Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
1st Radius Curves
Peter models OO and asks:
“Does anyone have a list of locomotives that will negotiate a 1st radius curve, either Hornby or Bachmann? I know all large steam locos will not work but are there any diesel or electric locos that will work. Thanks in advance for any help.”
DCC Crossovers and Return Loops
Christopher asks:
“I have modified my Peco Electrofrog turnouts by cutting the factory connection and soldering one side of the main to one side of turnout and added an AR1 for the return loop, for the crossover I have a dual frog juicer. Both of these still short out. What did I do wrong? How can I solve these problems?”
Too Many Locos To Convert To DCC?
Allan Wright shares these Thoughts:
“A friend across the other side of the country mentioned in passing that he would be sticking with DC because he had so many locos it would be impossible to convert his entire stable to run on DCC. It made me wonder how many others are in the same predicament because, in reality, you don’t need to convert every loco. Most people don’t operate every loco on their layout. If you are like me, you will likely operate a handful of personal favorites… the ones you can rely on. If you were to operate all your locos, you could allow for a line on your layout to be isolated from the DCC circuitry and controlled by DC. For some switches, you could share the line between DCC and DC. Just a few thoughts I wanted to share.”
Model Power EMD – E7 Engine Schematics
Jim models in HO and posted this:
“I have an old ( however, never really used – sat on a shelf for 32 years ) Model Power EMD – E7 engine. where can one find schematics or parts teardown for one of these babies? I would like to get this one running again. It has a power connection problem.”
Which Lubricants to Use on Locomotives?
Chris T asks several questions:
“My mind has been working overtime so I jotted down a few questions re lubes. Apart from which oil(s) are the best to use, can I stick with just plastic compatible oil for everything? I have a new bottle of 3in1 oil which the bottle states can be used on plastic and metal. Is this stuff good enough? I have some LaBelle oil that has been in the shed for probably 20 years. Should I use this or is it too old? It looks ok.
Am I right in thinking the wheels need light oil and open gears will need something heavier? I picked up a couple of old locos still in their boxes. I don’t even think they have ever been run. Will they need lubing before I put them on the track?
A million questions I know and I haven’t even asked about dismantling locos, getting the shells off, and removing screws to get access. I told you my mind was racing. Ha! Ha! I was going to just dive in and do things but as usual, I overthink things and thought it better to ask first.”
Mystery Over 40 ft Grain Load Door Boxcars
Shane posted this question:
“I purchased a whole lot of old Athearn Blue Box kits off eBay. Got a bargain so can’t complain. Included were some 40 ft grain load door boxcars with the door molded on the body. There are hatches near the top of the side doors with no markings. I would like to know when cars of this type where most common – the decade? The railroads where they operated? If I know that I might be able to locate some decal sets?”
Wiring to Power Busses and Soldering Track
Damien posted this question:
“I am planning to solder my track in sections and am aware how a drop in voltage can cause issues. What size wire should I solder to the rails going back to the area power busses? I presume I should run the maximum wire size my DCC controller will allow to my power busses? Advice on wire size and methods would be good.”
Post your question using one of the ASK A QUESTION links under any post on this blog.
Filing Turnouts – Yes? No? and How?
Reece needs guidance if you can help:
“I use Atlas track on my HO layout but have a derailment problem with my new turnout. The cars are in gauge, I checked each one that has derailed. I read to file the ends of the points so the wheels won’t catch, but am unsure about filing the closure and stock rails so they will perhaps fit better. Any tips towards solving this problem and the right way to do it welcomed.”
Free service – You can have your question published for free on the Model Train Help Blog (see the links on this page).
Rerailers Used as Grade Crossings
Stuart posted this question:
“When laying my track I incorporated 2 re-railers (Atlas), which also serve as grade crossings. I model the transition era from steam to diesel which gives me the chance to operate both types of trains. I am wondering whether to remove them or weather then so they appear more authentic?”
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Painting Track – Good or Bad Idea?
Doug H writes:
“Has anyone had success with painting their track to remove the unreal looking shine and black ties? To me black is not the right color as many ties were creosoted and darkish brown not shiny back. Real rails to me look rusty except on the top surface where the trains run. Feedback would be good please.”
Make Your Own Impressive Silos
Purchasing scale model silo kits can be costly before you price in the cost and work involved required to paint and weather the kitsets. If you choose plastic models you’ll probably need proficiency with an airbrush to create an authentic representation of the real structure. The easier, and far less expensive option is to download plans to build your own silos avoiding the need for painting and airbrushing. That’s not to say that plastic models when constructed and finished carefully won’t look really impressive – they will. But so too will models built from downloaded plans. It basically comes down to the extent of your budget, how skilled you are with airbrushing and weathering, and which style you prefer. Both can look incredibly good and can be made really sturdy and durable. This quick clip shows some silos you can construct from downloaded plans.
Switch Flexibility
Mark posted this question:
“It’s been 30+years and I’m getting back into ‘it’. I’m dealing with O gauge and want to build a multi-level, multi-train layout in a barbell design with one side of the bar smaller than the other and used only for the trains turning around. All of my hobby stores are closed because of the virus and I have a simple question about the regular lt/rt switches and/or wye switch. I want to return some of the trains down their same track after the loop to save space – can the switches be set to automatically change? Or do I have to buy additional hardware/sensors? I am thinking about FastTrack but haven’t bought anything yet.”
Mark hopefully your local hobby stores will reopen. Unfortunately a lot of small businesses both online and off line are finding survival a struggle at the moment. The big manufacturers and magazines will most likely make it through, but they too will no doubt be feeling the pinch. I want to stay positive, but I fear that the industry will come out the other side of the Covid 19 pandemic in a modified form. Time will tell.
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