Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Decoders, as most electronic circuits, last a long long time if operated at the manufacture’s specified conditions. One very important factor is the temperature in which it operates. Heat kills electronics. That’s why computer rooms are so cold and that’s why the TV mounted above the fireplace dies in a short time. In your case, there could’ve been an accidental short (happened to me, ouch!), the load was too high on the decoder, causing it to heat up over time or the way it’s mounted is not according to Digitrax recommendations. If they say, do not use electric or any type of tape to wrap this thing, they mean it. It traps the heat.
Clifford, have you tried resetting CV 8 to 8? That does a factory reset. I have found sometimes when I have used a loco in a consist, and thereafter run it as a single loco, the decoder does not respond as it still thinks it is in the consist, then I have to reset the decoder. This means it will respond to address 3, and have to be programmed with your values. JMRI makes this very easy.
How old is it? Did you try contacting Digitrax? When you say it died, did it smoke? Did it make noise?
You didn’t state exactly how it died, if it was new install, and died, it could have been an installation error. The motor must always been isolated from the chassis, that itself could cause damage. Also, if you overloaded it with a motor that drew too much current, or you set up the lights with bulbs that drew too much current, that would also cause damage. However, in my experience with damaged decoders, I have found that inside of the decoder, the input bridge rectifier diodes get shorted out. You can remove the plastic coating from the decoder, and using a Digital Multi meter, check the 4 diodes. They are right where the input power lined come into the decoder. I have found and replaced shorted rectifier diodes, and repaired many shorted decoders. You will need to find tiny surface mount 1N4001 diodes, I believe those are good 1 amp each. It’s not easy, but with much skill and carefulness, you may be able to do it. If not, you can send those back and they wil fix them for you for a fee.