HO Layout
John has an HO layout and sent in this question for readers:
“I have recently purchased a steam locomotive – a Hornby R2581 BR 4-6-0 king arthur class N15 ‘sir gwain’. This loco was purchased from a reputable dealer, but due to time restraints I was unable to see it test run. The unit is brand new and unused. Upon running the loco (without rolling stock) on an existing track, the loco front bogie continually derails when pasing over ‘points’. I have several diesel engine models and have not had the problem before. Is the trouble located with my track, or with the locomotive? Any constructive comments would be deeply appreciated.”
Comment below.
Race Track On HO Train Layout
Bob wants to hear from anyone with experience of incorporating a race track into an HO model RR layout:
“I want to try to make a NasCar race track. It doesn’t need to be perfect details. I am just starting to build a new train table and one part is about 3ft by 4ft. I would like to build this race track on it and have the train go around the out side. Maybe I could include a place to drop off and pick up people? I know it is going to be a big job to do. I had idea of finding car track at goodwill stores or similar. That would give me the race track for the cars but the stands will be harder to do. If anyone has any ideas I would like to hear them.”
Comment below.
DCC Motors For Slow Moving Locos
John doesn’t give a lot of detail about his HO model railroad project, but hopefully readers will be prepared to offer a “best guess” answer. John asks:
” On DCC what is the best type or brand of motors for slow movement of Diesel locos?”
Add your comments below.
Kato HO Track Stabilization On Plywood
Ray has sent in these photos and a question or two to test reader’s knowledge:
I have Kato HO track on my train layout which is on plywood with a 30% directly on the plywood while 70% is on Styrofoam, plaster covered risers. I would like to secure at least key places from movement. I would rather not use track nails. Can someone advise please.
Should I drill a small hole through the reinforced plastic and placing small screws into the plywood on some key curves in order to keep the firmness?
If I needed to further secure the track on the inclines should I use small amounts of hot glue or does anyone have any other suggestions?
I would like to avoid having the permanency of nails (easier to remove screws) and also avoid continuous glue around the entire track bed – just secure enough for good traction and prevent derailments from up / down movement. Thus far I have placed a little hot glue in a few spots to prevent the shifting and I have almost completed my troubleshooting so my train does not derail or uncouple going around curves and up and down the grades.
To help Ray please participate in the discussion using the green Comments link below.
To help Ray please participate in the discussion using the green Comments link below.
Mechanical-Magnetic Release Couplers
Mac wants to hear some opions on coupler options:
I need help to decide which couplers to use where - mechanical-magnetic release, electromagnetic as an option or the new dcc controlled coupler. I need help to decide which to use where. All the help would be greatly appreciated.
I am setting up a new HO gauge layout. I have been out of touch for a while. Need some discussion on use of electro-magnets in roadbed to selectively uncouple cars, also info on the new dcc controlled couplers. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Discuss this using the green comments link below.
Uncouple Cars and Using Electromagnets
Fred wants a solution to uncoupling cars and ask for reader's opinions:
After all these years of RR modeling, why hasn't someone come up with an easy way to uncouple cars?
I am heavily into HO but, running a consist around in circles gets boring real soon. I have a complicated switch yard and I would like a simple electronic way to uncouple cars and do some switching of cars to make up different consists.
I can't reach over and use the stick in all areas and that isn't fun or proper anyhow.
I have tried magnets placed in special spots, I have tried electromagnets also.
I have had some good results but, it is not reliable at all. There is too much running back and forth trying to uncouple.
After all these years, I just can't justify all these master engineers out there not being able to have a fix with this problem of uncoupling.
I have watched a film of European RR uncoupling and when the consist stops, I hear a loud click and then the consist moves forward and has uncoupled.
Why not over here?
So you see this engineer and others I am sure, have the same problem and wish someone out there could give us an answer.
I have a simulated train game. Called Trainz Railroad Simulator or TS2006.
In this game you can make up consist via coupling and uncoupling and sure adds to the fun of RRing.
I need help.
Participate in this discussing using the green comments link below this posting.
Model Train Postings Rejected
Following requests from several regular contributors we are taking a tougher line on incoherent or incomplete postings. Five postings have already been rejected and sent back for rewrites today. The problem is, that poorly worded or complete questions, are difficult to accurately answer and many of our regular contributors just don’t bother attempting to answer in case they get it wrong. One sentence questions are rarely published. Questions in ALL CAPS or with text jargon are never published.
