Scenery
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Pradyot from the UK models in N Scale and has this question for readers:
“What is the correct height of a telegraph pole in N scale? The height of signal post please? ”
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Dennis from Brisbane in Australia sent in this question for readers:
“I am planning my layout around an Australian theme and thought I would include a Aussie desert scene. Has anyone any ideas for making realistic looking reddish sandy scenery like in the Australian outback. Could I use real sand? If you have any thoughts then please tell me the answer. Ta.”
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Plans for 8 Houses & 4 Garages – Click Here
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Ed models HO and asks:
“Have peat loco. I want to landscape an area of my layout to a peat bog. Does anyone have any ideas to achieve this scenic look?”
13 Plans for a Wild Western Town
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Daniel has O gauge and asks:
“Has anyone out there tried to use the risers and incline foam pieces with O gauge? Their risers and inclines are 2 1/2” wide, but their roadbed is 2 3/4”. Obviously a mismatch. I like the process better than trying to cookie cutter the pieces. Maybe, there is a way that still looks ok. Thanks for any experience.”
Ron K has N scale and asks readers for advice:
“I want to model a small fire scene in a building complete with smoke, flames, fire trucks etc. Can someone give me some hints on how to make this look real?”
Ron, I included a couple of fire scenes I spotted at recent train shows.
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Roy sent in this photo he captured at the Chiltern Model Railway Exhibition in the UK. This worker looking over the rail certainly adds life to the scene.
“I looking at buying some pastels for weathering and I saw some advertised as soft acrylic pastics, some are described as hard pastels and some say chalk. I’m just not sure which is best for weathering plastic, wood, and card buildings and the track. I’ve also heard that people apply Dullcoat first so the pastels have some to grip to. Is that right, or would a simple paint base coat do the same?”
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Pam sent in this question for readers:
“Our new HO layout will have a small park with seating, ornamental trees and shrubs, and a flower garden. I’m in charge of the scenery, and Bill my hubby, is the boss of all the tricky electrical stuff. Just as well because I have no idea on anything technical. Anyway, I thought it might be nice to add a feature water fountain (not real water) in the middle of a small pond in the park. Has anyone made a decorative fountain that looks like it’s spouting water? I remember those fiber lights that were popular a few years back and wondered it they might work? I was also wondering what to use for the concrete fountain itself? Any ideas please.”
More info on how to make these walls and bridges here.
Richard sent in this question for readers to comment on:
“I have been using ‘Chicken Grit’ to form side roads and parking areas around grain mills, and other rural buildings. The ‘grit’ is usually mixed with chicken feed since they need a form of ‘grit’ to aid digestion. Grit can be granite, sea shells, etc that is ground, however I have been unable to find small enough grit (HO size) in familiar yellow/brown colors of crushed limestone used here in upper Midwest of USA. Thus I have had to airbrush the grit to the proper color and then when dry (had to spread to paint) then collect and spread on a base of white glue and water to allow it to adhere to the sub-base of lot or roadway. Just wondering if/what others might use to obtain similar lot and road cover in the light yellow/tan color. Most grit is a bit too large and sand seems a bit to fine. Thanks for any comments of suggestions.”
Larry has an HO layout and asks readers:
“I have just made a passenger train station (got the plans from this site) and I’m really happy with it. My question relates to positioning the train platform close enough to look authentic (I don’t want my passengers leaping across a gap to safely board the train), but far enough away so the cars don’t hit the platform. What is the correct clearance?”
Andrew sent in this photo he shot at the Pontefract Model Railway Exhibition in the UK. He was very impressed with the moss and weathering of the wall.
Delru sent in these ideas to share:
“I would like to let folks know how easy it is to add many ‘accessories’ to your table without the train store pricing. For example, we wanted 6 spotlights to highlight various fair rides. Train store cost? $78. We took some small bells, clipped out the ringer, spray painted them flat black, and ran an LED light thru them. Set them upside down (wide bell facing up). Cost? $2.99 for a pack of 24. Just want to encourage people to think outside the box. Now looking for O scale swans to use as rides on an HO Tunnel of Love. Trains are expensive, but your layout accessories don’t have to be.”
Ernie models HO scale and asks readers:
“What’s the best way to use Realistic Water? I’ve tested it by pouring a small amount on course and fine styrofoam and even acrylic painted the bottom and it ate right through it. I tried a thin layer of plaster but that didn’t work either.”
Gary from Alberta in Canada sent in these photos to share:
I’m not planning to build a large train layout, as I would prefer to build very detailed dioramas instead, mainly because I model in several different gauges…HO, Hon3, Hon30, On30 and G scale. Attached are some photos of some dioramas I’ve completed in HO and Hon30 scale. One of the photos shows a very small diorama on a black turntable. The size of the model is 4″ x 6″ (10.16cm x 15.24cm) and is in Hon30 scale. It was a challenge to the members of our club to build a scene on a block of wood that size.
I also built an HO scale diorama that had nothing to do with model trains. It was of a turn-of-the-century house that was constructed to fit into an enclosed case. It was built as a wedding present for my granddaughter, who lives in Melbourne, Australia. My wife and flew down there for the wedding in November and had to hand carry the diorama from Calgary, to Melbourne, via Los Angeles. I had to wrap it to fully protect it, and still be able to open it up for security and customs checks. Thankfully, I was able to get it to the wedding in one piece.
Gary – I couldn’t open the file you sent with captions, so perhaps you could add some comments using the COMMENTS link under this posting.
Harper has HO and asks readers:
“In your opinion, would it be better to have scratch built scenery on your layout, or would it be better to buy people, buildings and trees from hobby shops.”