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Buying A Good Locomotive

John asks readers:

“It is important to buy good locomotives. I can vouch for N-Scale Atlas engines, as they run and run and run with just routine maintenance. With the other plastic brands, that can cost as much as Atlas, they run for awhile and then stop, seemingly for no reason. Some of the Walthers RS-2’s run good, and Kato is another good brand. Beyond that, or for cheaper engines, I wouldn’t trust them. In that same vein, has anyone any knowledge of the Kato F-units? They’re supposed to be good for the money, making them the only F-Unit that actually can pull some cars.”

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Peter’s Layout 1960’s To 2008

Peter from South Africa has sent in this photo of his layout and writes:

In November I went down to cape town for a few days and bought a class 25 condenser from a friend  there which is a 4-8-4 and the total length of the loco and condensing unit is 42cm so it’s large  and was assured that it would fit through my 18-22 inch radius curves but alas it did not so had to add 30cm to the one side and 50cm to the end of the board to accommodate 32-36 inch radius curves and had to build a new section to the board.

I am attaching a photo of the board and the loco for everyone to see. My board is 6 meters in length that is one side plus 1.25cm across which gives me a running track on the main line of almost 16 meters. As my layout is based on south african railways in the 1960’s to late 2008 I have deisels and steam on my board and is based on a small south african village in the cape province.

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Z scale Model Train Layout

Ernie wants advice from anyone into z scale trains:

“I have a rather large collection of Z gauge cars and locomotives. Although most of these are on display, I would like to build a functioning layout and, if possible, digitally control it. I am pretty inexperienced in model train layout and although I have read a few of your books and articles, I need some specific help with Z gauge and recommended processes. Can your readers recommend a how-to guide possibly specifically addressing Z gauge layouts and scenery? My room is about 6 x 11 but it is tall enough that I could fit up to three tiers so I would also need some advice with elevations and grades. Any help would be appreciated.”

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Model Train Inventory

John asks readers:
"I need to know if there are any programs (downloadable and free) for keeping an inventory on the model trains."
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Locomotive Electrical Problem

Andy asks readers:

“My HO locomotive seems to have an electrical issue, it will not run at all while placed on the track. As soon as I lift the back of the locomotive off the track just a little, with the front still on the rails the engine engages and the wheels turn like normal. Is this an electrical problem in the engine? Or something else? My other locomotives run just fine on the same track. Please give me any thoughts or suggestions.”

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Trains Uncoupling

Denise asks readers:

“How do I keep my HO trains from uncoupling? Also how can he keep the cars from jumping the track?”

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HO Train Jumping Track

Tim asks readers for ideas:

“I have a 2-10- 4 stean engine that jumps track even on a perfect flat , straight area. Front two wheels jump track imeditatly. My others don’t. Any idea hat to look for?”

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Model Train Tips

Here are a three tips sent in by members of my online Model Train Club:

Bernard says:

“My tip is about planning a layout. We spend hundreds (probably thousands) of hours at our layouts so we need to be comfortable. I mean the right height off the floor, easy to reach access to all sections of the layout. I have a high bar stool handy to sit on and I’ve added foam padding to make it more comfortable. Also my power pack is close to the electrical wall socket so I don’t need to run miles of cords (or try and hide them).”

Daniel says:

“I think it’s best to start with a 4 × 8 foot bench. You can always add another 4 × 8 foot bench at the end to form an L shape, or add another at the other end to form a U shape. I use screws and glue (not nails), as nails tend to work loose with vibrations from trains. Brace the legs for extra strength (your layout will get heavy with mountains, buildings etc) and stability.”

Robert adds:

Sometimes it is better to build a layout in modules, or work on just half of the layout to start with. A half-sized layout is not only quicker to build, it will provide you with a good guide to the costs and time involved.

More tips are available inside the members area of the Online Model Train Club.

Bruce says:

“Because I have a bad back I made my bench 42 inches off the floor… no bending. The only problem is I find it difficult to reach the rear of my layout as I can’t stretch my hand as far at that height. My advice is around 3 foot off the floor for most people. Put a piece of plywood at that height and test out reach-ability (if there’s such a word) before screwing your bench together. My trains look good higher up, but little kids can’t see (or touch!).”

