Lang wants to hear what others think and asks:

“I am just restarting my interest and activity working with an HO layout. In the process I will need to purchase new locos and/or cars and I am just a neophyte in every respect. My question is – What are the names of the top end hitches and what are the advantages of one version over another?  I will be considering some form of remote hitching an un-hitching. Will appreciate any help.”

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John has a question for readers:

“I have the Hornby 08 shunter (OO) with sound EWSwith sound, when I run it with the sound on it keeps on stopping then starts back up then just repeats itself, but if I run it with out the sound it is okay. Does anyone have any ideas as what to do pleas?”

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Gil asks for your help:

“I have a Bachmann Plymoth Diesel Shunter and a Lifelike Engine (model unknown) which has trucks at either end with plastic gears inside.  Both have worn gears as they are not meshing – where in the world can I buy spare parts or does one just throw them away? If that’s the case no more Bachmann or life like Engines.”

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If you are an experienced model railroader you be able to assist Mike with this problem he is having:

“I recently purchased an HO diesel loco with 6 (3 3) trucks.  The unit keeps derailing as it goes across turnouts.  The problem may relate to my having converted the original layout from 18 inch to 22 inch curves but left the original turnouts in place. If I replace the turnouts with #6’s (22 inch curves) do you think my derailments will be minimized?”

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Ian is asking for advice from readers:

“I have a 00 digital layout and have the digital clips on all points, but still have some problems getting locos to run over them. Any tips to improve the running would be helpful please.”

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Mike has a question for readers:

“I have two HO roco diesel locos that do not have tyres 40069. I cannot see how I have to fit these tyres as there are no screws to undo to expose the wheels. On some of the locos there are two tiny screws to undo to get to the wheels. Can someone help me please. ”

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Archie has a question for other hobbyists and asks:

“I received an email where it mentioned something about car weight. My question is, do ho train cars need to be weighed down any? How can you add weight to a tank car? I’m sure that in a box car you can take it apart and put weight inside but tank cars and flat cars?”

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Jorge asks readers:

“I have a track problem as my train stops all the time and I believe it is dirty track. I’ve tried all ways to clean but still the problem persists. Can someone help me in this matter? I have the MTH system track and o gauge. Thank you.”

Lou sent in this question for others to answer:

“After 40 years I decided to try my hand at model railroading again (boy has it changed). I am 75 and retired so I have to watch the dollars. That being said I went to Ebay to buy used track, and got some really good deals. My question is what is the best way and or product to clean Atlas Brass Track.”

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Ray asks readers for help:

“Where can I get a complete truck assembly for a Marklin z sale crocodile?”

Bruce has a question for those in the hobby who know something about HO P2K refits:

“After many years of not modeling, I have acquired a large number of P2K new in-box engines that I would like to update with sound and as I have heard of many problems with P2K from the early 2000s, it would appear that motor issues are also to be dealt with. Can the P2K shells be used with newer Athearn, Atlas or P2K sound power units? I have a total of 25 units.”

Gil wants advice from others in the hobby and asks:

“I laid my track, and it all ran smoothly. I wired up points – OK – all tested prior to Ballast – when dry went to test with Loco – guess what no power to track. I thought I would remove the Ballast from areas of the power contact, but still no go. Any thoughts would be appreciated.”

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Peter asks readers:

“I hope someone can help me. I have acquired a TOMIX 6421 Track Cleaning Car. Unfortunately the instruction leaflet is in Japanese. Where could I obtain English instructions so that I can use it to clean my tracks. I have tried a number of sources but no-one can offer any positive help.”

Wayne is hoping for some assistance from others in the hobby and asks:

“I recently bought a Bachmann DCC Class 66 and it seems to derail at any opportunity even on a straight run. I have Googled it and found it to be a common problem but cant find any solutions. Has anyone has same problem or know the solution? Thank you.”

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Paul wants advice from others and asks:

“I have one telephone pole in S scale that I got in a box of misc. stuff at a train show. It has clear insulators that look EXACTLY like phone pole insulators. I would like to know if anyone might know where I can find more of these type of insulators. No beads please. Like I said, the six clear insulators on the one pole that I have look just like the old time insulators, so I know that they are out there somewhere.”

Clement asks:

“HI have various Brill Trolleys and all have stopped running or go through a stop and go action. If I push them they will run, but again will stop or stop and go. Can anyone tell me what I’m doing wrong please?”

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Kenneth asks readers:

“It seems all dealers are out of code 80 rail joiners. Is there another rail joiner that will work.”

Rainer sent in this question for readers:

“I have approx 80 bldg. yard lights on my layout (without the signals) spread over 4 Marklin # 67271 transformers I would like to transfer all of them to 1 light designated power supply but can’t find the answer as to what the minimum power output for this transformer needs to be. I truly would appreciate your advice.”

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