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Mum, Dad And Sons Work As Team On Railroad Project
A reader from Australia (Robert P) has kindly sent in these photos and story of the Pendle Town Rising layout.
Our layout comprises of three "module" boxes. When we say module box, they are constructed on a 1.2 m x .6 m box with two common rail lines. The beauty of this is that you can connect to other people's module boxes and create a unique continuous railway. We recently displayed this concept at a local festival and the response we received was amazing.
A key point about our module boxes is that all of the points were hand made, and the scenery was completed by myself as well as my two sons Zac 11 and Damien 8.
We took the module concept a step further and created mini scenery modules which are interchangeable.
The above photo shows the module boxes in their entirety. The middle two tracks form a common rail lines which can be attached to other modules. For showing purposes, we built a loop behind the boxes meaning we could run our stock continuously. All of the points have been made by hand - no gigs used, all done by eye. These boxes were created by myself as well as my family with a large input from my sons Zac 11 and Damien 8. My wife is great at shopping at the $2.00 shop and has a knack for creative thinking. Who would have thought you could create wild long grass from wallpaper brushes. The man in the shop thought she was mad!
The buildings on the upper level are interchangeable and my boys are working on even more of them. We chose to do a zig-zag railway as it optimises the limitations in space when working in module format. From the rear, all of the points have been connected to slide switches and colour coded by section. This means that running the layout is virtually idiot proof.
Common sense prevails. My youngest son ran 3 trains continuously independently for hours on end. I think a few people got quite a shock when his little head popped up over the top. Both boys but particularly my eldest son contributed to a good percentage of the scenery, amazing where a child's imagination can take you.
Robert Anderson comments...
What an inspiration to everyone! I'm sure society wouldn't have half the problems if more families worked as a team like this. Congratulations and well done!!
More Coupler Problems
Carlos is also having a problem with couplers and asks:
“I am always having problems with the couplers. They are too high in between them or they uncouple when they pass or throw a switch. I use two kinds of couplers: kadee and the normal black mantua coupler or similar. Some some advise me please?”
Add your comments below.
Note: The new 303 Model Railroading Answers ebook has several excellent solutions to coupler problems.
Couplers
Jacks wants to hear reader’s opinions on couplers (brand not stated) and asks:
“How do the new type of HO coupler (what I think as new) work? The ones that look like a real train coupler. I find they don’t hold well. Is that bar at the bottom the issue?”
Comment below.
00 Gauge Wiring Diagram
Andrew asks readers:
“How do I wire a PM2 seep motor using press to make contact switches?”
Comment below.
Shinohara Switch Conversion
Al also has a question on DCC switches and asks readers:
“What is the best and easiest way to convert Shinohara switches to DCC friendly switches? I am told that I only need to gap the diverging tracks from the frog and that no special wiring or jumpers are required. Is this correct?”
Add your comment below.
Starting A DCC Setup
Frank wants to get started in DCC and wants advice from experienced DCC operators:
“I am running ho on a basic transformer. My layout is a double shelf around the wall design. 5 track yard; industries for switching; towns; and more industries. All sections of track are isolated, with loads of separate switches for each isolated track section; this is all from one control panel which I designed in. Where I have to stay in one spot to operate railroad. (and you know the problems that arise to the furthest spot from control panel) I would like to switch to DCC for realistic operations. I need DCC for dummies: Could anyone start me off on the ground floor (or is that Basement floor level). Also along with a basic dcc setup; the brand and cost is a factor.”
Add your comments below.
DCC Switches
Tom has a question for DCC buffs and asks:
“I currently have several new switches, code 83, being gathered for my new layout when I retire out west. I am starting to change over to DCC with new engines.What, if any, is the difference between a DC switch and a DCC switch ? None of my switches indicate they are DCC and I want to switch over to DCC power and engines.”
Add your comment below.
Special Thank You
I would like to thank everyone for the kind comments and congratulatory emails on the release of my new ebooks. I am thrilled they have been so well received and so helpful to so many. I certainly tried to include lots of different topics to make the new ebooks very different to the already popular Model Train Help ebook. I think I got it right!
Avoiding Problems In Tunnels
The fascination with tunnels is when the train disappears into the darkness and then, all going well, mysteriously reappear on the other side of the mountain. However, what happens if the train stops or derails inside the tunnel? It can be extremely frustrating if you know exactly where the train is, but are unable get it to it without doing some damage.
The simple solution is to always have a method of accessing or removing your trains from tunnels. Some model train hobbyists build a secret removable panel into the side of the mountain for easy access.
Another important thing when building tunnels is to carefully calculate clearances when building tunnels.
Always check there is enough space for your biggest locomotive to run through the entire stretch of tunnel especially if the track does not run straight line.
You wouldn’t want to apply paper mache to the chicken wire frame of the tunnel (if that is the construction method you use), only to discover your biggest loco is too high to get through the tunnel.
Tunnels can look unrealistic if the clearances are too low or too narrow. A tunnel also needs to accommodate the longest freight or passenger train you might ever want to run. The other thing to consider is that steam engines were taller than the model diesel locomotives.
So, if you ever want to run steam locomotives, then make sure there is enough clearance top and sides throughout the entire tunnel length (allowing for bends in the track).
My suggestion is to make tunnels higher. I see so many tunnels constructed for modern diesel locos which are not as high and much shorter than steam trains were. They don’t look real. When you see photos of real railroads, the tunnels are often quite old, and many were originally built to take steam engines which were higher. The tunnels had to accommodate the taller engines and the plume of smoke they belched out.
