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Problem with code 100 atlas track and peco switches
Sam is experiencing layout problems and reports his whole layout stops sometimes when crossing a switch. Can someone help Sam?
“How can I eleminate a short occuring when the locomotive crossing a switch stops the whole layout. I use code 100 atlas track and peco switches. Insulfrog also DCC layout. It happens mostly with 6 axle locomotives. I have deisel engines engines Atlas, Atheran and Broadway”
Add your feedback or suggestions below.
The Technical Side of Model Trains and DCC Explained
Mike writes:
With digital command control (DCC) decoders are used to control each locomotive. A model railroader can set the decoders address and control speed, special effects and motor performance etc. Most manufacturers provide programming instructions.
Your DCC decoder may need quite a bit of work on your part if you want it to work properly. DCC decoders need to be programmed which some people find confusing.
The thing is that the systems can be very different. Unless you can build your own decoder you will be forced to use someone else’s settings and they may not work for you. Nonetheless, have a look at the DCC decoder schematic and see exactly what your DCC decoder can support.
Luckily there are some DCC decoders that come with the option of DCC decoder programming, such as the NCE and Wangrow systems. In some cases it can be a long and complicated process, but there are several.pdf files out there that will assist you in changing the command station manufacturer’s settings. Some people will find this to be a bit too complicated, but there are others that will actually welcome this complication for the chance to run their railroad in the way that they see fit.
The process of controlling the DCC decoder can be made a bit easier with software intended to control the DCC railroad. There is some software that you could pay up to fifty dollars for, and there is some software that will be completely free. One example of this would be the MRC Prodigy interface for DCC controlled trains.
For added control you can always include DCC accessory decoders, which provide more options than your standard DCC decoder. For the most part these are stationary, and while they are expensive, are quite worth having. Some of these have options for auto-return, lock-block, locked route control, system reset, smart default ops, and many other settings. There are a number of reasons why one might prefer to have one of these, aside from having a control complex.
For instance if you have your train on display and don’t want anyone else to be able to exercise control over it, then you can have the DCC accessory decoders set certain parameters into it. The ability to lock-block will be especially useful in this case.
The only thing you really need to note is that this is not going to be easy by any stretch of the imagination. In some cases you will need to be familiar with computer programming languages, and there are some model train enthusiasts that know more programming languages than some of the seasoned computer technicians. This is can be a big challenge, but it might just be one that you are willing to take on. Are you ready to exercise complete control over your model train set? If so, then prepare to be amazed by the advanced programming and the control of DCC accessory decoders.
The important thing is to be comfortable with the operating system you use. Do not let anyone else in the hobby pressure you into changing from DC to DCC. Some people are comfortable with what they are familiar with and see no need to change to a new system just because someone else raves about it. Both systems have there merits.
Mike writes on a variety of subjects from internet marketing to model trains. Mike is a keen model railroader and has his own model train layout.
Explore a Whole New World of Model Railroads With Precision
Mike Williams writes:
So you have been operating model railroads for a while. Perhaps you have built the ultimate N scale scenery, or an HO layout, and captured a living world within a paper mache landscape. There is nothing quite like looking upon a scene like that frozen in time. Your train set might have people standing in a small rural town, or perhaps the image of people rushing to work in an urban community. No matter what you like, you can just make it better, even if you think that it can’t get any better than this. You would be wrong, because the hobby of model railroading has so much to offer.
DCC model railroading is something that most advanced modelers will inevitably pick up, especially if they enjoy extreme realism in their train sets. This is basically an electrified train system. We are talking about a system where electricity flows through the rails all the time, and you can use a digital control center to help you give orders to your train.
But it doesn’t stop there by any means. There are so many different things you can do with DCC decoder wiring. For example, you can attach a computer system to your setup so that you can control the train’s movement with some basic controls. You might often find things like this at train shows or even in train museums.
There is a common misconception that DCC model trains need to be different from standard model trains. This is not true. In fact, most model trains are sturdy enough to deal with the DCC system. The DCC decoder wiring involved installing the decoder within the train, and fortunately most trains have a universal frame or undercarriage these days. There was a time when they did not match up, but that was changed as the model railroad hobby grew in popularity.
Don’t forget that you can also add a DCC sound system to your train set. There are many sounds available, many of them taken directly from real trains or train museums. Choosing a sound system will be something you have to do on your own, but we do recommend choosing one of the highest quality.
