Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Interior Car Lighting DCC
James models HO and posted this question:
“I put some interior lights in a passenger car with 2 wires linked to the left/right metal wheels of the car but nothing seems to work. Would I need to program them for my dcc unit? Advice wanted please.”
Using Cheap Cork Roadbed
Many rail modelers use cork for their road bed because it is cuts and shapes easily, is lightweight, has a consistent thickness, provides good sound absorption, and is cheap to buy.
One option is to buy self-adhesive cork roadbed strips or squares. Another option is to buy Roll Cork, which is available at Walmart, Home Depot, Amazon, and most hardware stores. It typically comes in widths 3ft or 4ft by 3/16″ or 1/4″ thick, and the price varies from about $5/foot.
A sharp craft hobby knife can be used to cut straight edges across the width to slice off strips of cork to the width you want. So, for example, you could cut off one-piece 3/4″ wide which, depending on your scale, might equate roughly to the width of the ties. If you are methodical with your measuring and cutting, you can maximize the number of strips you can cut from the roll of cork, hence making your money go further. Carpenters glue (white or yellow) can be mixed with water and alcohol to glue the cork in place.
If the cork doesn’t extend past the ties, this can allow for a more natural slope for the ballast… if that is the look you want. Be aware that not having the cork separated in two pieces with one laid on each side of the centerline of the tracks can be a little more difficult to position perfectly centered. However, using your craft knife, you can go back and trim away any excess cork to make it flush with the ends of the ties.
You could, if you wanted to, slice the cork pieces to 3/8″ wide so you can tack one piece to each side the centerline of the tracks. Your track will be ready for painting and ballasting.
Obviously, the more strips you can cut from your cork roll, the cheaper the job becomes. You might average around 14 or even 16 strips (3/4-inch wide) from a 12-inch wide piece.
Ideas Wanted For Rural Layout
Keith seeks some suggestions:
“Hi everyone, I am relatively new (4 years) to this and have an unfinished 8.5ft x 5ft layout based around a rural theme. The track is in place with basically two ovals running around the perimeter with a couple of sidings and a passing track. I still have space for more structures (towards the center) and scenery features so am looking for ideas. I already have a small train station, a couple of farm buildings, and a small lumber yard. Just wondering what to add next to bring life and activity to my small-town rural community? Good to get some thoughts.”
Out of Scale Vehicles/Toys On Model Railroads
David has an interesting observation and related question:
“Our modeling scales have been pretty well fixed for over 100 years. Our hobby has probably the largest demographic of any ‘toy’ buying, world wide. So why do toy manufacturers insist on making their product to either no scale at all, or to scales that do not relate to our most popular ones (OO, HO, N, etc.)
Are they not aware that they open the market for their products immensely?
For example, if the Asian toy car and truck makers did them in H0/00 rather than 1:100 or 1:80 how many more they would sell?
Is it possible for model railway associations worldwide (NMRA and all the others) start a ‘mailing campaign’ advising companies of the market they are missing?
What do contributors to this page think?”
Feedback, Answers, Questions
Regular reader Robert M would like more of the people who post questions to provide feedback on whether or not the suggested solutions offered by readers were actually helpful. Robert M writes:
“I regularly look at the problems and suggested remedies. Could those posting questions please provide feedback on whether the suggestions sorted your problem so that anyone else with a similar problem knows what worked?”
Robert M has a good point. Some people do provide helpful feedback to the answers others contribute, but some people don’t bother which is disappointing because in most instances the answers are incredibly constructive. Common courtesy please.
N Scale Modules
Rodney asks:
“I have been trying to find the plans for an N scale module layout. I am looking for information on building four corners and individual modules for expansion. Any help would be greatly appreciated.”
Rodney, the following resource includes 69 N scale plans and links to some other excellent modular construction resources. The pack offer also has a step-by-step ebook on modules titled “Confessions of a Mobile Layout Builder”. Recommended resource.
How To Model Water
Mason posted this question:
“I know there are lots of fancy ways to model water on a layout, but I am wanting to model a couple of little patches of water a bit bigger than puddles in a sort of ditch on the side of my little country road. I don’t need much water, but I want it to look a bit muddy and stagnant. What material or method should I use without going to the expense of buying resin?”
Using Tiny Screws on Track Ties
John P sent in this tip to share:
“I was surprised a friend of mine who has trains didn’t know to do this, so I’m sharing it on the off chance some others don’t either. My tip is…I make use of very small screws for track ties. By using screws it is easier if I need to lift the track for repairs, or readjustment. My drill has a screwdriver attachment for the crosshead screws which keeps them in position until the tiny screws are nearly fully screwed in. I can then release the screw from the screwdriver grip. It is then a simple matter of a few final turns to securely seat the screw in place. I have always done this, but it seems not everyone does?”
Add your suggestions or comments below.
Polarity With Reverse Loops
Craig W sent in this tip:
“With a DPDT switch you can alter the polarity manually when on a reverse loop. It can be done with the track before the reverse loop. You would need to double insulate each end of the rail loops.
DCC requires insulating each rail at both ends as mentioned previously and having an auto-reversing circuit mounted to feed the reverse loop. You won’t notice the engine slow down whereas with DC you would likely stop the engine, change polarity to the track, reverse power to that track to proceed. However, when using DCC the reversing circuit is the way to go for this.”
If you would like to comment on what Craig said, then post your thoughts below.
SUBMIT YOUR QUESTION
Download Your Free Catalog
Use Tiny Railroad Micro Controllers
Model Train Help Ebook
