robert says:

For Tri-ang and Hornby, this site will have them http://www.melbournemodelraceway.com.au/trains.html
Robert

Newman Atkinson says:

Dave If you are attaching your track to the bridge frame Goo Glue is a good one. But anymore I am using APEX caulk to lay all my track. Get the clear it goes on white and drys clear. Get it at Menards back in caulking If you make a mistake you can use a thin putty knife and scrape it right off and reset it as you need. I even use it to put down my cork roadbed. a thin coat works wonders. If your board is a little uneven lay the track with the caulk and set a flat span of something and it will only press down to the level of your spread bar. If you are nailing it like I used to it will pull your track down to the board where ever that may be. No more nails for me Works real good mounting to styrofoam like those risers from woodland scenic it is cheep (about 2 dollars a tube) and goes a long way. a thin film on your bridge frame and your track will hold real well. Plastic or wood glue will give way at some point and carpenters glue is unforgiving. APEX Caulk will hold to styrofoam, preformed mountainous plastic layouts and just add track. It is the only thing I use now and it will hold till you scrape it off. If you make a mistake just scrape it up with a putty knife and same with the roadbed and shift it where you need to go. A thin film will go a long way unless you need it to fill a gap because the board is unlevel. works great One other glue that is real good but is almost permanent is SINBAD Glue. They sell it at train fest in Milwaukee. Real good even holds that plate together that you broke when the Wife was not looking. It is better than super glue.without that smell tingling your nose. But like I said setting track and roadbed all I ever use now is APEX house caulk. 20 minutes and you are moving down the line laying more track. holds to plastic and wood also. Hope this helps from Newman