Troubleshooting
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Jack S asks readers:
“I just dug out my old O scale loco that has a smoke unit and whistle. It has been sitting in a box for years and I think the smoker is clogged up. What’s the best way to fix it?”
Linda has a question for HO enthusiasts:
“Hi – I want to have 3 HO trains running on 3 circle tracks. I want the roadbed type of track and have only been able to find 3 different size curves in the Bachmann EZ track. 15″ 18″ and 22″. The 18″ has a rerailer section that I can get to power that track. But I cannot find how to power the 15 and 22… I saw on a site that you can get the atlas terminal joiners, but do not see how you can install them with the EZ Track roadbed. Help please.”
Kevin (a regular contributor to this blog) finally gets to ask his own question:
“Hi, I live in New Zealand and model in HO scale, however I have a Bachmann 3 truck shay loco and the driving gears on the trucks have cracked, and as such do not drive the loco. I tried contacting the new Zealand agents for replacement steel gears, but they can only supply the plastic ones, and said they could not guarantee that the same thing would happen again. Does anyone know where I can get the steel ones from and approx cost thanks?”
If anyone can assist Kevin, please add a comment under this post.
Ian models OO gauge (similar to HO scale) and asks readers:
“I have converted my circuit layout to DCC and sometimes trains stall. Usually a certain train will pause in a certain place on the layout but not all the time and not all my trains do it. One train pauses not far away from the main feed. Some pause on points, but I have clips fitted to create continuation of current. If anyone can advise on how to eliminate this, I would be grateful.”
Henry asks readers:
“I have an 50 year old DC layout with several different types of locomotives which run smoothly. However, I have a Marklin (3034) Class E41 Electric Unit that runs very sluggish. I have check the pick up shoe which seems to be ok. Why do the other locos run ok but this Marklin one doesn’t?”
A very brief question from Daniel who models 027. Hopefully someone can offer him some advice:
“My engine works but wheels just spin and train won’t move.”
John models OO Gauge and asks readers:
“Help please. I have an old Class 110. 3 car multiple unit Hornby R369 with a 3pole motor which could perform better. So I saw a video on how to change to 5pole, but on my motor armature the new 5pole (Part No X9024) shaft is only 1.99 mm diameter and the old 3pole shaft is 2.37 mm diameter. I am informed that bushes are or were available to fit. Can any one help to find or know who makes them.”
John A asks readers:
“Can anyone tell me how I can anchor the nylon drive cog on my Flying Scotsman, as unlike the brass ones, the main shaft is not grooved and are held by 2 brass inserts. These slide when motor rotates and the engine remains stationary.”
Gary operates O scale and asks readers:
“I am in the process of tying power wiring to an 022 switch, as the center post pulled out from the frame. I know this post is a ground. I can’t find a way of getting it back down. It was probably riveted. I need a solution. Thanks”
Art models N scale and has this question for readers:
“I have watched many seemingly simple videos on DCC wiring and it seems to me that the only real difference from DC is the installation of a bus line and feeders at intermittent spots along the layout BUT the bus location line still has to be connected to the main power source, right? So why does running DCC necessitate installation of a the bus and feeders if ultimately the power is coming from th same main source? Sorry if this is a stupid question. I would love to go DCC to get all the sounds, horns, engines, etc but it just seems like an awful lot of work! I am using Kato unitrack by the way. Thanks in advance for any help!”
Keith has a lighting question for readers:
I run a OO analogue system on my layout.I have 4 types of lights up:
1/ Tardis box
2/ Ice cream van
3/ Security light
4/ Building/street lights
Each of these are run separately but the building and street lights come on but after a short time they fade out and go off. If I leave them for a short while I can turn them back on but again will go off. Can any of your readers give me any advise to rectify this problem. All the power comes off a Hornby HM2000.
Bert models N scale and asks readers:
” When laying flex track on a curve, should the “fixed” rail be on the inner or outer circle? Should this practice be followed throughout the layout for straights and sidings? “
“I read about using Oasis Foam for scenery, but I wonder if it might be messy, too lumpy, or too fake looking? How easy is it to use and color? What can it be used for? Any tips please.”
Oscar asks readers:
“I have a Loco Bachmann H0 GP30 Diesel Loco DCC with a Digitrax DCS 50 Zephir. My question is: the lights, forward and reverse, are in a low intensity. How can I do to put both in high intensity?”
Dale asks readers:
“I live next to the beach in sunny north Queensland, Australia and have my layout setup in our garage. Temperatures average 28 to 36 degrees Celsius. I have an aircon but like to open the side door if it’s not too hot and let the gentle sea breeze in instead of running aircon. Problem is my track has growing patches of rust. Would this be the humidity or maybe the sea spray in the air? Any suggestions for coping with the rust and stopping it getting out of hand?”
Anthony G asks readers:
“I am confused with what wire to use for wiring my track… I will run DCC. Should I use a different gauge for switches, signals, inside structures? What about color coding? I read something about telephone wire – that confused me more. Do I need a different gauge for 12 volt power supply and a different gauge to the track? Any safety issues to watch out for? Can people help coz it’s hard for me to get my head around all this stuff? A lot for me to learn.”
Steve asks:
“I can’t find any info on converting Red Ball locos. I have 2 C-Liners that need to be changed. Any suggestions please?”