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model scale railroad houses to construct ho scale n scale oo gauge

Planning

Which EZ Track To Use

Darren who models HO asks:

“I’m using EZ track and am planning to add a two-stall engine shed to my layout. Which track should I use to have two lines run into the shed before combining just after exiting the shed? Will there be any likely issues?”

Post your comments below, or use the ASK A QUESTION link to have your own question published.

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Which Industries To Model

Allan posted:

“I’ve decided on N scale for my new layout which has the potential to be 2ft-3ft deep in places in my 8ft x 10ft space. I also decided to model the late ’90s to the present day, but haven’t yet decided on an industry (industries) to incorporate. I had thought of logging & lumber, but there are probably better options these days. Ideas are definitely appreciated! Thanks in advance!”

You can contribute your suggestions below.

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Wiring for Susquehanna Valley & Gulf Summit

Jon B has been an N scale modeler since 1978 and posted this:

“Yours truly is in process of building the Susquehanna Valley & Gulf Summit N Scale layout. It first appeared in 1970 as ‘Nine Atlas N Scale Model Railroads’ as Layout N-109. There was a 2nd edition revised in August of 1976. Some years ago, a modeler published a DCC wiring version. Today, the same N scale layout is known as Atlas Layout N-18.

Drum roll, please…

My question is – Do any of you know where I can get a wiring schematic that will allow DCC on the Upper Level and DC with TWO DC controllers for the bottom level?

The rationale for this is yours truly wants to operate the upper level while two grandsons operate the DC version on the lower level.”

Please add your comment or suggestion below to assist Jon.

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Preferred Track for Beginners Layout

Andy sent in this question:

“I am planning an 1800×1200 (6×4) N scale layout of logging & mining operations. It has been almost 40 years since I last had anything to do with Model RRs. What is the preferred track type for use that is available in Australia? Thank you in anticipation.”

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Fascia Material

Anthony posted this question:

“The edge of my 4ftx8ft layout is untidy so I’ve decided to add a facia of some kind to smarten it up. What material would you recommend I use without breaking the bank?”

Send in your question for publication (use the ASK A QUESTION link below), or add an answer/suggestion (use the COMMENTS link below).

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Inner and Outer Helix Tracks

Graeme asks:

“I am looking at a double-track HELIX, is there a way to have some indication of the outer track and inner tracks? I am using the following Numbers for A=31.6, B=3.75, C=19.5, (was using D=6, but now D= 7, to accommodate, some special POINTs/Switches E=8. I am looking at having 3/8th threaded rod for supports. I am also looking at the 8 Sections, (1/2 inch thick) per ring to be of a special shape, having the JOINING portions at an ANGLE and to be grooved on these Ends and have an INSERT (3ply) for each join, to be screwed only.”

Add your thoughts below if you can assist Graeme.

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First Build For HO Switching Layout

More photos kindly supplied by John Reitz. Says John “These buildings are the first build of your products for my HO switching layout. And I am very pleased with how they look. Much more detail needs to be added for interest. I really like the weathered look the structures have. Saves time and money for painting.”

John has cleverly added his own personal touches to some of these buildings such as leaving a couple of roller doors open and adding the numbers above them on plan 494. I’m sure you’ll agree that John has done a great job and has made a good start on his switching layout. Well done John!

handmade scale models ho switching layout

More photos below.

These plans can be downloaded at https://www.modelbuildings.org/background-buildings

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My Railroad Without Scenery

Phil models HO and writes:

“My main interest is in the technical aspect of the hobby and I built my own control panel. The problem, a perceived problem, is my layout still doesn’t have ballast let alone a tree. I know I should make a start on the scenery, but it really doesn’t interest me. I’m almost too embarrassed to let non-railway people see my layout because their eyes gloss over when I start talking about Arduino, switching, and tech stuff. Their first question is always along the lines of, when are you going to add some trees and animals? I know it’s my layout, but I feel I should make the effort. Can someone reassure me I am not the only total geek in the hobby?”

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Mixing HO and N scale To Add Distance?

Gerry asks readers:

“I have a small 30inch wide x 16inch deep space quite a bit behind my HO track that I want to bring into use independently of my main layout. It could be used for staging or some yard ops… very limited. I can access it easily from the side. Your thoughts on using N scale trains and structures to give the sense of that area being further away. I presume others have done this type of thing?”

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Staging Requirements

Merv has some good questions:

“Just relocated to our new home and will be upgrading to a 10ft x 8ft layout. A giant leap for me, can’t wait! Before getting ahead of myself though I thought would ask – how much staging should I allow? How many tracks? Should I do continuous staging instead of stub-end staging?”

Share your feedback in the COMMENTS below.

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Bachmann Track Base Firmness

Lakshmi models HO scale and asks:

“I have set up my tracks on a strengthened glass platform (very firm and not soft). Will there be a problem of bounce and derailment, due to the firmness of the base?”

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DCC on Older Engines?

