Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Ideas for Desert Scene Wanted
Morgan is looking for ideas and inspiration from experienced railroaders:
“I am planning a totally false HO model rr. It is the PRR in west TX. Now, the layout is shelf, and minimal scenery. But, has anyone experience with modeling the desert/mountain area of west TX? What is the best ballast to use? What colors of paint should I buy and where can I get pictures of the tracks out there? I live near DFW and can’t get to the west. Don’t drive anymore, etc. Best of all would be pictures of your model rr with that type of scenery. Thanks.”
Readers can add a comment and/or upload a photo using the COMMENTS link under Morgan’s post.
HO Track Separation
Online Model Train Club Member Ben submitted this query:
“I have limited space so want my opposing tracks close enough not to waste space, but far enough apart not to cause collisions or look fake. How far apart should I make them?”
Add your comments (or view all comments) using the COMMENTS link. Submit a question using the ASK A QUESTION link. Easy!
Nightmare Wiring Switches
A question for readers from Phillip in Chatswood, Sydney, Australia:
“My single track layout will be laid out over 2m by 3m. I’ve never wired switches but read up about it a bit and want to know the pitfalls to avoid in advance. Much appreciated for letting me post this.”
Submit your question to the Blog Moderator for publication by using one of the ASK A QUESTION links on this blog.
Walthers Cornerstone Motorized 130′ Turntable Not Working
Wolfgang posted this question:
“Hello Friends, this afternoon my N scale Walthers cornerstone turntable stopped working. Instead of Power Control LED shows ‘on’ the bridge doesn’t work. What can I do? Thanks for any helpful ideas. I am living in Germany and maintenance by a hobby shop is not easy to get.”
Post your question to the Blog Moderator by using one of the many ASK A QUESTION links on this page.
What’s the Loco Number Limit in DCC Zones?
Geoff has this question:
“I’m new to DCC. I’m planning a small UK OO narrow gauge layout. The system I bought has an output of 2 amps. The circuit protector can have up to six zones, but 1 amp each. The docs say that the 2 amps will power up to 4 HO locomotives at one time, but am I right in thinking that the circuit protector will limit that to 2 in each zone? The docs for the circuit protector say you can connect it in such a way to have 3 zones 2 amps each, which perhaps is what I need to do?”
How Would a Dentist Fill The Gaps Between Tracks?
Online Train Club member Joshua is not a Dentist but asks:
“I know when I go to the dentist he tells be to floss between the gaps in my teeth. He doesn’t seem to want to close the gaps, whereas on my railroad that’s precisely what I want to do. I want to leave tiny gaps 1/32th between track to allow for movement, but I have 4 gaps closer to 1/16th. How can I fill these or should I make an appointment with my Dentist? Ha! Ha!”
Keeping Track of Small Parts
Online Model Train Club member Erik shared this suggestion:
“I know some folk in the hobby use masking tape to hold small screws and parts to stop them rolling under the layout and getting lost. It is a very good idea, but I have another option to add to that.
My local hardware store sells small 5″ bowls with a magnet attached. One of these bowl is ideal for holding small steel parts.”
Auto Reverse Module – Digitrax and MRC Cab Controller Compatibility
William posted this question to readers:
“I have On30 and M.E. track and turnouts and DCC Cab Controller. I would like to install an automated reverse loop (does not to be that big as I will be running Porters with a few mining cars.)
I am electronically “challenged” and could use advice on what all I would need to set it up. I am in the planning stage now but I would like to know how to wire the turnout and loop section up front to see how feasible my idea is to have trains running on a continual basis in and out of the loop without needing to be manually operated. Is a module AR1 or the like all that is needed or do I need some type of ‘block’ detection? And are Digitrax and MRC cab controllers compatible as far as these loop modules concerned?”
What Height Should A Water Tower Be?
David models in HO and has this question:
“I want to build a water tower for stream engines. Can anyone give size I need to build one please?”
If you would like to have your question published, simply use the ‘ASK A QUESTION’ link below one of the blog postings. Your question will then be reviewed by the Blog Moderator and when approved will be published. Note – some question don’t get published if they are confusing, lack the necessary details, or have bad spelling etc. It is the Blog Moderators job (a voluntary position) to maintain a good quality for the benefit of all readers.
Trains Ran Well Before Ballasting
Rhalf models HO and has this question:
“My trains were running well until I ballast half the track. Now I find I have no power to the track at all where whereas I did before.
I have been relying solely on rail joiners to transmit current between track sections, so I suspect adhesive or bits of ballast have probably fallen into the joiners somewhere on the track…creating an insulated joint.
Do I need to solder the rail joiners to the track? If so, how far apart? I thought maybe I should add a feeder to each section of track giving each its own power supply? Feedback would be good.”
Truck and Coupler Replacement on Passenger Cars
Robert M models N scale and asks:
“I am just starting out in model railroading and would like to change the trucks on my passenger cars to 6 wheel trucks with knuckle couplings. I am not sure what would work best and would appreciate any advice and suggestions. I have little knowledge in terms so it would have to be rather straight forward. Thanks.”
Adhesives for Wiring a Slip Switch to Control a Model Railroad Turnout
Bert poses this question and hopes for feedback from knowledgeable model railroaders:
“I want to use a slip switch to control a model railroad turnout. I have fabricated linkages using Evergreen Styrene and heavy florist wire. The connection between the turnout points and the slip switch is two pieces of wire connected with a styrene tube forming one continuous rod. Try as I may, I have yet to find an adhesive that will significantly bond the wire inside the styrene tube. Even though I allow an adhesive to cure for 24 hours, after a few toggles on the switch, the wire becomes loose and is no longer attached.
Any thoughts on what adhesive I should pursue? Thus far I have used Insta-Cure CA Super Thin, Maxi-Cure CA Extra Thick, Tamiya Extra-Thin Cement, and Red Baron Adhesive (Thin and Medium).
If the wire/styrene combo will not work, I’ll have use another alternative. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and suggestions.”
0 and 0-27 Gauge Tubular Track
Bill asks readers:
“I am getting back into the hobby after 50+ years so I have numerous simple minded questions. Want to keep my Marx 999 on 0-27 gauge tubular track and I am thinking about going to Fastrack 0 gauge for my Lionel 1615. Do they still make 0-27 gauge tubular track? Where can you buy it new?”
Spot The Difference – Layout at Australian Model Railway Show
I’ve had several requests to run some more SPOT THE DIFFERENCE puzzles as it’s been some time since I ran the last one. See how you go with this photo taken at a model train show in Queensland, Australia. The scene features a small country town. At first glance the photos look identical, but there’s actually 9 differences. How many can you find?
Simply add your answers using the COMMENTS link below.
Connecting a DCC System to the Track
Don has this question for readers:
“Until now I have been totally DC, but thought I might test the waters with DCC. I recently purchased a Bachmann GP9 DCC locomotive and am running it in DC mode.
I’m just now sure how DCC systems get connected to the track. Are they connected the with two wires like on DC? And, if at any time I want to disconnect the DCC system and reconnect my DC transformer so I can operate my older my DC locomotives, can I do that? Depending on how I get on I might look at converting a couple of my older DC engines as I understand that’s possible?”