Look at photos and measure the proportions of the tunnel entrance in relation to the distance between the rails. You might find that some tunnels are 4½ times higher than the width of the rails. The width of the tunnel might be 3¾ times wider than the rail width. A narrow tunnel might cause derailments with longer cars.
If the engine is nearly 12 inches in length, has 8 axles, and is about 3 inches wide, then the tunnel should be long enough, high enough and wide enough to accommodate the engine as well as the other cars. This is especially true if you have parallel track flowing through the tunnel.
Building your own model railroad tunnels can be a lot of fun. You can buy ready-made tunnel portals (ends) to add a touch of realism. They look much more realistic at a tunnel entrance than a rough-cut hole. You can ‘weather’ them with gray-wash, chalk, etc. You can also purchase plastic kit-set tunnels in different scales. Finishing off the tunnel with matt paint and adding some ground cover can be very effective. Some model train shops and online retailers even sell tunnels that have bends, or can be extended, or joined together. The possibilities are endless.
To blacken the insides of tunnels use a flat black paint on all interior surfaces – walls, ceiling and floor. There’s nothing worse than a beautiful layout with a plywood-colored tunnel interior. Tunnels should be dark and mysterious.
More model train scenery and structures ideas
Train Table
Bob asks readers:
I am trying to put together a train layout and I have lots of S scale train stuff. My question is Is there anything I should put down on the plywood before making my layout? It's about 14' by 18'.
Add your comments below.
New Ebooks Now Available – Early Bird Special Offer
The long awaited release is here. Two new ebooks out now –
1. Model Train Scenery and Layout Construction Ideas
2. 303 Model Railroading Answers
Read full details on what is included in each one at Model Train Layouts.
They are the perfect follow-ons to my best-selling Model Train Help ebook.
Gouache For Weathering Model Trains
Have a go using Gouache (a water mixable color available from art stores) for adding a pitting or streaking appearance to freight cars. Use a very fine artist brush to put a small dot of Gouache on the spot where you want to add a rust pit that has streaked down the side of the freight car. Let the Gouache start to dry. Then dip a wider brush in water (or Micro Sol Decal Set) and then pull the brush gently downwards from the dot. This will create a streak.
You can also use Gouache to create much thin washes of rust or dirt. Try using white gouache to give a bleeding white effect on wagons.
Another idea is to prepare a thin Gouache wash. Apply the color to the car so it is is wet. Then sprinkle a little salt (kitchen table salt) on the surface. Wait for it to dry, then rub the salt away with your fingers. Then touch up the car with dabs of gouache to finish off the pitting. Always test new techniques on an old car first. You wouldn’t want to make an mistakes with one of your best cars.
More scenery ideas in my new ebook available now from http://www.model-train-layouts.net
How To Locate Trains And Accessories You Can’t Find
I often get emails from model railroaders wanting to buy a certain locomotive or train accessory they can’t seem to find for sale anywhere.
Well, now they can run a FREE listing on http://www.tradetrains.com in the new WANTED category. There is also a new category where model train clubs can list their open days and activities for FREE.
The TradeTrains.com website is very new, but is getting a lot of visitors wanting to buy and sell model train stuff. So, if you have something you want to buy, sell or swap… list it now for FREE at http://www.tradetrains.com
It is FREE to register on the site.
Power Needed To Run Trains
Brian has a pwer output question for readers and asks:
“I have two different 0 track layout on my 51″ x 132″ table. On one layout I have the Pennsylvania Flyer 0-8-0 Freight Starter Set with a CW 40 transformer. On this layout there is 14 straight 10 inch tracks and 8 036 curves. On the second layout I have The North pole centrale starter set with a CW 40 tansformer and this layout has 8 straight 10 inch tracks with 10 036 curves and two remote control switches, one left and one right. My question is about the transformers on these layout, are they powerful enought to handle the tracks on each layout. Thanks. I am very new to model trains.”
Readers can comment below.
14 volts 16 volts
Erik is a beginner and asks readers:
“I am new to trains. Can I run a 14 volt engine on a transformer with 16 volts output on my HO layout?”
Add your answer below.
Opening Flaps Electrics
Jim has a question for readers:
“My double oo rail layout is entered by a removable section at the door entrance. Can some one advise me as to the best way to wire the removable section so as to provide a reliable electrical connection?”
Comment below.
TRIX 66111 Lighting Set
JP asks:
“Several years ago I purchased the TRIX 66111 lighting set in Geneva, intending to use it with 2 WALTHERS EAF sets I had bought previously here in Australia. Much to my displeasure, I discovered upon arrival back home that the TRIX lighting set didn’t include any instructions at all as it (most unhelpfully) merely came with a slippet of paper indicating that the instructions came with the TRIX 66106 Oxygenstahlkonverter set (which I of course don’t have…).
I have held off building the 2 Walthers kits while attempting to secure a copy of the instructions from somewhere (I’ve tried TRIX directly on at least 3 occasions, as have several hobby shops in Switzerland, Belgium & Germany – all without success).Would anyone by any chance still have the instructions from the TRIX 66106 Oxygenstahlkonverter kit & provide me with a scanned copy? Thanks in advance!”
Comment below.
Kadee Couplers
David has a question for readers with knowledge of couplers:
“I have HO rolling stock from kits from 60 years ago to more recent times and would like to make one pass through standardizing the couplers. I like the appearance of the Kadee couplers on the older kits, but there are so many varieties of Kadee couplers, I’m lost. What is the difference between different Kadee couplers? Why would I choose one Kadee knuckle coupler style over another?”
If you can assist David, please use the green feedback and comment link below.
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