Terry’s question for fellow model railroaders is:

“I have been a keen observer of model train exhibits for many years and have finally decided to give it a go. I was given some brass track and wondered if I could mix brass track with nickel silver track? Thanks.”

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Russell asks readers:

“My trains (HO) run pretty good but wobble a bit in places. They don’t stall much. I have rubbed the track gently with very fine grade sand paper and I think this has helped. A mate of mine here in Australia said I would be better off using rubbing alcohol. Now I don’t know what to do? Should I try both, or just stick with what seems to work already?”

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Super-elevation on real railroads is when the outer rail of the track is elevated so as to compensate the centrifugal forces that happen when a train passes through a curve at speed. Sound complicated? Let me explain it another way.

Super elevation is basically the difference in elevation (height) between the two edges of railway track (or a road). It is normally seen where the railroad (or road) has a curve; raising the outer rail (or the outer edge of the road) to provide a banked turn. This allows a train (or vehicle on a road) to traverse the curve at a higher speed than would otherwise be possible.

Having such a system neutralizes the effect of lateral force. It provides better load distribution on the two rails and reduces wear and tear of rails and rolling stock. In addition it provides smooth running of trains (and more comfort for passengers), and if designed and operated correctly, should result in fewer derailments.

However, excessive elevation in curves can increase the risk of derailment. When running significantly under balance speed, or operating on over-elevated curves, a significant portion of the vertical weight of the car is transferred to the low rail. The wheels can lift off the higher rail.

The following diagram provides a good perspective on the process of super elevation on a real railroad. Super-elevation should happen gradually as the train proceeds over the length of the track entering the curve (entry easement). Maximum super elevation would be reached when the train is into the curve. The train would then ease back down to level as it comes out of the curve and proceeds along the length of track exiting the curve (exit easement). Following this process, the train is able to stay at speed whilst navigating the entire curve.

A smooth transition from a tangent to curve

That’s how the system works in the real world, so modeling the same process on a model railroad makes sense as it will add impressive realism to train operations.

Unfortunately it is something that is often over-looked at the planning stage, or put in the “too hard basket” during construction. Fact is; the process is not that difficult.

The way most hobbyists tackle it is to use strips of basswood, or something similar, and lay a series of splines along the outer curve edge. Sanding the transition into the super elevation can be somewhat time-consuming, so the following should help to simplify the process.

Erin D asks readers:

“I am new to soldering and wondered why my solder finish is kinda dull and even a bit grainy in appearance. Is that how it should be or am I doing something wrong?”

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Should I use Code 75 or Code 100 Rails

Jacob from Ispwich in the UK wants to know:

“I am planning for OO gauge which I read is like HO overseas and want to know if I should go for code 100 or perhaps code 75 rails? Not sure?”

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John asks:

“Hi, Will an N gauge Kato double track girder bridge successfully mate to Atlas Code 80 track? Will I need to make any modifications to either bridge or track? Any help appreciated.”