Troubleshooting
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Oscar asks readers:
“How can I do to put interior lighting in HO wagons in DCC?”
Murray asks readers:
“I accidentally cut the wires between the loco and tender on my Berkshire N scale 2-8-4 Bachmann Kanawha train. Where can I find the wiring instructions. They don’t seem to be listed on either Bachmann’s site or Sound Traxx’s site. The decoder is marked with symbols R, M+, L+, L-, M- and L. What do they stand for. I’m new at this and any help would be appreciated.”
Duane asks readers:
“I have Bachmann 2 DCC steam locomotives of the same kind. One of them started moving in the wrong direction. I was using a magnet (which is under the track) that came with the Bachmann train system track to uncouple the rolling stock. While, I was in the process of doing so the train was backing up. Then, it goes in the forward direction on its own and stopped working. Did the decoder die? The warranty is no longer good can this be fixed? ”
Terry asks readers:
“I have an old Proto 2000 engine which must have owned for at least 15 years, and I want to install a sound decoder. I am a bit frightened where to start and if I’ll do any damage. Do I need to unhook little computer board behind the motor? I presume the old board was partly used to control the MARS signal-safety light. I do have resistors and LED’s. Will this decoder operate with the board in position, or will I have problems? Any advice on installation would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.”
Reynold asks readers for advice:
“My N scale layout has 78 building yard lights not including the signals which I have spread over 4 transformers. If possible I would like to have them set up to all operate off just one power supply specifically for lighting. Is this hard to do? What would I need as a minimum transformer power output? I am hoping someone can shed some light on the problem – sorry about the bad pun!!!”
Steven has an o-gauge, 3 rail layout and asks readers:
“I have a switch that I put it in a loop, so the engine can come back in a different direction. Problem is; once the switch is in main line straight and the engine goes through it, no problem, but when engine is coming around the loop, the engine approach it for a curve switch and the switch freezes on the straight line and it does not turn to a curve position for the engine to go in opposite direction, which causes a derailment. How can I fix this problem. I have limited space for this layout. Please help!!!!!!!!!! Thanks.”
Alan asks readers:
“I am having frustrating times with my trains derailing – both locomotives and cars. It is the frogs in the switch that is causing the derailments. I have checked and double checked the switch tension to no avail. Can someone guide me to a solution please?”
Rich has a question for readers:
“Sometimes I get derailments with rolling stock as they pass through a Bachmann ez track turnout. Sometimes it derails other time the loco follows the switch direction straight (as it is set) and the next car wants to travel up the switch curve. Any ideas as to why?”
Keith asks readers:
“Why do both my Deltic engines keep blowing my track power?”
Here are 2 brief questions from readers.
John asks: “How do I wire multiple OO point motors up thanks.”
Julie asks: “Does anyone have experience using EL wire to represent long runs of florescent lights? Any advice on doing it?”
Sivert asks readers:
“I have many G -scale locomotives with sound. Next year I plan to make everything in DCC. Will the old sound system work? Are there videos to see how to open the locos so I can install DCC? They are all Bachmann.”
Jack from Canada asks readers:
“Where can I buy working N scale pantographs? I have a GG-1 Kato locomotive but the pantographs keep falling down, no mechanism (springs?) to keep them up. They do not have to supply the current to the motor, that stays on the tracks but it looks dumb to have an electric locomotive without a working pantograph.The Japanese pantographs have no springs in them either and are no help. Please advise.
Nicholas asks readers:
“I am in the planning process of a single HO track that will be a rectangular lay out. The two long straight legs will be 25 feet in length each, and the two short legs will be approx. 15 feet each. Only one assembled train will be operating at a time. Concerns; 1. Will I need two power units or one, 2. What type (power rating, model) will be required to power that much track, 3. Will this require multiple power points through out the line. Thank you for your attention.”
Craig asks readers:
“Is there any way to get more pull out of my HO steam engine?”
Dave asks readers:
“I have older K-line Diesel Engines that have lost exterior parts such as plastic dual horns,etc. Where can I find a dealer or vendor that offers 0 – 027 replacement parts?”
Article contributed by Club Member Andrew Wilkinson
Having a train that stutters and jerks is a common problem raised by model railroaders (especially beginners in the hobby). Believe me, there’s not a lot of fun in having to prod and push a train along the track. However, these problems are often easily rectified, but first the cause(s) needs to be diagnosed.
Obviously keeping the layout (track) and rolling stock (wheels) clean and free from dust and grime is essential, and is more often than not a factor in poor operation.
Humidity can affect track too. Using a dehumidifier can assist in keeping the room humidity to 50-55% range. A tarnished rough track can be problematic as it is likely to have a highly electrical resistant surface. Apart from reducing engine performance, tarnished track can cause wear on the pickup wheels if they become oxidized or dirty.
The same goes for rail joints, they need to operate efficiently. The connection between the each piece of track could provide enough electrical resistance to cause a train to slowdown or pause momentarily, especially on track that is at the other end of the layout. The solution in this case could include replacing worn (or loose) fish-plates and to electrically connect track pieces together using a track-power booster cable.
Any number of other faults can result in erratic operation. With consistent use, washers, insulating bushes, and other electrically devices could show signs of wear and no longer be properly insulating the locomotive chassis electrical parts. Damaged or loose drive gears need to be fixed and properly secured to their shafts. Also watch for any wheels that work loose on their axle shaft.
In a nutshell; model trains rely on the track rails for power. A train will slow down, or even stall, if that connection is inconsistent or broken.
Trains need enough consistent power throughout the course of the journey, whether they are close to the power source or on the other side of the layout. Erratic running could be an indication the trains are not receiving enough power, so you might need to improve the power flow. A drop in voltage can usually be fixed up by including more connections.
A drop in voltage is a likely cause if the train slows or stops just in a certain spot on the track. The distance from the power supply and the track section joints can weaken the power flow. Consider the solutions already mentioned to tighten any loose rail joiners and if needed, run another set of wiring from the power supply directly to the problem section of track. Obviously care needs to be taken to ensure each wire is connected to the correct rail.
With large model layouts, and also with most DCC systems, utilizing a bus wire (with feeders) to multiple track sections is the preferred option. The use of heavier wire (No 14 to No 10 gauge) depending on the scale and run length, is generally more productive than the rails. Smaller (No 20 to No 18) feeder wires can be joined as often as required between the rail and bus. These feeders are often connected at 6 to 12 foot intervals.
Rail joiners can also be soldered. This can definitely reduce the voltage drop, as well as helping to eliminate any rail kinks that could cause a derailment. Leaving a few joiners open will provide some room for expansion and contraction over the course of the year.
I would be interested in hearing other suggestions from readers.
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