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Prewar Yankee Will Not Pull Load

Bruce wants help from more experienced model railroaders and asks:

“Hi, I bought a prewar yankee 616w which I have up and running. The engine runs well but it will not pull the 3 cars. It runs great on its own and will pull a car, but each additional car slows it and three cars will not move. The wheels spin but it does not seem to have the traction. It has a whistle which works but I do not know if it is original. My one thought was that maybe the whistle was too heavy and off loading the engine wheels. I do not know if there was ballast or weights to add traction. Any advise would be appreciated.”

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Tarnished Train Track

Mike wants to clean tarnished track and asks readers:

“After nearly 50 years in storage, I decided to show off my Lionel Santa Fe to my 7 year old Grandchild. Upon opening the box, I was disappointed in finding all the tracks were tarnished. Using a wire brush, I began to grueling task of polishing or maybe one would say burnishing them up. The dozen or so I did looked pretty good… not new… but much better then when I started. I couldn’t imagine repeating this for the other 30 or so tracks.

I tried a variety of concoctions such as oven cleaner, oxi clean, navel jelly and chrome cleaner but to no avail.

Can someone give some suggestions as I have been away from this hobby for many years and not sure if there isn’t a simpler solution than a wire brush. Thank you to people in advance.”

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Problems Ballasting Track

Gordon is having problems ballasting track and asks readers:

“I am putting the ballast down on my tracks. Every time I spray it with the wet water the ballast is thrown all over the place. I tried moving farther away from it but still the same thing happens. I use a sprayer I got online for this job. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? I am new to modeling and would like my first layout to look the best it can. Thank you if you can help me.”

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Level Baseboard Construction

Jim asks:

“What is the best way for a beginner to ensure a level, continuous base for the track layout?”

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DCC Verses Regular DC Operation

Thomas has a question that has been covered several times before on this blog (search DCC on this blog). However, someone might like to make some comment to assist Thomas who asks:

“I have a completed HO layout and considering going to DCC controls what problems will I encounter.”

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Peco Turnout Motors

Piet is new to the hobby and needs advice (and encouragement) from others with more experience:

“Could some one please help? I am new to the hobby and I am currently building a fairly small layout due to space constraints. I am using peco turn out motors but I am not finding them to be reliable. Why do they only work sometimes? I am using a separate 15v DC transformer. How can I make it to work every time I set the point? It is frustrating when a train derails under a tunnel or a point where it in difficult to get to? Please help!”

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Derailing On HO Track

John has several question for experienced model railroaders to answer:

“I have just built my first HO layout in the shape of a 1/2 dogbone with the two outside ends being 40″ wide. This limited me to a radius of approximately 18”. I have two Seaboard passenger locos with 6 wheels on each set of trucks and am experiencing problems with the locos de-railing going around only some of the curves. Am I doomed with these locos? What can I do to make them work? Does this sound like I may have an issue with my track at these locations? How can I make my track curves be more perfect?”

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DCC Sound

Devasis has some confusion over DCC and DC systems. Would a reader like to put him right?

“Is it possible to operate a locomotive equipped with DCC and sound with the operations listed on a normal anlogue dc track? Some manufacturers are offering remote control applications for locos with sound with operations by remote control. Can someone kindly clarify?”

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Outdoor Trains

Don has a question for those readers interested in operating trains outdoors.

"Can you use any scale outdoors. OR is G scale the only scale that will handle outside conditions?"

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HO Rolling Stock Weights

Ray asks readers:

“Can anyone tell me the proper weights of HO rolling stock box cars or hoppers?”

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Train Set Comes Out Of Box

Thad asks readers for help:

“My train set has been packed for 2yrs. I just started it as my hobby but I move around a lot. Will my tracks need cleaning? If so how do I do that and with what. I put track up and sparks come from underneath the locomotive while it is running. Thanks for any help.”

Thad, the Model Train Help Ebook has lots of useful ideas on track cleaning.

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LGB 55081 Reversing Unit

Seaborn has a question to challenge readers and asks:

“I need help wiring a 55081 LGB Reversing Loop Module. The manual that came with it has several wiring diagrams but, I don’t know which one to use with my simple layout. I am just doing a simple 2 loops at the end of a single straight track. I need to know more about wiring diagrams such as, how long to make the track with the sensors between the insulated area of the reverse loop?”

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HO Farrer Siding

Colin has sent in this article and photos for publication. Thanks Colin for sharing your thoughts with others in the model railroading community.

Several model train makers produce forms of ‘Rollers’ which allow a Locomotive to be operated although stationary, as in the same way a car can be tested on a Dynamometer. I recently obtained a set of 4 Bachman ‘EZ’ Rollers, which are designed to sit snugly on top of HO track as shown. (pic 1)



As there are locos with more than 4 driven axles and other parts such as trucks and bogies which need supporting, I designed the Testbed shown (pic 2) to maximise the use of the 4 rollers.



The 4 rollers sit between 2, 12 x 12 aluminium angle strips 90mm long facing inwards which are in turn clamped between 2 longer pieces of angle 300 mm long facing outwards. The long back strip is screwed firmly to the wooden base while the front strip has slotted screw holes to allow in/out movement. Two short pieces of track on wooden blocks also fit snugly between the long strips and can be slid in and out as required. The rollers and blocks are adjusted to suit the loco under test then the 2 screws are tightened lightly. (pic 3)



These rollers were meant for 2 rail systems but can accommodate 3 rail locos as the material between the rollers is plastic. A small clip is used to get power to the centre pickup shoe. On 2 rail the outer strips conduct current into the rollers so the tightening screws must be insulated at one end. I mainly use this for testing locos which I convert to DCC but it is useful for all sorts of maintenance, and particularly helpful in locating bent axles and other mechanical problems which are hard to diagnose when the loco is tearing around a loop out of reach and sight.

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Atlas Dwarf Signals

Arnie wants help from readers and asks:

“I have followed the directions included with the Atlas dwarf signal included with the device. I am using Atlas switches. I can not get the light to change. It stays either red or green depending on how I connect the 2 leads from the signal to the switch. I can make them work properly eliminating the circuit board and using a relay, but I would like to use the circuit board. I have switched circuit boards with the same result. Any suggestions from anyone?”

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Golf Course on Train Layout

Harvey models in HO scale and asks readers:

“I have just got to have a golf course in my train set up. How much space would I need to set up a nine hole course, approximate 3000 yards?”

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Double Loop Power-Loc Track

Richard wants to hear from you if you are able to help:

“I have a double loop Power-Loc track. It has a large outer loop with an smaller inner loop which I have 2 switches in each side to run loc in either loop. What would I need to purchase to be able to run 2 locos in different directions? One loco would be in the inner loop and the other loco in the outer loop.”

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DC Wiring Or DCC For New Layout?

Patrick wants to hear from someone with experience in the hobby and asks:

“I need some advice please. I designed a layout with some minor modifications based off the Mineral Mountain/Metro central layout combined. I created it with anyrail. What I am facing is which should I go with: DCC or DC? I am fairly good with DC power wiring, but the DCC concept is new and unexplored to me. The last HO layout I had was 18 years ago, all hard wired with minimum turnouts. Where should one block end and one begin? How much power will I need? I plan on adding magnetic uncouplers in addition, and know I need a rerailer or few. Does someone have any advice to help me?”

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Bachmann GP38 with DCC

Bill asks readers:

“What sound decoder do I use for a Bachmann GP38 with DCC. This unit is totally stock and I want to add sound to it, and how do I install it?”

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