Troubleshooting
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Marion sent in this question:
“My husband gifted me with a wonderful BLI HO loco that won’t stay on the track. Our other locos have no problem. Others, who have the same loco, are having no problem, apparently. We have adjusted track, etc., and still have the problem. Some of the wheels are really small, but, again, others don’t seem to be having the problem. HELP!”
Wayne posted this question to readers:
“I have several steam locos in both N and HO gauge and they run poorly forward but run MUCH BETTER backwards. Any Ideas, cause or cures? Thank you.”
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John asks readers:
“I have installed one trestle at the junction of each track. When I run the trains they hit the upright portion of the trestle that sticks above the track. Any suggestions?”
Tom is into HO scale and asks this question:
“I bought an MRC booster to attach to my expanding railroad. It does not seem work. How can I test it to see if my connections or throttle are bad?”
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Jim has this question for others in the hobby:
“I just got into HO trains, My late brother’s set is now mine. He has a lot of different track, and trains. I want to put his set back together but some of this track is in bad shape, he had Atlas, Power loc, and Bachmann and it does not fit together. Is there any adapters to make this work? Which brand is best for a beginner? Should I just buy all new track? If so which?”
Online Train Club Member Stanley models HO and asks readers:
“I enjoy running trains of about 40 to 45 cars long. I weight them to the recommended NMRA standards, or heavier. When I build super-elevated curves would they cause any problems with the long trains I like running? I’ll be keeping my gradients to 2 percent or less.”
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Phillip sent in this piece of advice to share –
I read sometime back that someone used automatic transmission fluid to clean their tracks. Well, after problems with power connectivity after cleaning with the rail cleaning rubber and/or metho, I tried the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) that I had in the shed. I rigged up a track cleaning wagon with cut to size pieces of sponge touching the track with the ATF on it and cleaned my whole dual track layout and my diesels/locos run perfectly now. My 4.5 x 1.7m OO layout is in the garage with no ceiling and any dust does not affect the track as yet.
Club member Marcus J models N scale and poses this question for readers:
“My Peco switches is causing me problems with trains stopping at times when they seem to short out. I fix it by slightly moving the throwbar on the switch to get the train running. It happens intermittently, so it’s not a constant problem but annoying enough to know I need the problem solved permanently. I’m sure someone out there will know what to do. Thanks in advance.”
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“I have a problem with a slow section of track. I have a very powerful transformer, but about a 6 inch section of track the train slows or stalls. I have checked the track, put on an extra transformer, no help. I tried running power to that section of track, but no change. I put the transformer on the curve, still no change. I am at my wits end. Please help if you can. Thanks, Jim”
Here is a question from Ron who is new to HO trains:
“I’m totally brand new to HO modeling … after sorting about 6 locomotives and about 40 misc cars (that I bought at a garage sale), I realized several need wheels and/or couplers … I see that all couplers are not the same … do you advise changing all of them so they are compatible … also how do you change the dang things! (I’ve tried) … thank you”
George who is new to model railroading has this question:
“I am very new to the model train world and I’m hoping you can help me out. I recently purchased the HO Bachmann Echo Valley Express with Digital Sound (HO Scale). I now purchased 22 radius track to add a second oval. I also purchased a left and right #6 Remote Crossover Turnout. There is a note on the instructions for it that says: All analog turnouts (non-DCC) require 16V AC or DC accessory power supply for operation. Where do I buy this additional power source? Do I need more than one? And how do I set them all up? Any help would be very appreciative. Thanks!”
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William is hoping someone can advise him with his HO problem:
“I have a 19 degree Atlas crossing. My engines hesitate and some even just stop. How do I resolve this issue? It is getting frustrating.”
Wayne asks readers:
“I am starting a small HO logging railroad, of the 1920’s-40’s era. The first section will be the sawmill and accompanying trackage, along with the engine house/yard area. I am planning on using 1/2″ plywood and then covering the flat and the slightly inclined portions with 1/2″ homosote. Do I actually need a typical style of raised roadbed, or is just the flat homosote OK? From pictures in books I have looked at, these areas seem pretty flat if there is even a raised roadbed underneath. Thanks.”
Steve sent in this question:
“Hello, I just purchased an atlas HO layout: senior twice around HO 5″. Is there a step by step diagram on how to wire this set up my grandson and I are getting frustrated?”
Maybe Steve could add some more detail to help readers who want to provide a quality answer.
Nigel W posted this question for readers:
“I was gluing my ’00’ Gauge-1:76 Scale railway tracks down on my ‘Woodland Scenics-underlay’ In the mean while, getting glue and other debris on the rails. I would like anyone to advise me on the best way of cleaning the rails!
I was told to use a sharp knife to scrape the glue off, and then use {Isopropy-Alcohol} / also was told to use a sandpaper by someone else. Please can you let me know, what is the best way?”
Gopal from India models N scale and has this question:
“I hope someone can help me in getting AUTO REVERSING/FORWARD module with a pause of few seconds for my ROCO N scale train outlay. Please help. Thanks”
Bill sent in these thoughts to share:
I find that derailments can happen if cars are not properly weighted to NMRA standards. For example, if you have an underweight car between properly or overweight cars on either side and a dirty section of track causes the pulling and or pushing locomotive to stop and lunge and thus the varying momentum of rolling stock, caused by this weight issue, can result in derailment.
Long standard gauge coaches running on a layout built for mountain climbing tight radius “Mine” trains with relatively short rolling stock can cause derailments.
Improper truck adjustment. From my experiences both trucks should swivel with one having less play than the other. Failure to maintain these and you are inviting problems.
Proper height adjustment of couplers. Again I am reminded of problems I have had with coupler “pins” catching on turnout points, resulting in….derailments.
The reason I know about all these issues is because I have at one time or another, ran into these issues. So I mention them from first hand experience and am still learning from my mistakes.
I have also found that even after all my learning mistakes, I am still not done.
I am reminded now about several Labelle boxcars (which are constructed of basswood without any weight to them), that I had built to NMRA standards, gluing weights from end to end and right down the center of the wood floors. Initially they all ran great and then I started having derailment problems. After several attempts of trying to duplicate the issue, it came down to one particular car. Intermittently the weights were sliding off to one side around certain curved track sections causing the car to lean to one side, pulling the trucks and couplers up and down causing an imbalance and derailments. Point being, unless I wanted to park this guy at the end of the line forever, I would have to “Open a door” and carefully try and re-glue the weight in proper position. (not a lot of fun for those of us that tediously build these cars!)
Maintenance, maintenance, seasonal or periodic maintenance of locomotives, rolling stock, track and all other components of a layout including sight check of trees (growing) to the point that they can derail locos and or rolling stock, and testing of all electronics, DC or DCC is a never ending must!
I am sure I am missing other potential derailment causes…would enjoy others’ thoughts on the subject!
Adrian who models with HO trains asks readers:
“First of all thank you for adding me to the group. I am very much a Newbie and have purchased a Fleischmann DCC starter set which I have extended. I have a number of Fleischmann wagons and some Bachmann and Athern wagons which I purchased off ebay. I have a problem with the Bachmann and Athern wagons derailing on the points, The Fleischmann rolls through nicely. After comparing what maybe different I found the wheel diameter to be smaller and flange to be less on the Bachmann and Athern wagons. I think this may be the root cause? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.”
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