Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
What Paper For Cardboard Buildings?
Dave asks readers:
“I see advertisements for printable structures here and elsewhere but they always seem to come from England. I live in USA and can’t seem to find the paper sizes and thicknesses necessary to complete them. Legal paper can substitute for A4, but not the referenced card stock. Anyone have ideas on how to get around this problem?”
Robert comments… Dave, the buildings advertised on this site are designed in Australia and are based on buildings from the USA, Canada, UK, Australia, New Zealand, and other countries. They are designed to international paper size A4 which is very similar in size to US letter paper. It is very easy to adjust the printing size on a home printer if needed. Most people use ordinary home printing paper, however you can substitute other paper or card stocks if preferred. There are no hard and fast rules… it really comes down to personal preference.
9 Responses to What Paper For Cardboard Buildings?
Leave a Reply
SUBMIT YOUR QUESTION
Download Your Free Catalog
Use Tiny Railroad Micro Controllers
Model Train Help Ebook
You might be overthinking it Dave. I glue designs like these to regular card from the kitchen pantry. I don’t buy card. They turnout good!
I use card and ordinary copy paper. Sometimes I reinforce walls with more card, but not always. Some on my railway are about 8 years old now and still look the same.
I agree with Frederick I don’t bother with fancy card. The free stuff works for me.
I built the US mining town from this site with core flute and balsa. Looks awesome!!!!
I have access to our local picture framer for off cut card that is used to mount photo’s etc. this comes in a range of sizes and color But this doesn’t matter as I print out the building on ordinary copy paper and spray it with a silicone sealer to make it color fast then I glue it to the card and cut out with a very sharp craft knife and use a steel ruler to make sure the cuts are straight before assembly.
Empty cereal boxes.
Thanks for the comments. I guess I was over thinking it by a lot. I saved cereal boxes and have heavier grade copy paper but was concerned when it stated 1 mil (I think it was – the heaviest type) and that is no where to be found using the metric measurements so I guess I was really looking for reassurance that just doing the best I could would result in it looking good. I have downloaded several buildings and even printed some but wanted it to look good and never completed the project. Now I will!
Cereal boxes are great. I have had problems sometimes when the glue would not hold on the painted side of a box. Just use some sandpaper on it if it happens and then it sticks great. I’ve also just used card stock I bought for the printer and didn’t glue any cardboard to them at all. That works too!
It depends on how high a quality you want. Cereal packet card is fine. I laminate it (glue it together like ply wood) and try and get the “grain” running both up and on one piece and left to right on its mate (again, just like plywood). I use standard PVA (woodworking) glue, photo-mount in aerosols and Bostich stick glues. I’ve even used wallpaper paste. Their are no esoteric secrets.
For larger buildings in 00 or H0, and “downloadables” 1mm and 2mm thick card is called for. This is readily available in art supply shops, Staples and Office Works bu cutting window and door openings is hard on the wrist and very hard on blades.
Before styrene and other plastic cards paper based card or cardboard was all that was available, and I am sure my modelling would not be as good today if I hadn’t cut my teeth on good old Cornflakes packets.
We are encouraged to use the plastic products, and are sometimes looked down upon by the “Plastic Nazis”, but card is still the cheapest and easiest medium to use for buildings and some forms of rolling stock.
Go cardboard!!!!!