Kerry posted this:

“My Grandkids found some 20+ brand new–not out of box high-quality HO engines and full consists for each, that I purchased some 10-20 years ago but never built another layout until now. I am building one now but am not familiar with DCC at all. I have built several layouts before but have no experience with this DCC stuff. How would I know if these engines are convertible to DCC? What is a good guesstimate on the costs of converting them? Can I do this or should I just build it as DC? Thanks.”

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Pre-Made Benchwork

Mark posts:

“Carpentry is not my forte, and wondered if the pre-made fabricated benchwork I’ve seen sold is any good?”

Contribute your thoughts below.

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Minimum Track Radius Measurements

Online Train Club Member Allan contributed this article.

minimum track radius dimensions measurements model railways

Everyone has limited space for their layout, so compromises need to be made when scaling the size of a real prototype railroad down to fit in the size of the average garage or spare room.

Real railroads need miles of space. The fact is; a real train can be around 90 to 120 cars which can stretch out for 1 to 1 1/4 miles. When the train gets moving it will travel for tens or hundreds of miles. For the engineer to stop the train quickly at 55 miles an hour, would likely require more than a mile of the track using the emergency brakes.

The big challenge for the hobbyist is to condense the track, countryside, mountains, etc into a fraction of the space without making the perspective look forced or too unnatural. In the real world, one mile equates to 5280 ft or 63360 inches which, when converted to HO scale reduces to 60ft or 728 inches. That’s still a huge space to replica just one mile of a real railroad. On N scale a mile is 33ft or 396 inches. This becomes even more problematic when straight track transitions into curved track to allow the train to change direction.

Track types model trains railroads

Turning Trains Takes Space

A person can stop on the spot, rotate, and continue walking in any direction they want. Road vehicles have a reasonably small turning circle in relation to their length and width, but a 90 to 120 car train (real or scale model) needs a considerable distance to change direction without derailing. This is why track radius is so important.

Prototype curves scale down to the following in HO scale:

  • Mainlines – 130 inches
  • Mainlines in mountains – 100 inches
  • Branch lines – 70 inches
  • Sidings and Yards – 50 inches

Working to those measurements will still require a big layout space. That’s where the compromise needs to come into play when replicating a real railroad to a greatly reduced scale. The larger the radii on a layout, the more life-like the layout would look, and the smoother trains will operate.

Keeping with HO scale, a radius of 48 inches or even larger would be optimal. However, this is not a perfect world, so working within a smaller space will necessitate the use of smaller radii curves.

The following benchmark would apply in HO scale:

  • Preferred minimum radius – 32 inches
  • Conventional radius – 24 inches
  • Sharp curve radius – 18 inches

So, even with dreams of creating a perfect miniature replica of a real prototype railroad, reality kicks into play. The distance a train travels, and the radius of curves are just two of the things that will necessitate compromise. The trick is to accomplish this without abandoning the goal of achieving reasonable realism and smooth operation.

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What Scale For New Model Train Layout?

Andy sent in this question:

“I’m in the very early stages of planning a layout which won’t be started for at least 12 months. The absolute max area will 12 x 5 feet. Probably a bit smaller than that. Based on the logging and mining operations on Vancouver Island pre 1950s, I will include, a logging camp, a coal mine, and a small port. I was thinking of using N scale but there aren’t as many detailed accessories as available in HO. Any suggestions, please? Thanks.”

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Replacing Existing Track on an Older Layout

Steve sent in this question and diagram:

“I am completing a layout started by my father over 50 years ago. He had used Atlas brass code 80 (black ties) flex track on cork roadbed, all nailed down, soldered connections. My redo will model mid-century passenger trains from California through the Rocky Mountains. I would like to replace it with a nickel silver track. The total run length is about 80′ (not counting yards). I have 34′ of Atlas code 55 & 35′ of Peco code 80, both brown tie flex track. Not enough of either to complete the changeover. I like the look of the Atlas 55, but code 80 is stiffer, but ties are farther apart. Which would have more options for matching turnouts?”

N scale track layoutThe red is lower track, green is transition grade, blue is upper level. N scale, each square is 1’ x 1’.

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Confusion Laying Track

Nick writes:

“After spending a lot of time on updating myself with the model railroading methods used these days. I have obtained a lot of the supplies I need to begin my project. However, I believe I am now suffering from ‘information overload’ when it comes to the method I will be using to start laying track.

I was all set to nail my cork and track to the benchwork and I really like the use of foam board for some areas of my layout that I have seen many modelers using in the videos that I have watched.

Now I’m just staring at everything, not knowing what to nail, should I use caulk or liquid nails? I don’t need a lot of detail but if you would share your choice of track laying method you prefer I hope it might help me out moving forward with some confidence. Thank you.”

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Wiring For DCC

Nick is planning an HO layout and asks:

“I am starting a new layout after a 25-year absence from the hobby. I am excited to embrace some of the newer updated equipment and model railroading methods used today. I have already purchased a lot of new tracks to replace all of the old brass tracks from the ’70s. My plan moving forward is to construct my new layout using DCC. Is it good practice to do so 100% or is there a reason why I should still wire the layout in DC first? I only have one (1) good loco left from the ’70s. In addition, is it recommended that I install all the switches and turnouts in DCC?
Your thoughts please?”

Please add your comments below to assist Nick.

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