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Economical Ballast for 027 Lionel Trains
Joe has kindly sent in an idea to share with others in the hobby.
I found a way to get ballast for 0 and 027 track. First of all I have been purchasing old track at train swap meets. Track and switches are there for a minimal cost. When doing different jobs in my garage, I was using play sand from The Home Depot for cleaning metal parts. The bigger grit of the sand sped up the sand blasting process. However some of the sand stones were too big for the nozzle forcing me to sift them out. Unbelievably, the pebbles that were sifted out from a normal aluminum screen turned out to be a great ballast size for my train layout.
Track ballast on Joe’s model railway layout.
With the three rail system, the space between the rails had to be spread out in order for the train wheels not to touch. (causing a derailment). After the ballast was in place, I used clear lacquer spray paint over the stone and saturated it. Once the lacquer dries, everything stays in place. The clear lacquer paint comes in spray cans at Lowe’s or The Home Depot, in their spray paint departments. You can guard for over-spray with news papers. Make sure you quickly remove the newspaper before the lacquer sets. The final step is to wipe the track with lacquer thinner on a rag to remove the lacquer and allow electrical contact with the trains. Most important is to allow adequate time for the paint and thinner to cure. ANY FUME CAN BE IGNITED FOR AN ELECTRICAL SPARK.
There are other methods of securing the ballast. Woodland Scenics has a material for this purpose that is water based. Either way the ballast looks real. I purchased a 50lb bag of sand for around $1.98 and gave me enough ballast to spread out on 60 feet of track after sifted. One can of spray paint covered over 30 feet pending on the amount of saturation applied. Click the BLUE title to add your comment or suggestion. Comments will be published as soon as they get approved by the blog moderator.
HO Cars Derailing
Richard asks readers for advice:
“I am building a Woodland Scenics River Pass layout, and I’m at the point where I need to lay track inside the tunnels and cover the tunnels. I am using the Atlas track kit that is designed for the layout, and a number of the cars derail at the switches. I have replaced some of the wheels on the cars, and that doesn’t help. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.”
To advise Richard, simply click on the BLUE title of his posting and add your answer. You don’t need to register or anything like that. Simply add your suggestion.
Train Blog Gets Important Update
If you are a regular visitor to this popular blog, you will have noticed some gradual changes over the past few weeks. You will have noticed the exciting NEW LOOK, and as from today we have made it easier for you to comment on postings. You no longer need to register with Google.
To add a comment, you simply click on the BLUE title of the posting and you’ll be directed to a page where you can add your comments. Most comments are approved within minutes (or hours) and get published on the blog.
Remember, this blog is for you, so get involved and comment on individual postings.
HO Wagon Weight
Stanley wants advice from others in the hobby:
“Dear Readers. This question has probably been asked many times [and answered] but I am in the dark about what is an average weight per wagon [European] to hold to the track properly especially curves and turnouts? In other words: 40 ft.= total ounces per car. 50 ft.= total ounces per car. Thank you for all your help !”
Add your answer below.
HO Track Spacing
Richard wants advice from others in the hobby and asks:
“What is the spacing of tracks where two run side by side? What is the spacing on curves? Previous answers have referred to NMRA standards but that means nothing to me. If I want to design my own layout how do I space?”
Please add your suggestions to help Richard below.
0 Scale Baggage Car
Neil has a question for readers:
“I am looking for an accurate representation of the B60b baggage car in the Lindbergh Special to substitute for the model in Lionel’s se. It isn’t even a Pennsylvania Railroad type and is as long as their P70 coach.”
Add your answer below.
Layout Configurations
748 model railroaders voted in our last poll that asked:
Which layout configuration(s) do you have on your layout?
The results were as follows:
Oval Track 303 (40%)
Figure 8 Track 65 (8%)
Dogbone Track 121 (16%)
Twice-Around Track 307 (41%)
Point to Point Track 132 (17%)
Reverse Loop 136 (18%)
Some More Structure Tips
John has kindly contributed this tip.
In a recent Tip we learned from Robert Anderson about saving space by having spur tracks and/or a hill leading to a large industry that is out of view and not really on the layout. Another way of doing this is to use building fronts. It takes a bit more space, but the front of the industry is the only part actually there, with the spur tracks leading off to the back of the industry. Most “shake-the-box” kits can be used, and store fronts are also very good for this purpose. But as this part of the structure is directly at the edge of your layout, paint the inside of the structure flat black so anyone viewing your trains from the back will not be distracted.
HO Scenery Plans and Structures
Andrew will like some advice from other railroaders and asks:
“Hi guys, I have an 8/4 layout structured on a rural plan. I already have a station, lumber yard, campsite, beach, lake etc. My question is what should I get next for buildings in a small rural community? Thanks for your help”
Add your suggestion below.
OO Gauge Tracks
Malcolm has a question for experienced model railroaders:
“I am a senior beginner to trainsets. I am building 3 tracks on a board 6 x 6 and hopefully bigger in future. But am having problems making the train go from track to track – it cuts out. What am I doing wrong?”
Add your answer below.
