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German Coaling Stations
Ian has a question someone might know the answer to:
"Why did German railways have such a cumbersome way of loading their coaling stations? According to the models by Auhagen, Faller, Kibri and Vollmer the coal arrived in open wagons/gondolas, was plucked out by a crane with a clamshell bucket, put into a trackside bin until needed. The coal was then picked up again by the clamshell and dropped into the overhead bunker to be gravity fed to the locomotive tenders.
The elevated coaling towers and ramp loaders used in Australia, Britain and USA would surely have been more efficient."
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Layout Plans
Kobi wants to buy a layout plan for a 2 x 3 meter (6.5 foot x 10 foot approx) layout and asks readers:
“Where I can find help to design a model layouy,2×3 meter (approximately), 3 levels, for HO scale? I want to run 3 trains on it. Thank you.”
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Marklin HO Coupling
Paul is reasonably new to the hobby and is looking for guidance from anyone with more experience:
"I am very new to model railroading and very heavy into Marklin trains,(my first set purchased) however on many occasions I find a nice car I would like to have, but it does not have Marklin couplers. Is there a way to convert j type couplers to Marklin? Thanks."
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Train Noise On Track
Tony would like to hear from other readers on the subject of model railroad noise. Please add your comments below Tony’s posting.
“I constantly read about deadening the noise of the model trains rolling down the track. The ‘clickity clack’. I also read about the authenticity of the layout and being an exact modeler of the era, etc. Has any one really lived next to, or worked on, or near a real RR? I have. Then, in keeping your layout authentic, you must have the rolling noise of the entire train and the track noise. Isn’t that why we have all the other sounds built into the train, the whistle, smoke chugging, air release the brake squeal, smell from smoke oil, etc. for the realism?
Can some one tell me why are some people so intent on deadening the track noise? I have seen entire articles of 2-5 layers of track noise deadening products. I have loved the sound as part of the whole RR modeling venue and real life. So lets get “REAL” here if you are going to promote authenticity lets keep it all authentic. By the way if one person in he family loves model RR usually most in the family do – so usually no complaints. Any thoughts would be appreciated on your layout and your noise or lack of.
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1880’s Wood Burning 4-4-0 Locomotive and the Royal Hudson 4-6-2
Paul want thoughts and opinions from readers and asks:
“I am presently contemplating beginning work on an HO model train layout. I am interested in two steam locomotives. The first loco is an 1880’s wood burning 4-4-0, similar to the one that pulled the first train into Vancouver in 1886 (#374). The other loco is the Royal Hudson 4-6-2. I also want to keep all my rolling stock within these vintages. I have limited space, so all I may ever do is settle for a static display…but I can always dream. I have contemplated a portable set up. Any help would be appreciated from anyone. Thanks.”
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Cityscapes To Model
Pieter from South Africa wants to model Chicago railroads and would like some advice from readers of cityscapes:
"I have had HO trains for 20 years, but due to my career taking up a lot of time, I did not spend a lot of time with the hobby. I have now resumed it. Since I am from South Africa, have mainly RSA stock. I am also still deciding on what eras and railways I should model. My first ever visit to the US at the beginning of September 2009, took me to the absolute amaizing city of Chicago, which I fell in love with immediately. Needless to say, that is what I want to model. I purchased a book on the history of the Chicago railways, but need some advice and articles on modeling city railroads and would appreciate any help I could get on modeling Chicago specifically. My space is reasonably limited, although that might change. Any advice for both limited space and unlimited will be appreciated"
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Mixing Steam Trains With Diesels
Geoff asks readers for advice on selecting an era to model and about mixing steam and diesel on the same layout. I’m sure some you experienced model railroaders will have some thoughts on the matter to guide Geoff:
“I am new to this hobby and cannot make up my mind as to which era I’d like, my leaning is more toward the steam era but I also like the diesel and electric. Would it look wrong if I were to combine all or should I run them separately at different times? Also if I had The Flying Scotsman, The Golden Arrow and The Mallard together would they be OK running side by side? I hope that you understand what I am trying to say. Please could your readers give me any advice relating to the eras of the trains?”
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New Train Poll
Just a quick reminder there is a new poll for you to participate in. You will see it in the right hand column. We have had really good feedback on past polls and it seems everyone likes to see the results. It is free to participate.
Happy railroading!
Scales and Gauges
Edwyn has a question for readers that has been discussed before on this blog.
“My clear understanding is that Bachmann, for example is HO scale and gauge. ie: HO =. 1/87 Hornby, on the other hand is OO scale and HO gauge. OO = 1/72. What is the relevance of the number of sellers who now list their HO and/or OO scale models (not buildings} as HO/OO. I bristle when I see Bachmann, Athearn and Atlas listed as HO/OO, or Hornby listed as HO. I’ve even had a local retailer get quite abusive and tell me that there’s no difference!”
