Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
How to fix Coupler Problems
Paddy asks readers for advice:
“I have 2 sets of HO Bachmann trains. The couplers do not match. Is there a way to change them all to the same? If so, what should I buy? Can I change over to metal? I am a newbie to this great hobby but I have always loved trains. Thank you.”
Track Wiring Solutions
Karl (a new member to model trains and the Online Model Train Club) asks:
“Does anyone have an suggestions for keeping under-benchwork wiring organized and tidy. I am just starting off in HO and am worried I’m going to end up with a confusing mess below the surface. Any suggestions appreciated?”
15ft x 6ft Layout Built In Two Sections
Phillip sent in these photos of his layout to share:
I have four photos of my 4.5 x 1.7 meter (15ft x 6ft) HO DC dual track model railway layout.
I built it in two sections, 2.44m (8ft) section and 2.6m (8.5ft) section on castors so I can move out from the wall. It can be separated if needed to be moved out of the garage.
I would say it is a double 8, it goes back under the goods yard and back around as you can see in the pictures.
I model Bachmann trains, and the diesels and steam locos are very powerful. I have a goods shed on the far left corner and a smaller goods shed on the upper level on the right.
Because the Bachmann couplers are plastic, I cannot be used with magnetic coupling devices. I have to manually uncouple the carriages with a length of flat tin to push up the coupler. You can see the piece of tin sitting above the Vector dual control unit. That is one drawback with Bachmann couplers.
I made the track control panels myself and did all the wiring up to the electric point motors and track. I have tried to keep the weight down as much as possible for portability.
Joining Flex Track With EZ Track – Can it be done?
Stan asks readers:
“I I notice there is all kinds of track out there – Kato Unitrack, Bachmann EZ track and Atlas Flex track to name a few. My N scale layout under construction has Bachmann E Z Track, but a friend offered me some unused Atlas flex track and a small section of Kato Unitrack for a cheap price. I think he picked it up at a garage sale. The Atlas is code 80 so would it be ok? Any advice would be a help. Thanks.”
Joe Shares Photos of His Model Railroad
Joe sent in these photos of his model railroad to share with readers. He doesn’t say what scale it is but I’m sure we can all guess.
Joe says: I had an area in my basement not being used. It took a little over year to complete. Here are a few shots of the layout.
First pic is a railroad museum in New Hampshire that my parents took me to see when I was a child. I’m 68 but the memory came to life on my railroad.
The other pics are the three areas I originated.
Left side is more country design.
Middle area is my plateau area. If you look close you can see the climbers almost to the top.
The right side of the layout is industrial with a small town and a freight yard behind it.
Making Water for a Model Railroad
Model railroaders are known to be ingenious when it comes to constructing, creating, and improvising. Creating water effects is a good example of this. Various techniques get used to create ponds, rivers, streams, and even beaches and harbors.
Although it can be cheaper to use an old mirror, a discarded pane of glass, or just gloss paint – it’s not usually as effective as using one of the many epoxy resin based products available from hobby or craft stores.
Resin products dry hard and clear so the surface under the resin still needs to be sealed and painted to add the illusion depth. However the final effect can be extremely realistic and closely resemble real water.
Products available include: Realistic Water by Woodland Scenics, Magic Water by Unreal Details, Aqua Water by Busch, KraftKote by Klockit. Other products are EZ Water (I’ve heard some bad comments about this product so would be interested in reader feedback), and Envirotex Casting Resin.
These 3 photos show how altering the base color can can dramatically change the perceived water depth.
If you would like to add your tips or comments on water making just click the comments link under this posting.
Loco Stalling on a Helix
James asks readers:
“I have an HO BLI cab forward 4882 and am having problems with it running forward down the helix I just finished. It will stall 6 – 8 times going down the helix, but backing up the helix runs all 94 ft with no stalling. Track and wheels are clean. Any ideas please?”
Lost Wiring Instructions
Murray asks readers:
“I accidentally cut the wires between the loco and tender on my Berkshire N scale 2-8-4 Bachmann Kanawha train. Where can I find the wiring instructions. They don’t seem to be listed on either Bachmann’s site or Sound Traxx’s site. The decoder is marked with symbols R, M+, L+, L-, M- and L. What do they stand for. I’m new at this and any help would be appreciated.”
What is the Minimum Radius for Trains?
Allan asks readers:
“Hi I am starting an HO layout on 4×8 or 5×9 board and want 2 levels but my problem is I want the track to climb 100mm (4 inch) in a complete circle. What I want to know is what is the minimum radius that I can climb to achieve this please? I am using strong engines and only about 5-6 wagons so won’t have much weight to pull up incline. Thanks for any help on this please.”
How To Replace Cogs Without Damaging Loco
Owen asks readers:
“Hi I have a loco (b12 4-6-0) that I need to replace a cog in and I can’t do that without taking off the rods that connect to the wheels and I don’t know how to take them off and put them back in without damaging it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.”
Fixing A Track Power Problem
Josh asks readers:
“I hope this doesn’t sound stupid but I can’t get power on my HO tracks. I laid the track, and it seemed to operate smoothly. Even after I wired up my points it was working ok. I tested everything again before laying the ballast. After the ballast dried I tested it again with my only loco (yes I’m new to railroading!!) and got no power to the track. I then tried taking away some of the ballast near the contacts, but I still couldn’t get it to run. I feel embarrassed asking for help because I’ve probably made a stupid mistake somewhere along the line, but I’m stuck and don’t know what to try from here. Please help.”