Building A Small Track Plan Using The KISS Principle
John has once again contributed some great ideas to share with others in the hobby. John writes…
In the pages of model railroad Tips by Robert Anderson, there are recommendations for small layouts, both around and around and point-to-point styles. Small layouts have their definite advantages, such as if you’re strapped for room or just want to see what can be built in a smaller area. However, “small” doesn’t mean Toy-like, unrealistic, or a “spaghetti bowl” full of jammed-in track. In fact, a small layout, if done correctly, can be the catalyst for a lifetime of model railroading,
I’ve been told many times to use the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) Principle when building any layout, but never fully realized the benefits of a well-planned, simplistic setup that worked very well until seeing a small layout that was a headache to run. In a small layout, everything should work well, and to do this, the modeler should depend on simplicity and use just enough track to have a purpose for the trains to run and switch inside the small space. I had thought that “complicated” in of itself was necessary to make the railroad effective and fun, but I found out the hard way that this is not the case. There are many more positive results involved when simplicity is used.
At the present time, I’m building a small 2X4-foot N-Scale layout, with a track plan (as shown) that is as simple as it gets. It’s just an oval of track with three single-ended sidings using three #6 switches, and overall it doesn’t get much simpler than this! Inside that oval will be homes, stores, industry, roadways, scenery, a road crossing, a waterway for swimming or fishing, and a tunnel. But most important here is to place everything so that the structures are not on top of each other, as in an actual rural scene.
For good running, do not have the track too close to the edge of the layout, where trains can wind up on the floor if jostled, or if your pet dog gets too ambitious. For this purpose I use 9-3/4” radius curved track, a two-axle diesel locomotive because of the narrow curves, and freight cars that do not exceed a scale 50-foot in length.
One more caution – even though a layout is small, it is not the time to skimp on equipment. Use the best that is affordable and you should get good results and smooth running. To make this 2X4 N-Scale, I’ve used an MRC power pack, Kato Unitrack, and Atlas locomotives and cars. So far so good, and maybe there is something to this KISS Principle!
John, thanks for sharing!
Changing Couplers
Wayne has a question that has been answered previously (search older postings) and which is answered fully in the members area of the online model train club. Readers might like to give a quick answer.
“I have several older N scale cars and want to change all to the automatic couplers. What type should I use and how much trouble to change them over? Thank you.”
Add your suggestions below.
O Lighted Car Wiring
Steven asks readers for advice:
“I have 2 North Pole Central passenger cars that had an unfortunate experience, they got hung up on the track and fried the wires inside. Is it any use to try to re-wire them or just pull all the wires out so they don’t short out on the track?”
Add your suggestions below.
oo East Central Junction Layout
Graham sent in an update on his layout:
“Hi guys. I’m a fifty two year old returner to the hobby after a twenty five year or so gap. Anyway I have built my new dream layout on two levels at 12 ft x 12 ft with a central operator island.I have four tracks in a radial pattern. On the top level one side has a dock area ,scenery includes a diorama with various shipping. The opposite side will be mining, as this will be an industrial plan, there will be very little housing or countryside.
I will have a turntable on the top level and the same on the bottom directly underneath. The top one will be set amongst the sheds, behind the through station and the bottom one be for turning locos to the shed area. The top tier has a cutout section or well to allow the top tier to join the bottom level via a sloping curve.
At the moment I am running the track from the top to the bottom. My next task is to overcome the double flap in the corner. This consists of two dropping flaps to allow access to my boiler for maintenance. This means getting track level and boards to align, good fun. I have just finished wiring two bus wires on both levels, wiring in turnouts. Next task turnout motors after teaching myself soldering.”
Comment below.
3 Quick Model RR Questions
Here are a couple of questions that are fully answered in the online model train club members area.
In the meantime, readers might like to provide the answers:
George asks:
“How can I make simulated water. What material can I use to do a good job making water and make it simple for me.”
Gary asks:
“I know N guage is smaller that HO, but where does O or OO fit in?”
Richard asks:
“What are the 3 track rails used for?”
Add your answers below.
Problem Locomotive HO Hornby Dublo 2019 2-6-4 By Meccano
Steve is hoping for some advice from experienced model railroaders and asks:
“I got an old Hornby Dublo Set from my uncle, No 2019 2-6-4 Train Goods Set Manufactured by Meccano LTD, The engine doesn’t seem to work everything turns. I have tried voltage directory to the terminals but nothing. Has anybody got any ideas or know where I can get some instructions on pulling it apart? It has one copper colored spring in the brushes and a shorter stainless one with a homemade Brush on the other side so I’m guessing there has been running repairs done at some stage”
Add your suggestion below.
HO Overhead Catenary Line
Guillermo, from the Patagonia Argentina has a question for readers:
"I want add overhead catenary line in part of my layout. I haven`t got information for a proper installation? Thanks for the help."
Add your comment or answer below.
Raising HO Layout To Garage Roof
Tony has a question for readers:
I have a 8x4 layout which I need to suspend into the ceiling for storage. There are strong supporting beams in the ceiling and I have a well braced base board. Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
Comment below.
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