Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
If painting brass or other metals, I use Scale Coat’s or Floquil (no longer produced) primer then bake at 175 degrees for 30 min. On plastic and resin I use a flat white or flat gull gray as primer. I have found that these two colors are compatible with UP’s and SF’ stainless.
There are a number of primer paints available from the likes of Humbrol (No. 1), Precision Paints and Alclad. With the exception of Alclad, the other two I mentioned are enamel based and need to be thinned for airbrush use. I often use a Matt white or light grey as Phil suggested which works well, just leave for 48 hours to ensure the paint has fully cured before you spray the next colour.
If you are redoing a locomotive, I can’t help. But if you are doing styrene or wood building, most model builders use shake-the-can primer, avail. from any hardware or big box store. Stay 1 to 1.5 feet from the structure, so that only a mist strikes the structure. Don’t lay it on too heavily
Mel,
There are a number of primers you can use in your airbrush. I try to use acrylic paints and primers wherever I can. They are much easier on the environment and you when cleaning up. As for primers I use Vallejo Surface Primer. It comes in various colours so you can prime a piece with a colour that will not show through your finish coat. I have used it successfully on brass, wood and plastic. I use it under all types of paint.