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Replacement Gears For Engines
Edward is into G scale and asks readers for advice:
“I have two engines. One is a 0-4-0 that is a BACHMANN. The second is a Lionel 2-6-0. Both have stripped gears that are driven by the motors worm gear. I could repair them my self if I could get the needed gear. I have not been able to find a replacment gear after two months of searching the net. Can anyone please advise?”
Add your suggestions to help Edward below.
Points Control Board For Points On Railroad
David has a question for keen HO model railroaders and asks:
“I have 35 sets of points on my layout, all have through board underneath motors. I need to wire them back to a control board so am looking for a supplier you can supply control boards. Can some suggest a source?”
Add your suggestions below.
Metal Wheels On Trains
Tim has a question for readers on train wheels:
“You state that metal wheels are better and the price has come down. Where do people get them from? I run Lionel almost exclusively.”
Add your suggestions below.
Reverse Loops And Electrification of WYE
Donn has a question on HO reverse loops:
“To use a WYE for reversal of direction from the main line (horizontal), I will pass thru a R turnout, head vertical up to the right leg of the WYE, then continue thru the WYE (completely thru the length of the train), then reverse direction and back down thru the WYE left leg, back down thru a left turnout back onto the main line. I will be using a reverse loop module (Bachmann). I will isolate both rails (each leg). Do I need separate reverse loop modules on each leg? All Bachmann EZ track and Bachmann DCC.”
If you can help Donn, please comment below.
Older Athearn RDC Units
Adolphus asks readers:
"Does anyone know of a source for purchasing replacement HO drive systems for the rubber band drives Athearn once used for their RDC's? I have two of these rubber band driven RDCs and would like to replace with a more modern drive system."
Comment below.
Bachmann Repairs
Terry has a question for readers:
“I have a Bachmann LMS B1 loco. This is in perfect order except that due to clumsy handling the plastic axles have split. They are white plastic (nylon) with a square recess each end into which the drive wheels plug. I tried getting it fixed at my favourate train shop, but was told that the axles are not available. Can anyone help with a source of supply of these? It would help me resurrect a perfectly good model.”
To assist Terry you can reply below.
Tip On Buying Locomotive Decoders
Here is another of the many tips in the online model train club members area:
When purchasing a locomotive with a decoder installed, look for the wording “DCC equipped”, or “Factory installed decoder”, or “W/DCC”, or wording like that. Be careful though, because the words “DCC Ready” usually means that the locomotive is capable of having a decoder installed and that one is NOT already installed. I repeat, “DCC ready” usually means there is NO decoder fitted, but the wiring inside the locomotive is terminated with a socket, ready for addition of a “Plug and Play” decoder. This is an easy installation, no soldering.
If you are still unsure whether or not a locomotive has DCC status, you can try this test. Place the locomotive on the program track of a DCC system. See if the command station can read CVs… and if it can’t… then no decoder is fitted. Also, without a decoder fitted, the loco would “hum” with the throttle set at “0″. If the locomotive responds to the throttle on a DC system, then either there is NO decoder, or the locomotive may have a decoder that has analog operation enabled. If in doubt, it is always best to get clarification from the hobby store staff, or from the manufacturer or person supplying the locomotive.
Plastic Wheels Or Metal Wheels – What’s Best?
Here is a tip that Richard a member of the online model train club) shared with other club members:
Throw away plastic wheels and buy metal replacements if included in a kit. Metal wheels will generally run truer and with less resistance than injection molded mass produced plastic wheels. The price of metal wheels has dropped significantly in the last decade. Some of the grunge you have to clean from the rails is plastic residue from plastic wheels, metal wheels stay cleaner longer as does the rail.
Definitely avoid oiling track if you use plastic wheels even the famous Wahl Hair Clipper Oil… this will actually increase the amount of cleaning as the plastic wheels are affected by incompatible oil until the plastic wheel crumbles of course… there are plastic compatible oils made by LaBelle but I still would not recommend it as a practice.
When I started out the second time in the hobby, every time I bought a freight car kit I bought a set of kadees and metal wheels straight away. It can seem a hardship to have to buy 100 to 200 Kadees and 200 to 400 metal wheels all at once to upgrade your small freight car fleet. Buying them as you go is much easier especially your wallet. Remember, model railroaders always have many more locos and freight cars than they can actually run on their layouts at any one time.
Cleaning Dirty Track
Paul sent in this helpful track cleaing tip:
Often the first indication of dirty track is a flickering locomotive headlight. My advice is to be careful when using any abrasive to clean your track. New track is generally nickel plated and you can often remove dirt without harsh abrasives. Once you remove the smooth coating with an abrasive, your track is exposed to oxidation and will need cleaning more frequently. The track will also be more likely to collect dirt. I use LaBelle #105 DCC Track Conditioner. Just clean your track with this product, and leave a micro-coating on the rails to dramatically improve your DCC reliability.
