Troubleshooting
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Bud models HO and posted this:
“My train components crossing a crossover are diverted to the second track after the engine and some cars have crossed OK. Even though the crossover looks OK to the eye I still have an obvious problem. Any thoughts?”
Andrew models in N scale and writes:
“If I want to change my current Kato DC layout to DCC and use a Bachmann E-Z controller but still use the Kato point switches, how do I power them and what do I need to do?”
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Frank asks:
“I have several HO engines that have been in storage for a number of years and now will not run. Are there any recommendations as to how to clean or lubricate them and is there information explaining cleaning and maintenance issues?”
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Ed models HO scale and asks readers:
“Can anybody tell me where or how to get a manual for a signal pilot to control railroad crossing lights? The one I have is in German and I don’t read German. I need all the info that I can get.”
Paul models HO and asks:
“I am still building my 5 module layout and plan to use electrical block detection in the future. I will run DCC NCE and operate a complete loop with an isolated section for each module as well as a siding. I want to include lights to indicate if the track is occupied or not. I would appreciate any thoughts on what I’ll need to make all this happen. Thank you in advance.”
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Jamie is into N scale and posted this question:
“Is there a decoder that can regulate the speed of a loco in a consist? I only have two engines… an Atlas and a Kato… but the speeds don’t match well. I don’t want to risk damaging them. Any suggestions?”
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Lester has this question:
“I decided to build a retaining wall on a longish section of my layout and want to use the right adhesive. I imagine it will need some clamping to the wood while it dries in place, but I am concerned that contact cement might grip too quickly and not allow enough time for me to adjust and check the positioning. By the way, I thought foamboard might be the best and cheapest material to use for making the wall. I would be interested to hear any ideas. Thanks.”
Newbie to the hobby Peter has started with HO scale and asks:
“I just got an Amtrak Genesis P42 loco. I run it on address 03 all good. The loco address on the engine is 77. My question is, do I program it with address 2? Or, should I set it as 0077 using the? Kindly a newbie. Thanks.”
Jeff models G scale and has this question:
“Hi all – I need to change the lights in my old G Scale Pennsylvania Coach #6000. There are no screws anywhere. I think I need to pull the roof off but I can’t get it out of the body. Any help would be great. Thanks a bunch.”
“I just connected a Digitrax DT602 (not duplex) with no batteries. As per manual on page 4 item 6: press power key and soft key A in order to toggle track power, LED indicator on command module, on and off. This doesn’t happen. Please provide any info if I am doing anything wrong. Thank you.”
Peter T models in HO and asks:
“I am presently using the Digitrax DCS52 controller and would like to add a Digitrax UT6 utility throttle via the loco net of the DCS52. The question is: does the address of the UT6 have to be changed so that it is different than the DCS52? And, how do you do that? Thanks for any assistance.”
Rudy asks:
“I’m planning to buy a newly released HO Roco Steam Engine with a 5 pole motor but no flywheel. Can I count on it running slow and smoothly, with realistic starts and stops with no jerking motion without a flywheel? All thoughts would be helpful.”
Lester sent in this question:
“I bought a Bachmann engine that must be more than 30 years old and tried it out on my basic oval test track which has a straight piece on each side. It runs ok on the curves but is starts to stall on the straights. My voltmeter showed no power loss. I then cleaned the track, but it still runs ok on the curves and slows a stall on the straights. It baffles me. Any thoughts?”
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Wayne asks this question:
“I acquired an Athearn Iron Horse HO starter train set which I understand is DCC ready but I haven’t got a decoder yet. When I use the dial to start the loco there is some sound but it doesn’t move until the dial hits 25. Is this to be expected or is there a power distribution issue? I have no problems with it because it is taking off smoothly.”
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Ross writes:
“I plan around 24 switches and want to know the best system or order to number or letter them.”
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Rick B asks:
“I am at a LOSS as to how to replace (swap out) new trucks for my HO Like Like, Proto 2000 locomotive. I bought it on the web, and the trucks were totally dissembled. The gent at Walthers sent me some replacements, but the instructions he gave me, ….well clear as mud. Help wanted.”
Geoff writes:
“My scale is 009 – UK version of HO narrow gauge and my question, for those of you using DCC, do you have a circuit breaker or other sort of overload protection for the program track?
I’m thinking it would be a good idea because the command station is putting out full power until you select program mode, and I understand you are supposed to have the engine on the track when you switch the power on. Also, I’m planning on converting some DC chassis and it’s possible I could wire something up wrong!”
John writes:
“I have HO, DC only and I just added a new Alco C-628 from Bowser. Beautiful engine, ran perfect for 2 days, but then all of a sudden I lost forward mode, lights function in front only when in reverse, no lights in front. Still ran perfect in reverse. Next day, reverse worked again, but now, only the back lights work, and no front lights at all. I noticed that the motor felt warm, and possible slight odor. Could this be an out of the box lubrication issue? Operation is still smooth in forward and reverse, not warm, no odor, but no lights in front. Appreciate any insight.”