When you are wiring your DCC model train system, you need to ensure that you make it so that you can break down the system easily and move the benchwork. Even if you are not planning to go to any train shows in the near future, it still helps to be able to move the entire setup. You could need to move it to the basement, or maybe you need to just put it in a better location. Either way, the wiring AND the benchwork need to be portable. You might also want to avoid putting the wiring blocks in an inconvenient location so that they don’t break as you drag the table.
We’ve just scratched the surface here regarding DCC trains. There is much more to learn, so head over to your local model shop today. Ask, inquire, buy e-books, whatever you have to do. Don’t be put off by complicated sounding terms like: DCC model train system, or digital control center… just try to learn a little each day and it will all make a lot more sense. There is a huge world of model railroading out there waiting for you. Enjoy it!
Mike writes on a range of subjects from business to real estate to model trains. Mike is a keen model railroader and enjoys sharing his model train tips.
Code 75 Flex Track On Corners
Michael has a question for readers and asks:
“I have just purchased a box of Peco Code 75 track. My question is; are there any tips some one can let me have on laying the code 75 flex track, on corners.”
Add your feedback below.
DCC Peco OO Track SL100 POWER CAB Set Up
Raymond has a question for knowledgeable model railroaders and asks:
“I,m working Dcc and using Peco OO Track SL100. Can a reader piont me into the right pionts to use, and should I use insulators on one side off the track before the pionts? I will have the NCE POWER CAB set up and NCE smart booster SB3a. I would not like to lay track then have to uplay to put isulators in. Regards Raymond. ps my locos are over 20years old and run OK with decoders tcs t1 on test track.”
Comment below.
Where To Buy Model Train Parts Online
Timothy doesn’t know where to look on the internet to buy these model train spares and is wanting guidance from experienced model railroaders who buy model train parts online. Here is Timothy’s question:
“I need traction tires for a #242 4-6-0 Mantua/Tyco Dixie-Belle Western Atlantic Steam Locomotive. I also need a “Knob” that raises and lowers a Tyco #932 Boom/Crane car. Where can I buy these parts on the internet?”
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Boys Life Speed Control From 30 Years Ago
Bob has an HO question for readers and asks:
“I would like to build speed controllers like they had in Boys Life about 30 years ago. Does anyone remember them?”
Are You An Experienced Model Railroader?
If you answered yes to that question, then perhaps you are able to help others by answering some of their model railroading questions on this blog? On the other hand, you could keep all your knowledge and experience to yourself and not share it with those who could really benefit from your thoughts and who would appreciate your suggestions. It is really your choice, but please remember this blog is operated as a free service and it does rely 100% on the contributions from people like you. We want to keep it free, but to do that we need regular contributors who are prepared to answer some of the many questions that get asked. The alternative is for us to pay someone to answer all the questions, but then we would have to charge a subscription to the blog and we don’t really want to do that.
So, if you can help by answering some of the questions on this model train blog, then please do.
Valve Gear Driven From Connecting Rod
Colin wants to hear from readers with any knowledge of valve gears and connecting rods:
“I am rebuilding several oo flying Scotsman chasis which is all new stuff. My problem is the valve gear and conrods. Fitting the valve gear into the pistons seems straight forward, and fitting the spacer bearing between the conrod and valve gear which is secured with a small screw into a brass stud which is located in the centre, driving wheel 4-6-2 seems not to difficult. Now the conrods and rivets which in turn fit into the front and rear wheel either side of the driving wheel. When all assembled it won’t turn freely. Now I have soldered the rivets into the conrods, could this be the problem? These rivets are not easy to solder in. I hope I have explained the problem well enough for someone to answer.”
Comment below.
Atlas #200 Snap Relay for LED Trackside Lamps
John (not the one in the earlier post) has sent in this HO question for readers to hopefully answer. You can comment below.
“I am trying to wire an Atlas #200 snap relay for trackside signal lamps using red and green LED lamps. I have followed the directions in the package but I am not sure were to install the resistors. Also the LED need to have a positive and negative feed. How to you know on the AC side of the power pack which is positive and negative?”
British Railways, Couplers and Trains
John has kindly sent in this story for publication:
Coupler problems is a subject very near and dear to me. On British trains the couplings on the older stock ( I am modelling the late 1940s) were screwed up tight. Coaching stock with gangways coach to coach were very close. If models are shop bought then they are designed for 2ft radius curves i.e. the toy market. But my layout will only have a few curves as tight as 3ft radius on turnouts ( sorry “switches” in your language). So not wanting my trains to have about 10ft between coaches I am working my way through my stock modifying couplings so as to have that “bunched-up” look to my trains. With experimentation I have decided to aim for about 5/32 of an inch between buffer faces. This gives satisfactory clearance for 3ft radius curves (00gauge).