How Not To Lose Train Parts
If you drop screws and parts on the floor you’re not the only one. The problem with working on a loco or the electrical system is that as we get older the parts seem to get smaller. Here is a simple solution to stop those small part dropping on the floor or you might even want to store some parts using this method. Like anything, it is not perfect, but it is an idea that could work for many in the hobby.
Get some 3 inch wide masking tape. Simply fold an inch or so back onto itself. This will provide a non sticky area for you to write or label the parts. You then stick the screws and/or parts to the masking tape. You then have a low-cost device to stop parts rolling onto the floor or you could use it as a storage system or small parts.
Planning New 00 Layout
Brian has a question for readers:
“I have a fully usable space of 3M x 2M and wish to install a model railway system. I hope someone can help with a track layout only. I will probably want to run a system that will represent the age of steam during the period of the late 40’s to the mid 50’s. Any questions on rolling stock can be brought up at a later date if needed. I really do not know where and how to start on a layout with 2 passenger lines and a 3rd maybe a 4th of goods wagons.”
Add your feedback below.
Overloading House Sockets
Kev has a question for readers:
“I’ve got far too many 12V street lights and track transformers running and they all plug into the same 15 amp circuit of my house wiring. They won’t all work at the same time. Without re-wiring the house or plugging into my neighbours house has anyone any suggestions?”
Readers can offer suggestions, but obviously Kev should seek the services of a qualified electrician if he thinks there is any risk to safety.
Roco DCC Controller and LENZ Compact
Michael has an HO DCC question for knowledgeable readers:
I have a Fleischmann loco that has a decoder factory fitted. Whilst trying the loco on my LENZ Compact I had not noticed that I had left a Roco DCC controller switched on with power to the track. Since I have done this stupid thing the lights work on the diesel but the loco does not move. The lights keep flashing then go steady, but no movement. Is there any way I will be able to get the loco to work correctly again? I kook forward to hearing from someone with experience if possible on this subject
Add your suggestion to help Michael below.
Tools for Weathering
Here’s a tip from Mike:
“We are constantly looking for the right tools for detailing and weathering. Check out the cosmetics counters in big stores. There are several unique shaped Q-Tips that are perfect for applying paints and chalks and are reasonably priced for large quantities that can last forever. Shaped sponges for Bathing and Complexion Care and are super handy for paint application and clean up. Look around the counter – you never know what could be useful.”
Even some of the discount stores have cosmetic sections with some really useful brushes etc ideal for model train weathering.
H O Transformers With Multiple Locomotives
David asks readers:
“To run multiple engines, how many transformers is safe to run ?”
Add your answer below.
DCC and Tortoises w/Peco switches
Dick has an HO layout and has four detailed questions and is hoping readers will be able to advise him:
I have pretty much decided on NCE DCC PowerCab (other consideration is Digitrack) with Peco switches and Tortoise (or?) switch machines on a very small (10’x10’) HO layout. The rough plan includes ~20 -25 switches (which includes double slips, 2 & 3 Y’s) a few Xings and 3 reverse loops.
I want to use DCC and will probably only run just 1 or 2 locos @ a time. I don’t have any long wheel base engines. It has been suggested that I use Tortoise switch machines for ease of installation, operation and simply more fun experience, but am open for other recommendations.
Here are a few questions that I specifically have.
1) Should I use Insulfrog or Electrofrog Peco switches? I have been told Insulfrog is best but have read that elecros work fine. Does one or the other work better w/a particular DCC (NCE or Digitrack)? Is one or the other type of switch easier to install and operate?
2) Do double slips, wyes, and crossings need special treatments? For example, I think that I was told that double slips need 2 Tortoise machines.
3) What decoders are recommended for Tortoise and DCC, or is there a particular one recommended for NCE vs. Digitrack?
4) Can NCE or Digitrack handle this setup better? From what I have read so far it seems that NCE has the greater flexibility and expansion capacity. I may not have read enough yet, so that is why I ask for input. I’m sure that it’s obvious that I’m a newbie in the hobby (out of it for 45+ yrs.). I look forward to reading responses, getting ideas/tips/suggestion/recommendations/cautions, etc. Your help is appreciated.
Add your suggestions below.
Using Flex Track
Henry has a question for readers about using HO flex track and asks:
“Can someone give me some directions in using flex track?”
Add your feedback and ideas below.
HO Track Clearances
Henry would like some advice from readers and asks:
In building a model railroad, how much should I allow for clearances:
(1) Between parallel tracks?
(2) Around the edge of the layout?
(3) The edge of the track and scenery (trees, buildings, depots)?
(4) The edge of the track and mountain edge?
Add your suggestions below.
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