If you model in N gauge you might like to have a go at answering the question from a fellow enthusiast.

“Could one of your readers please help me, by telling me what the smallest radius I could expect to have on a small N gauge layout to fit in either a box case or coffee table. I thought approx 2ft x 3ft max. I would like a figure of eight, or circle with extend loop on one end. Hoping one of your readers can help me.”

Submit your answer by clicking on the comments tag below.

A little known fact is that many railroad steam locomotives consisted of engines that used gears together with steam cylinders (common on all steam locomotives) to produce more “constant” pulling power than the conventional and more prevalent “rod” type of steam locomotive.

The most common geared locomotives were Shays, Climaxes, and Heislers. These were manufactured by different companies with different means of getting geared power to their drivers.

The geared locomotives were the “4 wheel drive” versions of the “rod” locomotives. The geared locomotives were lighter, smaller, and had geared transmissions to provide steady, constant power to all wheels (or drivers).

The geared locomotives were designed to climb steep grades (in excess of 10%), operate on lighter, smaller rail (for economy) and on rail that was often crooked and poorly maintained (also for economy purposes).

The locomotives were mainly used in the lumber and mining industries. The rails were laid to the timber or minerals to provide a practical and economical means to transport these commodities out of their locations and to the mills for processing.

Can anyone offer some suggestions to this reader please…

“Where can ‘G’ gauge rail (just the rail…….not track sections) be purchased.The room will need 50′ of track around the ceiling and I am building theroadbedof 1/2″ oak railroad ties and want to lay rail down on the oak ties.”

Simply click on the comments tag below to answer the question.

Another problem faced by model railroaders is when a locomotive frequently stops or slows down in the same spot on the track.

This usually indicates a track problem.

In this case thoroughly the clean section of track. Check for “dead spots”, a bad track connector, or it could even be glue or debris from scenery disrupting the power flow.

If problem persists it could be an indication that the track may be too large for the size of power pack/transformer.

A more powerful transformer/power pack may be required if the problem section is at the opposite end of layout from transformer/power pack. The alternative is to use less track or run a second set of wires from the transformer/power pack to the problem section.

IMPORTANT: when running two sets of wires DO NOT CROSS WIRES. Label or color code wires so that each rail is linked to only ONE post on your transformer/power pack.

Stu has this question for readers:

I’m starting to a build a second HO layout (15×16). First one was completed 20 years ago. Things have sure changed. I plan to use code 83 track & DCC. Question 1. Is one brand of track better than another? Question 2. Where can I find an honest comparison of the different DCC equipment available?
Thanx
Stu

Here is another question for readers to get their teeth into. This question is from Peter who models in N scale.

“I’m reading your eBook on model railroading. Already I’ve picked up some good tips. Here’s my question.”

“I’m building a new railroad in N scale. Modeled after the Santa Fe. This time I’m using Kato unitrack. I read somewhere that you can attach the track to the table by using a dollop of white glue on each of the two “posts” on the bottom side of the track. Seems reasonable until you consider you have to apply the glue to every section of track at the same time. I’m wondering if there’s a better way. Such as drilling out the holes in these two posts and then using screws or tacks. Do you know anyone who has tackled this problem? How did they do it? Thanks.”

It does not matter what kind of model train track you use (flexible track or standard track) – it is entirely up to you. You can even use both kinds together. Most model railroad enthusiasts have their preference. Flexible track is more work to set up, but the extra time has the benefit of less joins. The curves can be more realistic too. Depending on where you live, flexible track is usually cheaper than the equivalent length of set track.

In the words of Ken Smith “I wanted a backwoods Class A Climax for use as a MOW engine on my Tall Timber Railroad. I also wanted this loco to look like she was nearing the end of her useful life. Finally, I wanted to be able to build a loco without a huge investment like some of the brass counterparts available in On30.”

An excellent article at The Gauge will show you how you can convert an Athearn SW 7 into an On30 Class A Climax. This is a very simple conversion that one with basic skills can accomplish. You need only simple tools and glue, nothing else. Check out this model railroading article at http://www.the-gauge.com/

When using flexi track on a model train set layout, it is important to remember that if you make the bend too tight in your layout you’ll need to use shorter trains, otherwise your trains will be prone to derailment.

Flexible track also enables you to go into a curve more gently and make the train track fit your model train layout without the constraints of fixed track sections.

Flexible track (often referred to as flex track or flexi track), as its name implies, can be bent to any shape you want. Model railroaders can usually purchase it in three-foot lengths.

Flexible train track has the advantage of being bendable which opens up new options when planning a model train set layout.

Flexible track can be curved or laid straight or any combination you wish. With flexible train track there are usually fewer connections to worry about.

Flexible train track does however need to be nailed down to a board and the rails need to be trimmed to length as you bend the model train track.

When laying ‘loose’ track ballast, be very careful while distributing it around point blades. Also, when laying ‘loose’ track ballast never run the trains until the glue has fully dried and the track has been vacuum cleaned to ensure no loose track ballast remains.

For rail yards you may want to use a finer grade of track ballast to give the impression of more lightly laid lines, while on the mainline you might want more coarse track ballast.

Quick Model Train Tip:

Ballasted track adds more scenic realism to a model train set layout. However, you need to make sure that the electrics are all sorted out and that all the rail joiners are tight fitting before you start ballasting. Otherwise you may find that after you have ballasted your track, some sections of model train track wont work properly.

Roadbed track has the advantage of having a reasonably realistic appearance without the mess involved in adding loose ballast and then having to glue it. The disadvantage is that roadbed track is more expensive than standard track. Another drawback is that the various makes of roadbed track are not always compatible with each other. Also, you are limited by the modular set track nature of the roadbed pieces.

Roadbed tracks are particularly good on temporary model train layouts because they are generally more stable. If you intend to set up a model train set on the floor (not recommended), then roadbed track is the better option because it is slightly raised up. If standard train track is put on the floor, especially on carpet, then no matter how clean you think it is, grit, hairs, fluff, cotton and things you never knew were on the floor will get inside and ruin the mechanism.

Whether you choose standard train track or roadbed track is over to you and your personal preference. It also depends on the nature of your model train set layout and what looks best, works best and what fits with your budget requirements.

When using standard tracks on a model train set layout, seperate ballast is laid. Whereas, the plastic roadbed sections look like real railroad ballast and feature interlocking tabs that help hold the train track sections securely in place.