The trains look really good at this and the gangways are so close as to appear joined. I know that joined-up gangways are available and perhaps I will at some point fit them. But I do have reservations in this regard not wanting to detract from the ease of changing coaches in a train.
The flexibility of the make-up (what I believe you call “consist”) was a feature of the old-fashioned loco-hauled trains of my era. If a train arrived at a junction station then one or two coaches could be added if there were through coaches from the branch or a coach or coaches could be transferred from the main line train to the branch. Luggage cars and parcels vans could be transferred from one train to another and so on.
The modern diesel (and electric) trains in their rigid formations have lost this flexibility, a flexibility which was responsible for attracting the public to use trains. The Great Western Railway was famous for its slip coaches for example.
Here in Britain we have lost all our branch lines, there is very little freight movement and I am sure that you will be aware that it is freight that makes a railway profitable. We have all but lost our manufacturing industry, factories close down on a daily basis, are dismantled and become supermarkets, housing estates and warehousing for imported, foreign-made goods which the British public in general, cannot really afford!. This is because everything we buy of a manufactured nature is made in China.
Mail, oil, food, even refurbished railway coaches, ALL go by road, even carrier racing pigeons are sent out by road now. Our roads are cluttered up with huge lorries far too large for our little thoroughfares.
Yet the railways are under ever increasing pressure to carry more and more passengers on a railway which is a bare skeleton of what our railways once were. I am sure that the press of numbers of passengers is not because the public is ATTRACTED to trains but simply because our roads are so crowded now that journeys on those roads have become so unpredictable due to the press of more and more cars. We are fast becoming the most over-crowded country in the world and soon the railway train will be the only satisfactory mode of travel. Even the skies have become overcrowded with aircraft!
I have rather got off the subject of couplings but hope you will understand that I want to model a REAL railway!
Locating Faulty Rail Connections
David has a question for readers on locating a faulty rail connection. David says (in his words):
“This question comes from a complete idiot where electrics are concerned! Is there an electrical meter I can purchase which will quickly locate a loose rail connection which in turn is causing loss of power to the track? Would a continuity meter be the answer or am I talking nonsense? I have never used a multimeter if indeed that is the answer so I am hoping for something even an idiot like me can use. Any help would be greatly appreciated.”
If you can assist David, then please add your comments below.
Peco 55 Track on Woodland Scenics Track Bed ST1475
Mick has a question for anyone who can answer it:
“I an setting up my first DCC N-Scale layout using Peco code 55 Track on Woodland Scenics track bed ST1475. I am also using Peco switches. However, my locos (e.g. InterMountian FTA/B pair) usually sits and spins the wheels on the track – conductivity, but no traction. There are also spots where the 16v DCC is present (as measured using a VOM on AC setting), but the train sits. What can I do to correct this BIG problem?”
Add your answer or feedback below.
Decals Transfers For RR Layout
Paul is having trouble locating decals and asks readers:
“Where can I find decals and transfers for PRR? Haven’t had any luck finding sites with them.”
Add your feedback and suggestions below.
Changing American Locos into European Style
Antonio has a question on HO train couplers:
“What is the best and easiest way to transform American style locos with kaddee style couplings into european style rolling stock with standard (european) couplings and buffer beams?”
Comment below.
DCC Conversion
Fred has a question for those who have already converted to DCC and asks:
“My HO track setup was huge project for me, being a first time model railroader. It is a C shaped setup that is 8′ x 12′ with a 4′ x 4′ square cut out in the middle where the control board is located. I forget how many feet of track there is, but it consists of four separate power systems that are all connected so I can run a train off one system on to another system.
There is also an elevated track looping around the entire setup. The control board I designed myself and is extensive. There are the four transformers for the four separate systems, and then another four transformers to power all the switches and lights (the lighting system is very extensive and requires a lot of power).
My question is what is involved in switching to DCC? I have so much work as well as money invested in what I have now but I read about the things that you can do with DCC that it makes me really interested in making the switch. But I know nothing about it and what I have to do to make that switch. How much of my control board can I use and what needs to be removed and replaced? I know the answer would be pretty involved, but I’ll take whatever advice anybody can contribute to this question.”
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Planning Track Layout
Jeff has a question for experienced model railroaders and asks:
“When starting out, do you lay down your tracks first to get an idea of how it will end up?”
Comment below.
Heights of oo Gauge Tunnels and Bridges
Mike has a question for anyone with experience in oo gauge tunnel and bridge building:
“In oo gauge, what are the tunnel and bridge safe heights?”
Add your suggestions below.
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