Robert comments:
A lot of people involved in the hobby of model railroading refer to HO as being the equivalent of OO. It is true that the two scales are similar and a close comparison, however they are NOT exactly the same. OO is more commonly used in the UK and HO in other parts of the world including the USA.
The 2 scales are different, although the closest comparison. HO being 1:87.1 and OO being 1:76.
It can be a bit of a trap when advertisers list their locos and rolling stock as HO/OO. There can be a really noticeable difference in size between 2 items in the 2 scales.
One keen enthusiast emailed to say “I got caught in the early stage of modelling and bought a couple of carriages which were listed as HO/OO when in fact they were OO and much larger than my HO counterparts. I do believe the 2 scales should be treated quite separately and not grouped as one.”
Richard commented earlier:
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Power Supply On G Scale Layout
Gerry has a G scale layout and is having power supply problems and asks readers for advice:
“I am a bit of a novice at all of this. My biggest problem is getting my small (12×16) layout to keep current throughout the track. The farther away from the power supply it gets the slower it goes and I can almost forget about turning on the lighting inside the cars (track powered) and the engine sounds. Has anyone got any clues as to how I can solve this problem?
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British Steam Locomotives
Dave has a question for those readers in the UK and asks:
“Hi Could any one tell me the reason British steam locos didn’t have headlamps as well as the two lamps on the buffers.”
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British Steam Locomotives
Dave has a question for those readers in the UK and asks:
“Hi Could any one tell me the reason British steam locos didn’t have headlamps as well as the two lamps on the buffers.”
Add your comments below.
New Model Train Poll
If you haven’t already spotted it, there is a new poll for readers to participate in. These polls are always popular, and you will find the latest one in the right hand column.
Locomotive Wheel Traction
William operates an 00 hornby model railway and has a question for readers:
“My question is how can I cure my locomotive from doing a wheel spin? I am not sure if I am attaching too many coaches (ie 3 coaches ) would appreciate any suggestions.”
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Loop Connections
A reader asks for help from others in the hobby and asks:
“I am planning an HO layout which includes a track in which a loop doubles back on itself – that is at the loop connection, the right rail loops back and joins onto the left rail. I have both digital DCC and non-digital controlled locos. What special provisions do I need to ensure no polarity complications at the connections where the right rail meets the left rail – for instance – isolating switch frogs, polarity switching devices, etc. Also is the problem – if any – the same for both my DCC and non-DCC locos?”
Use the green comments link to answer.
Catenary Installation on Train Layout
Graham has a question is is hoping an experienced model railroader might help him with:
“I am a new model railroader and need advice on catenary installation. Is it worth installing, does and donts, pitfalls, what to use etc.”
For those who don’t know the catenary is the system of wires suspended above the track, which supply power to electrically powered trains.
Graham, perhaps it might be helpful if you could click on the green comments link and add some more details to your question, as it might help others to supply you with a better quality answer.
Control Console
Dave has two questions he is hoping someone can assist him with:
Q1 - Hi, I am looking to purchase some blank Printed Circuit Board so I can put my switches and lights all together. Can someone suggest a retail source online? Also does any one know were there might be some photos to look at to get some ideas?
Q2 - I operate my train set from Hornby Transformers and Hornby speed controllers; my problem is that sometimes they cut out and I have to wait some time for them to start again. Do they have cut-outs inside the speed controllers and how could I avoid this happening in the future?
If you feel you have the knowledge and are prepared to spend a couple of minutes helping Dave - please do. Use the green comments link below. I'm sure he will appreciate your thoughts and will write you a thank you reply on this blog.
Unpublished Questions
If you have submitted a question over the past few weeks and it has not been published it may be one of the 42 questions that didn’t meet the editorial guidelines. Here are the main reasons why some questions were rejected:
1. Lacked sufficient detail. (To get a good answer you need to supply ALL the relevant information).
2. Difficult to understand. (Questions need to be very clear and precise for readers to fully comprehend the problem you want them to solve. Most experienced model railroaders will not bother trying to answer a question that is confusing).
3. Poor punctuation and grammar. (We can correct minor errors in sentence structure and spelling, but we do recommend readers check and correct what they write BEFORE they submit a question. We want to make this blog easy to read and maintain a high standard).
4. ALL CAPS. (Some readers submit their questions in ALL CAPS in the hope their question will stand out. We do not publish questions ALL IN CAPS).
5. Use of TEXT language. This is not a mobile phone, so we don’t publish abbreviated words and sentences. Please use proper English.
So, if your question has not been published it probably didn’t meet the editorial guidelines. You are welcome to resubmitted your question again at http://www.model-railroad-resources.com/submit-questions.html However, please use the search box to see if your question has been published as we do not publish duplicate questions. Type your first name into the search box.
Please help us maintain a high standard with detailed, easy-to-understand, questions and answers. We want this blog to be interesting and informative, so that everyone in the model railroading community can benefit.
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