Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Ballasting Track – Excellent Tips To Execute A Perfect Job
Use an eye dropper to achieve more accuracy and avoid damaging other parts of your railroad.
Ballasting Track can be quite tricky and it takes at most patience and effort to get it looking right. Ballast is laid between the tracks and sometimes on the sidings of the sleepers such that one can in a realistic effect there are different techniques for laying down Ballasting Track.
If you are using cork it is important that you stand the edges of the slope first so that the smaller stones will obey better. Use almost 70% isopropyl alcohol spray as the wetting agent instead of plain water.
With the help of an eyedropper you can do a better job and avoid spraying on the scenery. To soak the Ballasting components use a mixture of white glue and alcohol in 50-50 proportion. These tips will help you do your job perfectly.
You’ll get a more detailed guide to step by step ballasting in the members area at the online Model Train Club.
Model Train Track Codes – Know The Exact Specification Of Your Prototype
Code 100 track
Each model train track comes with various codes or sizes for each scale. These codes are identified with numbers which translate into the height of the rail track in inches. For example: Code 100 – gives you 0.1 inch height and 156lb rail. In the same way, Code 83 – gives you 0.083 inch height and 132 lb. rail.
When it comes to creating a prototype track, the main lines are made with heavier rails and the branches or deviations are made with lighter rails. The roadbed and the space between ties of these codes vary as well. For example if the mainline needs 24 ties/39 foot rails, it comes down to 11 1/2 inches between each tie. With this in mind, use heavy code rail for the mainline and smaller code for the sidings.
Blog Now More User Friendly – Thanks For Your Feedback!
We recently ran a reader poll asking “Do you know how to add a comment (or answer) to a posting on this blog?”
We were staggered with the results. Despite our techies insisting the method for posting comments was easy to use, a massive 63% of readers disagreed and said they didn’t know how to post a comment on the blog. Shock! Horror! We had no idea there was such a problem.
The New Easy Way To Post Comments
To fix things we now include two links directly UNDER EACH POSTING where readers can post a comment or ask other readers a question. The links appear under EVERY posting so they are easy to find. Obviously to keep the quality of posting high (and to avoid unwanted spam comments), all comment need to be reviewed and approved by the blog moderator. This is a quick process and most comments will be live within a few minutes or few hours.
So, there is no excuse for not having your say and getting involved in the discussions on this model train blog. It is now really easy to have your say and share your ideas.
Model Railroad Bridge Installation, Bridge Abutments, Pier Foundations
Tom has a question for readers:
“I need help on installation of N scale bridges. I specifically require help on preparing the roadbed, bridge abutments, and pier foundation. I recently completed a Pratt Truss Bridge kit, and two deck bridges. Can someone advise please?”
To guide Tom, please add your comment here on this posting.
Getting Started In DCC
Ed has a question for readers:
“I am looking for some help in choosing a power pack to start my model railroad. I have seen all of the features and eventually want to go to DCC and hand held but not now. So can someone suggest a reasonably priced power pack that will allow growth?”
To post your question use the link in the right hand column. To comment on this posting, click on the link in this posting.
A Haunted House For Your Model Trains
John has very kindly contributed this article to help others in the hobby…
Halloween is almost here, and there’s no better time to add an old/haunted house to your train layout. What’s better, you can do so at little cost, and even use materials that can be found outside, such as broken-off tree branches, weeds, moss, etc.
I used an N-Scale Model Power built-up Haunted House shown in the photo. The house itself comes a bit off-kilter, making it perfect for this purpose, though the exterior is a cream color with green shutters and a black roof. To weather the bright colors I used some black paint cut with a small amount of water, and blackened the exterior of the house to simulate dirt, grime, and overall wear, making it look like it should be torn down and rebuilt. The fall colors are in season, and Woodland Scenics trees are great for this, as well as fallen branches.
You can add a lot of detail if you work in the larger scales like HO or O. Put in broken windows, leaves, doors off their hinges, and ghosts, bats, and various beasties that go bump in the night. But the main purpose is that a modeler can use any house for this if you “beat it up” and make it look misused and run-down.
By putting a haunted house on your layout, it’s certain that a slow-moving freight train will go a lot faster as it passes the house, not sure of who (or What) lives inside!
Click the link if you would like to add a comment to John’s posting.
Model Railroad Layout Foundation
Ted would like to hear feedback from others in the hobby on the idea he is working on:
“To make my layout easy to move if required I know that the board has to have tensional strength. Plywood the standard is heavy and too flexible without diagonal bracing which adds even more weight. So I intend to use internal blank doors. They are available in different heights and width. However the primary size would be standard height and 36″ wide. Light and inflexible. Using 3/8″ dowels I can attach then accurately and clamp them using old furniture draw clamps, terminate wire harnesses at the joints as well. Using foam and or cork I can vary the height and it’s easy to attach raised decks.
I am so into this concept I may be blind to negative implications so am looking for comments. Can’t hurt my feelings so be blunt as it will help.”
Click to add your comment to Ted’s posting.
Train Carriage Lighting Using LED lights
Stuart has a question for reader:
“I recently installed carriage lighting using led strips which work perfect until train moves when they flicked which spoils the effect. I use a DCC system, rails are clean and new wheels and pickup have been used. Any idea from your readers on how to overcome this problem, thanks in advance.”
