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Train Stops On Turnouts

Don would like help from a knowledgeable reader and asks:

“Every once in awhile the train will stop at turnouts. Why is this and how do I solve the problem?”

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Building Walls On Layout

Paul wants advice on building walls:

“Some years ago I bought a railway depot in France and although new to model railways I am trying to scratch build the area as authentically as possible but am having problems building walls – Can anyone suggest a good thorough reference or book dealing with this subject? Scenery building perhaps.”

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Electrical Problems on Ceiling Layout

Ben has a ceiling layout and wants help from an experienced railroader:

“I have a train going around the ceiling. The trouble I get is drop outs along the route as in it stops and goes and at times does run. How do I get flawless power running along the tracks. I had the Engine gone through and cleaned about four years ago. I have cleaned the tracks and still have drop outs. Please help?”

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LNER no. 2001 Cock ‘o the North, Gresley P2 class 2-8-2

Above: Painting by Ian Cook Cock o’ the North on the Forth Bridge in watercolour and gouache.

John has sent in this wonderful contribution that I’m sure everyone will enjoy:

The photos were taken by my friend Ian Cook who is making his name as a railway artist. I have seen some of Ian’s paintings and you can almost catch a whiff of that unmistakeable smell of smoke, steam and hot steam oil.

The locomotive is LNER no. 2001 Cock ‘o the North, Gresley P2 class 2-8-2, a very powerful machine indeed.


Doubtless you recognise the location
– it is, of course, the mighty Forth Bridge in Scotland. Sadly none of the P2 class were saved although the enthusiasts have begun to build new. The Peppercorn pacific Tornado no. 60163 is the first of these new generation locos and because it uses modern construction techniques like a welded boiler and roller bearings in place of white metal journals, is proving itself a great mainline contender.

As Ian is nearing retirement from his career as a sales engineer (for which he travels Britain and Europe) we must hope that his talent burgeons as he will soon be able to give himself totally to his art. Ian is no longer a railway modeller but is concentrating on railway photography and art. At present he is working on a painting of the Royal Albert Bridge, Saltash, the last great work of that doyen of railwaymen, Isambard Kingdom Brunel. Ian’s painting is being done in the golden light of an Autumn sunset. This bridge joins Cornwall to England. Perhaps I should tell you that the Cornish consider themselves a race apart and are as elite and separate as the people of Wales.

His photos that I sent you were in fact taken at Pontrilas, just over the border into Welsh Wales coming south from Hereford on the Welsh Marches line from Shrewsbury via Church Stretton, Ludlow, Leominster, Hereford, Pontrilas and Abergavenny to Newport (Monmouthshire). At Pontrilas the line crosses a shoulder of The Black Mountains, links up with the Great Western main line at Newport and then heads into Cardiff.

The sole locomotive in the photos is King class no. 6024 King Edward I shortly to be withdrawn for overhaul. But never fear because no. 6023 King Edward II is nearing completion of a total restoration so our heritage trains will not be bereft of a King for long.

The double headed train seen crossing the viaduct and at the lineside at Pontrilas is hauled by Kinlet Hall no. 4936 (not Hagley Hall no. 4930) and Nunney Castle no.5029.

There is one other King saved and that is no. 6000 King George V. It is kept in the ‘Steam’ museum at Swindon along with no. 4073 Caerphilly Castle. Sadly both are static exhibits and will not run again. It was no.6000 which, when new in 1927 was exhibited at The Baltimore and Ohio railway in the USA. The American engineers found it quite unbelievable that a locomotive which was dwarfed by theirs could be so powerful and free running. King George V was therefore presented with an inscribed brass bell which even today is bolted in position on the front buffer beam. If there is anything else you want to know about the railways, locomotives and rolling stock of Britain please feel free to ask. If I don’t know all the answers, I know a man who does!

There are about eight Halls still running or in overhaul and about six Castles. All will run from time to time when in possession of a boiler certificate. Steam locomotive operation on “Heritage” trains with fare paying passengers on board is a tremendous business now here in the UK. British Rail have realised the earning potential of steam trains and all the old barriers to operation by restored steam have been dropped.

Ian used to own the heritage Daimler bus pictured here.


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Track Oxidization Problems

Here’s a good question from Joel on track oxidization. If you can help him please use the green comments link below this posting. Also share this with your friends on Twitter and Facebook. See buttons below.

“I live in South Florida and have a tough time keeping the nickel track from oxidizing. I have an N scale layout with a lot of track, yet before each operating session I have to spend a tremendous amount of time cleaning track. And, with some of the tight spaces on a well detailed N scale layout, that can mean damage. I actually run two track cleaning cars but that’s only good once the oxidaion is removed. Anybody use a good technique to prevent or reduce oxidizing?”

rail tours

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Lubricating Model Trains

Mike wants some guidance on lubricating model trains and asks:

“I have some older trains(N/HO). Is there a basic diagram I can follow: Where to oil and lube (what parts of the engine and cars?).”

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Model railroad clubs

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Space Between Track


For the mainline, you can have straight parallel tracks quite close. On a mainline less distance between parallel tracks might cause problems if a train on one track derails – it is more likely to foul the adjoining track and cause any trains running on the adjoining track to derail. In yards and industrial areas it is an advantage to have a little more space between sidings and spurs to allow the removal of cars with your hands without knocking cars on other tracks.

