Troubleshooting
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Barry models in N scale and has this question for readers:
“Hi, I hope some one can help. Up till yesterday my track was running without any problems. After giving the track its weekly clean l found that the train run perfectly well until coming to one set of points it then stops dead. The trains run perfectly well ether side of the points. HELP PLEASE.”
Benj sent in this question:
“I want to alter the wheel gauge on my O-Scale 2-track truck. The wheels are actually too close together. Do any of your blog people know what to do?”
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Daniel asks:
“I am trying to run two lines into a O scale Lionel Train Station Co. I guess out of a switch, I can’t get one of the lines in parallel with the other one. How do I modify track to make the curve coming out of the switch? Can the track be adjusted by loosening the metal ties?”
Paul posted this question:
“I am having trouble getting my N scale Atlas switch tracks to work. I have tried all different wiring configurations. They will throw in one direction and when I try the other direction, all I get is a hum from the switching machine mounted on the track. The hum tells me they are getting current but nothing happens. If it were only one track, I would chalk it up to a defect in that track, but it is all of them (8). Very frustrating. Hope you can help. Thanks.”
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Wolfgang posted this question:
“Hello Friends, this afternoon my N scale Walthers cornerstone turntable stopped working. Instead of Power Control LED shows ‘on’ the bridge doesn’t work. What can I do? Thanks for any helpful ideas. I am living in Germany and maintenance by a hobby shop is not easy to get.”
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Online Train Club member Joshua is not a Dentist but asks:
“I know when I go to the dentist he tells be to floss between the gaps in my teeth. He doesn’t seem to want to close the gaps, whereas on my railroad that’s precisely what I want to do. I want to leave tiny gaps 1/32th between track to allow for movement, but I have 4 gaps closer to 1/16th. How can I fill these or should I make an appointment with my Dentist? Ha! Ha!”
Online Model Train Club member Erik shared this suggestion:
“I know some folk in the hobby use masking tape to hold small screws and parts to stop them rolling under the layout and getting lost. It is a very good idea, but I have another option to add to that.
My local hardware store sells small 5″ bowls with a magnet attached. One of these bowl is ideal for holding small steel parts.”
William posted this question to readers:
“I have On30 and M.E. track and turnouts and DCC Cab Controller. I would like to install an automated reverse loop (does not to be that big as I will be running Porters with a few mining cars.)
I am electronically “challenged” and could use advice on what all I would need to set it up. I am in the planning stage now but I would like to know how to wire the turnout and loop section up front to see how feasible my idea is to have trains running on a continual basis in and out of the loop without needing to be manually operated. Is a module AR1 or the like all that is needed or do I need some type of ‘block’ detection? And are Digitrax and MRC cab controllers compatible as far as these loop modules concerned?”
Don has this question for readers:
“Until now I have been totally DC, but thought I might test the waters with DCC. I recently purchased a Bachmann GP9 DCC locomotive and am running it in DC mode.
I’m just now sure how DCC systems get connected to the track. Are they connected the with two wires like on DC? And, if at any time I want to disconnect the DCC system and reconnect my DC transformer so I can operate my older my DC locomotives, can I do that? Depending on how I get on I might look at converting a couple of my older DC engines as I understand that’s possible?”
Oscaler Jack asks:
“I need to add electrical pickup for both rails on a 2-Rail O-Scale power truck (and non-powered truck) and can’t seem to find available sources. I have been using phosphor bronze wire that I’ve jury-rigged for this problem but want a better solution.”
HO hobbyist Ed asks readers:
“Is it possible to doubleheader a Marklin loco?”
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Jim R models OO gauge and posted this question:
“I am about to install Kato Unitrack and am confused with what distance to put the feeders apart? I read every 6 track lengths on one webpage, and then read of another guy who ran power drops every 6 foot, and of some else who had 10 foot of track with a single feeder. I don’t know what to believe.”
Online Train Club Member Tom posted this question:
“Two weeks ago I unpacked my new Bachmann loco and ran it over several days for nearly 25 hours give or take. The loco wheels and pickups are already very dirty despite cleaning the track several times. How often should I clean the track, axles and pickups? I’m running DCC.”
“I am running 00 gauge and wondered is there any adverse effect running double headed engines?”
Online Train Club member Erik has this question for fellow hobbyists:
“I want to clean some old oxidized track as I want be solder droppers on various part of the track. I had a go scrubbing it using a small stiff wire brush with borax powder and some sugar soap. I’ve only done a couple of pieces as it is such a slow job. Is there a easier and better way to bring the shine back? I thought about using a fiber glass pencil, but I think it would be messy and will wear away to fast. I thought someone might know of a ‘secret solution’ of chemicals I could use to make the task easier?”
Add your comment below if you can assist Erik.
Rusty asks:
“Does anyone know where I might get my two Lionel engines repaired? I have 2 that won´t run. One is an 0-4-0 Switcher (die cast) and the other one is a 2-4-2 (plastic) Columbia. I have taken both apart and touched both sides of the armature cover and it tries to move. Both armatures spin when I roll the engine, so they´re not frozen up. HELP!”
Samuel asks readers:
“Does one of your blog followers know a way to add weight to my 2 Ho locos to increase their pulling power? Also how to distribute the weight over the wheelbase?”
John has a couple of questions for blog readers:
“I have a 4-8-8-4 loco with a 4-10 tender and the only name is made in Italy. I place this N scale loco on a flat track and it doesn’t get under way but just sits there and spins. All other locos get around with no problem.
Also, does anyone know of a repair shop for Trix locos? I consulted the repair shops from a rail mag and many of the shop are no longer in business. ”
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