Click the link to add your answer or comment.
Programming a Track for DCC
DCC or Digital Command Control sends signals to the locomotives through the rails. Multiple locomotives are independently controlled within the same block. Train operation depends on the decoder installed in each block. Programming is done to allow users to set the decoders address.
A programming track can be implemented in two ways. Program the track onto your workbench or build it into your layout. The former approach allows simple control and testing facilities. The latter approach incorporates the track into the layout and is easily moveable. It also allows programming a dead zone for track protection. For more information on dcc programming and other model railroading tips and ideas get the Model Train Techniques ebook available free with your first months membership to my online model train club.
How would you describe your overall level of experience in the hobby?
The results of our recent reader poll are in. There were 431 responses to the question: How would you describe your overall level of experience in the hobby?
42% = Average skills (180 Votes)
21% = Reasonably experienced (92 Votes)
18% = Limited skills (76 Votes)
15% = Beginner level (63 Votes)
4% =Very experienced (20 Votes)
Removing Decals from Model Trains
If you are looking to rebuild your railroad model form scratch, then you’ll have to remove decals off the train. Follow the steps below to achieve a neat look.
- Dip a rag into warm water.
- Rub the decal with the damp cloth.
- Remove the decal from the surface using a pair of tweezers.
- Soak a cotton ball into an adhesive remover.
- Use the cotton ball to wipe off any left-over residue.
- Rub the area where the decal was with a wet rag once more to clean up the surface.
Designing a Double-Ended Yard
A double yard has both ends connected to the main track. This is accomplished with a ladder that guides the train onto one of the many tracks in the yard. The components of an ideal yard should include a runaround track, one arriving and one departing track, thoroughfare that connects ladders in a yard, classification tracks and drill track. The following points must be followed.
- Do not block the main line. Limit your turnouts to two to achieve this.
- A runaround track is a must.
- The switch leads of the yard and track must be separate.
- Use a wye track for turnings.
- Do not pack the yard with trains.
Adding Details to Your Model Train
There are many small details that can be added to model railroads to improve the design. The following ones are ideas for any layout for it to depict a real railroad system.
- Decorate your locomotive with graffiti.
- Using Sobo glue for windows makes them look real.
- Make handrails for F units out of brass wire.
- Spray the windshield with a dull coat to render it the frosted look.
- Weathering is essential for all trains.
- Use rubber from old tires to make wheels.
- Add lights and sound effects.
- Give carriages a dusty and old look.
Track Weathering – How To Create A Realistic Railroad Scene
Track ballast will vary in color depending on its age and usage. If the track has had trains sitting regularly in one spot the ballast might for example have oil stains where the locomotives have been.
Roger P sent in this short article for publication:
Your railroad can showcase track weathering as a result of poorer care on the spurs and sidings. You may find more rust on these sidings which usually is light gray or grayish brown, whereas the mainline will reflect a good condition with dark brown or black in color.
When it comes to track weathering you might find very little ballast on the siding but you’re more likely to find cylinders. The mainline on the other hand will have regular purchased ballast from specific quarries. It is best to use granite or limestone as ballast on the railroad wherever possible. If you could consider these details as you create your prototype you can end up with a very realistic and well crafted railroad.
Click the link to post your comments on Rogers posting.
Model Railroad Waybill System – Should You Operate One?
The sole purpose of real life railway networks is to transport people and goods from place to place but most model trains simply circuit on a loop. If you are a purist, consider adding a model railroad waybill system to your network. A waybill system is used to identify the coach, its transport time and stops. You can use ready-made or custom made waybill systems to operate your railroad network like railroads did in the past before the age of computerization.
Model Train History Dates Back To 1840’s
Models trains are much older than most people think, with a history dating back to almost two centuries! The first model train, Birmingham Dribbler, was built in 1840s and used a real steam engine to run. These early models were fascinating except for the downside that they were running without any rails!
Some people outside the hobby get confused between model railways and miniature railways. Although the principle is the same, they are completely different in that the latter can actually carry real humans and are powered by powerful engines. So if you get asked the difference, then that is the simple answer.
Model Train Gradients
Damien kindly sent in this tip:
Years ago my father explained to me the advantages of building a grid vs. flat layout when it comes to grades. The grid layout offers both + and – grades. What is advantageous here is that if your trains have bridge or other types of over crossings, then the grade angles can be cut in half. The over crossing could be a +1.5%, where as the under crossing could at – 1.5%. Effectively this equates to a 3% grade on a flat top layout. The distances leading up to and going away from the crossing is now a shorter distance for both the over and under crossing tracks.
This works really well as the gauges go up in size. Just think of O gauges crossings and the clearance you need to clear the trains at the crossing. By cutting the distances to and from the crossings you get more bang for the buck in layout size. And the 1.5% grade sure is easier on the motors too. Of course the grades could be increased to 3% for over and under crossings, and would still be reasonable for the motors, while decreasing to and from distances even more.
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Synchro/Seuthe Smoke Units Triang Trains
John has a question for knowledgeable readers:
“I recently purchased two Traing engines on e-bay, which included smoke units, and purchased the smoke fluid. Unfortunately I am not having any luck producing smoke. Possibly the heaters are not working. They are old engines so I am unable to get replacements. Any ideas from readers for where I can get any advice or help would be appreciated please.”
Click to add your comment or answer to John’s posting.
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