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Marker Lights For Front Of Locomotive

Nel wants some advice from experienced model railroaders and asks:

“I am lookling for a source of marker lights for the front of a locomotive boiler and piping details for under each side of cab for Williams by Bachman N & W J as found on top of line 0-gauge J models. I have added similar details to my Lionel N & W J but that source (MTH) can no longer help . It took guts to drill holes in the cab of a $1000 model cab in order to mount the marker lights and the piping details had to be modified slightly in order to fit but God is in the details!”

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Lionel KW Transformer – New Diode

Douglas

“I just purchased a used Lionel KW transformer. Both sides work great. My question is; is there a test for the train horn? I cannot get it to work. I have a new diode if i need to put it on but I want to know for sure that is the problem before I do that work. Is there another area I should look before replacing the diode? Thanks.”

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Model railway models

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Getting Started In Model Trains

Mary Beth was inspired by the earlier posting on adding people to a model train layout and asks:

“Where I can get scale model people for my train layout?”

Ron sounds like he urgently needs to read the Model Train Help ebook that will all of his questions and more. However, in the meantime, maybe someone could give him some helpful pointers to get him started:

“I am so new to this hobyy and am not sure were to start. I have two old N scale trains from my youth and also some new track, given to me. I have a limited space in the basement and not sure if I want to stay with N gauge. I am not sure what the new digital stuff is and what it works on? What is needed to make it work? How do I find out what I need to know? See I told you I am a rookie.”

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Low Cost Weathering Of Freight Cars

This is a low-cost way to weather freight cars. Remove the bright shine from freight cars with this weathering technique (practice on an old car first).

Apply some white water based house paint (just a small amount) to a small brush. Then dip it in water and give it a good soaking. However, don’t wash all the paint off. Starting with the roof brush it over the model. Use downward strokes to brush it to the bottom of the wagon. Don’t worry if it run’s down the sides as you can wipe away spillages with a piece of kitchen paper towel.

Then get some Woodland scenics water based ground dye (burnt umber is a good choice). Add a few drops in a paper cup with a small amount of water. Then paint this mixture over the wagon like you did with the white mixture. You want a dirty looking mix.

After you have covered the wagon you can brush the model with a very diluted down mix of brown. Brush it on starting at the top. Use a very wet brush and all the colors should start running down the side. Paint some on rivet lines, the door edges, and other places that would normally attract rust or dirt and grime. Use a paper towel and soak up the spills.

You could even use this technique on the trucks and wheels, but you might want to use a “rust” looking color on the wheels.

More model railway tips in the Model Train Help ebook.

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Which Is Your Favorite Model Train Manufacturer

Here’s your chance to take part in our latest poll (see poll in the right hand column). You can also see the LIVE results.

In this latest poll you can choose your favorite brand of model trains. You can also use the Twitter and Facebook links below this posting to share this with your friends. They might want to vote too.

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People Add Realism To A Layout


Make sure any vehicles and rail crossings are from the right era. One idea is black washing the grilles and hubcaps to add depth and realism. Using a small brush you can also paint tail-lights, parking lights and door handles if needed.

Then consider taking the cars apart and install drivers and passengers. Nothing looks more fake on a layout than vehicles seemingly driven by invisible ghosts! You can purchase miniature figures in male, female and child variations all molded in ‘flesh’ color. The arms must be attached by gluing. Then the figures can be painted. Sometimes, the figures won’t fit between the steering wheel and the seat. It sounds a bit cruel but you simply cut the legs off with pliers and they fit just fine.

Use flat (rather than glossy) model paint to make painted clothing and hair look real. Keep things to the right scale relative to the trains. More ideas in my Model Train Help ebook.

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Fastening Gravel & Crushed Stone

Phil also has a G scale layout and asks:

“I have put down my LGB copper track on hard plastic form (cannot remember manufacturers name). I will now fasten every other section to this base. Unfortunately this layout is under some trees and accumulates leaves and debris. I am looking to glue the crushed stone and gravel. However, no-one seems to be able to help me with this process. What adhesive should I use and how do I accomplish this? Im looking to maintain the layout with the least amount of work. I would move it but it works around and over my Pond.”

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Model railroad ballasting

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DCC on LGB Points

David has a G Scale layout and asks readers:

“How do I connect my LGB motor points to my Bachmann dynamis via a ESU point controller. I would like to understand the wiring diagram as the LGB points only have two connections and you have to reverse the connections to open and close them.”

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Glue Roadbed Rock

It is good to hear so many are returning to the hobby. I’m sure this blog will be a big help.

John ask:

“I am going back to model RRing after over 30 yrs and putting the rock down for the tracks has been time wasting. I thought about doing this. Take clear packing tape, sticky side up, then place the flex track in the center of the tape. Once the track is secure, then put the roadbed rock down on the tape. I have not tried it as it, due to moving, but has anyone else tried this? Glue would then not be necessary.”

John, there is some good advice on track ballasting in the model train help ebook.

N Scale Model Train Layout

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Standard fitting For Couplings

Ian wants to hear from others in the hobby who have experience with couplings:

“Hi everyone. I have just come back to model railways again but I have found a problem. I have quite a few trains and rolling stock but I’m unable to interchange my coach stock as most of them are different couplings. Is there a standard fitting that would fit all?”

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Model train ballast

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Swapping Trucks On Old Locomotives

Jim has a question for readers and asks:

“I have an old Tyco analog locomotive that I received for Christmas as a child. It is in excellent shape and I would like to use it on my current layout. My set-up runs on digital power. My question: Can I replace the trucks on the locomotive with new digital ones? If so, can I buy just the trucks as opposed to buying a new locomotive and swapping the trucks?”

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