Troubleshooting
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
A couple of quick very basic questions for readers:
Dave asks – “What glue holds track to an HO atlas bridge?”
Craig doesn’t specify brands or model numbers in his question – “Can anyone tell me how I can get replacement parts lists for older HO locos that I’m trying to get back together?”
Dave and Craig you might like to add more details using the COMMENTS link below, as this might help readers suggest solution.
David asks readers:
“I’m trying to hook up HO turnout signals with atlas #200 snap relay and Tomar two light vertical signal. Is there difference way from D.C. to Dcc?”
Andrew asks readers:
“I have a 6×4 foot, HO scale, DC layout with 3 separate tracks. Throughout the hot summer my tracks have expanded under the heat and are taking a while to contract back to the right position. Is there anyone out there who can suggest a way to stop this from happening all together or at least not as severe? “
Tom asks readers:
“I’m new to the hobby and I just set up my first HO layout. I’m ready to wire it. I have ten Atlas Snap Switches that need power. Atlas recommends an AC power supply that puts out 15 -16 VAC @ 2 – 3 amps. Such a supply seems impossible to find. I’ve seen many people recommend an old computer supply, cellphone charger, etc. . . . but these all put out a DC current. Is there any reason I can’t use DC on the Atlas Snap Switches? (I have two old computer supplies, one puts out 32V @ 3.5 amps, the other 20V @ 11 amps.) Will either of these work without burning out the Snap Switches?”
David who models HO asks readers:
“I went to DCC on my train setup. I want to have a signal to let me know when the turnout is not on main track. Can anyone advise me on doing this?”
“On a helix calculator – what is meant by a segment length? Is it measured from what point to what point?
There is a free helix calculator tool at here.
Shaun asks readers:
“At a recent train show I bought a Vintage United Brass 4-8-4 Loco & Tender. I appears to be in reasonable working order but over the years has obviously accumulated plenty of dirt and grime on the shell. I don’t want to damage it trying to clean and restore it. How can I do this WITHOUT damaging the finish?”
James asks this question:
“I want to change some of my rolling stock wheels from plastic to metal. What size 33/36 is the best?”
Another beginner Larry asks this question:
“I’m relatively new to model railroading and have numerous cars and engines with the horn/hook couplers. I would like to change over to knuckle couplers. The ones I have tried don’t match the height gauge I’m using. They are a little low. Any help is appreciated. “
Dennis models in HO scale and asks readers:
“One of my locos is playing up and won’t work when it’s on the track. If I lift it up slightly from the rear with the front wheels still on the track, the wheels start turning like normal. I’m only having this problem with one loco, the rest are fine. Does someone know a likely cause? Thank you in hope.”
Aaron sent in this tip to share:
“I have just recently gotten into railroading and I love it so much. I have run into multiple issues so far but see them as challenges and enjoy finding fixes for my issues. One thing I would like to share that I haven’t seen on any site yet that you will find your rail joining so much easier if you trim the little excess metal from the joiners after you cut them from the strip. This will guarantee that they don’t use up too much area in the joints and cause a gap. Thanks for letting me share and happy railroading.”
Michael S asks readers:
“I thought I was doing the right thing by using flex track in my tunnel, but I am experiencing derailments. I do have a rail join in the tunnel curve and I suspect that could be the issue. Your help please.”
Phil asks readers:
“How do I stop my N scale trains from uncoupling and jumping the track?”
Steven hasn’t supplied a photo, but sent in this question on how to prevent rust:
“I recently acquired an early 1920’s Ives standard gauge engine with 2 passenger coaches which given their age are still in good shape. There are some scratch’s and chips in the paint but there’s no rust on the bodies. This train was being set out in the trash by an older lady who said it was her late husband’s boyhood train set.
Depending on who you ask, doing a paint restoration would take away in the value of these as antiques, and repainting them at this time isn’t on my to do list. However, I don’t want them to start to rust.
I plan on storing them in double ziplock bags with a light coating of oil until I run them again, and yes the engine still runs which surprised me, and will be running under the tree next week.
I’m open to suggestions on what would be best to keep the train bodies looking original and not starting to rust, and also suggestions on keeping the track from rusting while stored. Thanks in Advance for your advice.”
Steve you can post a photo of the train in the comments section under this posting if you would like to share one.
Although Scott focuses on HO scale, the answers to his question will no doubt be of interest to folk using other scale. Scott asks readers:
“Can double locomotives help out in steeper grade? Can you have two trains hauling many boxes? What is maximum number of boxes can one train can haul? Two trains? On gradients? Thanks.”
Szilard who models in HO has this question for readers:
“Hi! I have a question regarding changing or modifying of Bachmann EZ magnetic couplings for a Märklin short coupling. I have recently bought a Bachmann rail crane and would like to use it in a yard mostly parked up, but occasionally move it. So just wondering if its possible or I can’t make it work?”
Nancy is having a problem with a brand new Lionel Silver Bell Express and asks:
“We purchased an O scale Lionel silver bell express set yesterday. The track is together tightly, the lights and sounds are working, but the train does not move. We took it back to the dealer and it worked on his test track with no problem. Brought it home and it worked for about 2 minutes, then stopped and it won’t move again. Any ideas?”