Please understand, that the kind folk who answer questions are doing this purely on a voluntary basis and they often put a lot of effort into trying to help the person asking the question. If they are prepared to put in the effort, then it is only fair that the questioner puts in some effort to construct a well thought out question.
If your question has not been published, then you are welcome to reword it and submit it again for consideration by the Blog Moderator.
Submit your well-worded, well thought out questions at http://www.model-railroad-resources.com/submit-questions.html This is a FREE service.
Decal Removal with Floqul Decal Remover
Robin wants some pointers on removing decals and asks everyone:
“I want to change a tender from New York Central to Southern. I have tried Floqul Decal remover without success. The tender is a new Lionel. Have any of your readers got any experience with decal removal?”
Comment below.
Trains and Train Supplies For Sale Atlas, Bachman, Athearn, Walters and Others
Martin is new to model railroading and would like to hear any opinions others have about brand preferences and brand mixing and asks:
“I am new to ho model railroading. I have seen many brands of trains and supplies for sale. These include Atlas, Bachman, Athearn, Walters, and others. Are some of these brands much better than others? Does the locomotive, DCC control unit, and power pack have to be the same brand?”
Add your opinions below.
N Gauge Steam Engines, Train Repairs, and Soldering Track
Bill has three questions for readers:
Are there any N gauge steam engines available?
Also - I've been looking for an old mine building - buildings suitable for an old NW track layout. I haven't had much luck with Ebay. Does anyone know where I can get engines repaired? I have an engine I bought on EBay, that may work if I could get someone to take a look at it?
Also, what are the pros and cons of soldering tracks together to prevent cars coming off the track at the point where tracks meet?
Scratch Built Trains Using Scrap Items
Subhash from India sent in these photos of his Darjeeling Himalayan Railway DHR under construction. The model is totally scratch built. Train supplies are hard to get in India and they are very expensive for the locals to buy. So, people like Subhash need to be resourceful and scratch build most things from scrap items. This model train (see finished model in other posting) is constructed from pins, pen refills, ear buds, U clips, networking cables, plastic sheets, non tearable visiting cards, old CD spindle for the boiler etc. Once it is painted no one can make out what was used and where is used. Here are some of the pics taken when the loco was under construction.
Comment below.
Hand Made Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) Trains
Subhash from India has amazing talents and makes his own trains from odds and ends he can get his hands on for little or no cost. He is incredibly resourceful and builds everything on his railroad from scratch. He would like to hear some feedback from others in the hobby, along with any suggestions to help him create other things for his layout out of everyday items.
Subhash said:
Toy Train is the nickname for the locomotives run on Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) due to its toy like appearance.The oldest running steam locomotive is 110. Due to deterioration, most of the locomotives now run on Diesel, but some are still powered by steam. This train is currently registered for a World Heritage Site. I have made a new model of DHR train and have added to my collection. It’s a still model in TT scale.
Please add you feedback and encouragement. This guy is incredibly talented and resourceful!
Old Time Train Accessories
GailAnn would like feedback from others and asks:
“My brother had an HO train where there was a building with a man that came out and a bell would ring and he had a latern swinging as the train went by. Also coal loaders and unloaders. Are they around any more?”
Comment below.
Transformer Voltage and Wiring Two Transformers On Layout
It sounds like Gerry is having power supply problems and asks readers:
“How can I tell if my transformer puts out enough voltage for my layout? If I have to use two transformers, how do I wire them?”
To see earlier questions submitted use the search box above. If you submitted a question earlier and want to see if anyone has answered it, simply type your name into the search box above, or type in a keyword relating to the subject. For example if you search the name Gerry you will get these results.
This blog is run on a voluntary basis and is a free service for people in the hobby.
If one of the readers is kind enough to answer another reader’s question, it would be good if that questioner would add a quick comment using the COMMENTS link to thank the reader concerned. There are several very thoughtful readers who regularly give their unpaid time to help others in the hobby.
How to Make Scenery Look Realistic
Jake is new to the hobby and wants some ideas from anyone willing to share their experience on building houses in a town scene. Jake asks:
“Hello, can someone please help me…I have just started my first HO layout and I don’t know how to get started? What is the best way to make houses?”
To set Jake on the right track (excuse the pun), please add your comments.
Peco Points and Surface Side Mounted Points Motors
David has a question for Peco users and asks:
“On my OO layout I have been using PECO surface side mounted points motors and Hornby points, no problem, but I now have started useing Peco points (sturdier) but I find the motors not powerful enough to switch the points. Does anyone have the same problem, or any thoughts on this?”
Comment below.
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