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Upper Level Double Track Clearance

Michael asks readers:

“I want to put on my HO layout a double track upper level. My question is; what is the distance from the lower board to the bottom of the upper board, for clearance of trains running under the board.”

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HO DCC Decoders

Rich asks readers:

“Does anyone know what kind of dcc sound decoder is compatible, with Athearn eight pin plug,and also a mth eight pin. Thanks for your help.”

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HO Woodland Scenics

Jay asks readers:

“Hi, just starting to build my first layout and was wondering if anybody has tried the Woodland Scenics River Pass ST1484 layout. I would love to hear all comments good/bad and where is best place to get one. Thanks Jay”

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Rail King Crossing Gate

Sal asks readers:

“How do I wire Rail King O crossing gates to Gragraves track? The instructions only talk about Rail King track.”

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Passenger Station Platform Clearance

Mr Leary asks:

“I am building an HO scale passenger station and I want the cars as close to the platforms as possible. I think I’ll have the rail nearest the platform 3/8 inches away from the edge of the platform to make it so that my imaginary passengers don’t have to leap across the gap. Anybody ever get this close or closer?”

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Easy Cheap Good Looking Trees

Jack kindly sent in this idea:
"Most people buy the white or red grapes to snack on. They are a healthy snack.  However they are more. Be careful pulling them from the stem. Dry the stems (usually 24 hrs is enough) put some school glue, hot glue or almost any adhesive and apply the 'moss' available in most any craft or mega stores for very few dollars. The trees look natural and no two are alike."

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Grass Carpet Tip

Jonty has been a member of my online Model Train Club for 7 months now posted this idea in the members area:

I prefer grass carpet which is a simulated grass with a paper backing. It is hard-wearing and easy to apply to large areas. However too much of it can look a little too perfect (like a golfing green). What I do is weather it in places with a little bleach (watered down). Depending on how strong the bleach concentration is, the grass carpet with turn whitish, or a browny, or yellowy color. These colors can be effective on steeper slopes with little vegetation.

I have also used the Woodlands Scenic scatter grass and also make my own from a recipe that seems to change every time I make it. I often combine the above two techniques (bleached grass carpet with scatter grass) to get a very natural looking scene.

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Scratching Building Houses And Buildings

Here is just one of the hundreds of useful tips inside the members area of my online Model Train Club. This one is supplied by Samuel who has been a member for 10 months.

Over the past 6 years I have done a lot of scratchbuilding of houses and buildings. I have tried using cardboard, balsa-wood and even styrene. Although I like working with balsa it is not always as strong as I would like it to be.

A friend gave me some double-sided printed-circuit board and it was perfect. I cut it using a guillotine as it was so strong. It was easy to solder pieces together. He gave me heaps of offcuts for free. I could still incorporate some balsa as it easily glued to the circuit board. I used my soldering iron to add some stonework effects. The buildings I now make with circuit board are almost indestructible.

Lots of very experienced model railroaders are members of the online club and share their ideas with other members. If you are not already a member – Join the online model train club today.

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Make Retaining Walls For Layout

Chris is a keen member of my online Model Train Club and sent in this tip.

I use building construction foam that’s normally for expansion joints to build retaining walls on my layout. There are a couple of different types of this product and one has a cover you peel away leaving a very sticky surface. To imitate rocks I have used a variety of materials including crushed slate, aquarium stones and crushed brick which I apply to the sticky surface. I then add some grout between the stones. You could use this technique for roads or paths too.

There are hundreds more useful tips for registered members to access inside the club area.

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Planned Layout With Contain Ship And Oil Tanker

Andre has some grand ideas for his planned layout and would like feedback from others. Comment below.
“My layout consists on paper at the moment, but my idea was to recreate the Gotthard Bahn in Switzerland ,around Wassen with the church and the 3 levels. It also contains a city and a harbor. It represents the city of Basel with the harbor. Of course it is not an exact copy of the city just a imaginary city and harbor. I also try to incorporate a narrow scale track that runs to a stone quarry and a sawmill. The harbour will have a container ship,a oil tanker and several barges and industries. It is about 20 feet long and 3 to 4 feet wide in a U format. If anyone has any construction suggestions or ideas I would be very grateful.”

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