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Model Train Sound Effects
Ho enthusiast Don asks:
“I am looking for a system to imitate rail yard sounds. Huffing & Puffing, bells, whistles. Something with a push button at the controls to sound the imitation noise of a train for my grandchildren to hear when operating the trains. Any such product out there? Seems like a no-brainer.”
Hornby A4 Silver Fox Tender Needs Body Replacement
Bill P asks readers:
“One issue that is causing me some background concerns is that I have a near perfect Hornby A4 ‘Silver Fox’ in appropriate Jubilee livery. Sadly there is some damage to paintwork on the tender and I am keen to acquire a replacement as this is one of ‘key trains’. So, if you know where I could seek a body shell for the tender or locomotive & end advise would be appreciated. In the interim I will continue to monitor eBay etc.”
Using a Diluted Cement Mix as a Paint Wash – Will it Work?
Russell asks readers this:
“I have made some PVC pipe silos which are ready for painting and detailing. I will spray a gray color for the cement silos and paint on a metallic color for the rails, silo doors, elevator etc. After that I will try some washes with dry brushing effects and see how that looks.
I thought of using a heavily diluted cement liquid as a wash to make it more real and look weathered. Will this work? I know cement doesn’t affect plastic on a bucket so it shouldn’t affect the plastic parts – well thats what I assume?
I guess the alternative would be to just mix various shades of paint wash using a light gray, with a touch of light tan, and dab of black paint to darken it in places? Has anyone tried these various options?”
How to Light Up a Building
This question comes from online Train Model Club Member Nicholas:
“I want to light up some buildings. What size/type of bulbs and electrical supply do I need?”
The ASK A QUESTION link is under every post if you have a question you would like published.
Noch Briefcase Diorama 87090
Drdaro asks: “I purchased a Noch briefcase diorama the Tirol # 87090. To my surprise there are no operating instructions. Is there anyway I can retrieve one from the manufacturer? I would appreciate any help. I am new at this Hobby.”
Engine Problems With Train Set
Mark Rauen makes this observation of a model train set he purchased:
“I cannot speak to anything other than what I have but…
I purchased a used Bachmann Diesel Express HO Train Set. In addition I purchased a new unopened Bachmann Track Pack (Steel Alloy E-Z Track with black bed.) When I run the train around the fixed circle track it runs fine, when I run it on an oval it is fine up to about 80% throttle. When I use the turnouts the cars derail almost every time no matter what the speed. These are remote activation turnouts. And here is what happens. (Gleaned from keen observation over a few hours of trying variations of numerous adjustments and work arounds.)
When the turnouts are set for the straight away the cars can be run up to full speed without derailing. When the turnout is switched to the curve the cars derail as soon as the trailing end of the engine starts the turn.
Here is my opinion of the problem; poor design and cheap construction.
Let me explain.
When my engine is traveling straight everything is fine, when the engine starts into the the 18″ radius turn the coupler moves a bit to the left or right. (I have the old style HO Universal Horn Hook couplers.) This pushes the coupler on the rolling stock coupler, which is still moving straight, to the right or left. At up to 80% throttle the rolling stock can handle this pressure and stay on track. At full speed it will derail 1 out of 5 times. When it hits the turnout it will ALWAYS derail at any speed. The reason is the locomotive coupler pushes sideways on the stock coupler too hard and the taper of the cheap plastic wheels forces the forward truck of the stock to move in the opposite direction of the turn. This causes the front wheels of the forward truck to ride up on and over the rail. The lighter the rolling stock the easier it is to derail. I tried adding weights to the front of the stock and saw a minor improvement, 1 out of 10 times it stayed on the track at up to 40% power.
This is where I place the blame squarely on the design. From my experience the rolling stock is far too light. They added a lot of weight to the engine for obvious reasons but then they made the cars as light as possible to save on cost. It would have been nothing for them to add a weight in the base of the car or even in the trucks of the stock themselves.
In my opinion this ‘toy rolling stock’ offers nothing but frustration to new people like me and my grandson. I suspect that the weight needed to keep these cars on the track would cost the manufacturer a few cents per axle? I think this is right because that is what I paid for the material and I am not a factory buying in large quantity.
I have bought my last Bachmann product, not even used.
Can You Ballast Bachmann EZ Track?
Another Online Train Club Member Steve posted this question:
“I’ve finally got most of my track down. I used Bachmann EZ Track. Now that it’s down I wouldn’t mind having a go at ballasting. A friend warned me against it and suggested maybe just painting it to add realism. Has anyone ballasted EZ track with any success or is it a crazy idea?
The Difference Between a Single Slip and Double Slip
Online Train Club Member Henry J sent in this question for readers:
“Maybe the old brain isn’t working right (not an uncommon occurrence :), but I’m confused about understand the differences between a single slip and a double slip and what each does?”
Replacing Old Couplers With Kadee Lookalikes
Ross wants to hear what others think:
“I am looking to replace the horn hook couplers on several older freight cars. I spotted some Kadee clones that will fit into the coupler mounts on the trucks. Am I wasting my time buying the knock-off clones which are cheaper, or should I stick with Kadee. I know sometimes you pay extra for a brand name. Does anyone have experience using both?”
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