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Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Garry posted:
“One of my Kadee 50 footers has a bent coupler I need to fix but I’m not sure how to remove the coupler cover without damaging it. I guess they are not designed to be fixed?”
Send in your question to be published con the blog. Use the ASK A QUESTION link.
Bill writes:
“Dear Railroaders, I hope all are safe and well. I have a A.C. Gilbert Co., Ringling Bros and Barnum & Bailey Whistler, and believe it to be a Model 577. Running 3-rail O gauge trains. I have no wiring instructions or manual for the Whistler. Does anyone know where to access installation instructions, a parts list and/or wiring diagram? It would be greatly appreciated. Best regards.”
Submit your suggestions here.
Gerrie writes:
“I don’t want to sound like a scrooge, but the price of model paints seem expensive ranging from $4, $5, $6 for tiny bottles/cans up to $12 or more for spray rattle cans. I want to repaint an old 4-6-0 I picked up on eBay so presume enamel would be best? Scenery/structures I am thinking acrylic? Spray, can, bottle… not sure which way to go? It seems like I could end up buying dozens of different paints. Is there any easy cheaper way? What do other people have?”
Have your say below… and, see what others say too.
Wayne posted this question:
“It’s taken me a while, but I’m now at the point of buying track for my first HO layout which will be 9ftx4ft. My cousin uses Atlas code 83 track, but before committing I would like other people’s thoughts on what track would be best? Does it come down to personal preference, or is one track better than another?”
To have your question published use the ASK A QUESTION link below.
Bruce asks:
“I am searching for brushes for an AHM trolley motor. The originals burned – sizes are 2mm x 3mm and a guess of about 5mm or 6mm long, and of course, with springs. I searched eBay, googled the world…but cannot find any sources. The question: does anyone know where I can find some? Thanks in advance for your help.”
Kent asks:
“I found an old kit with paints and 1,1,1-trichloroethane glue and paintbrush cleaner. It is in “Bachmann bros. painting fluid and glue”. Is there a replacement for this?”
Post your answer below.
Ed models HO scale and asks readers:
“Can anybody tell me where or how to get a manual for a signal pilot to control railroad crossing lights? The one I have is in German and I don’t read German. I need all the info that I can get.”
Rick B asks:
“I am at a LOSS as to how to replace (swap out) new trucks for my HO Like Like, Proto 2000 locomotive. I bought it on the web, and the trucks were totally dissembled. The gent at Walthers sent me some replacements, but the instructions he gave me, ….well clear as mud. Help wanted.”
Paul asks:
“What do people use for logs in building a log cabin HO scale?”
Add your thoughts below.
Kerry asks:
“I want to highlight some of my number board and window gaskets on a couple of locos, but with poor eyesight and a shaky hand, I am not good at lining things up or doing fine brushwork. I have a hands-free magnifier but still struggle. I can’t be the only old codger with this problem. Is there an easy way?”
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John asks:
“ I recently bought some older rolling stock for N scale. They all have Rapido couplers. Can I stay with those as I develop a more modern train layout or should I find a modern coupler for the rolling stock that I want to use? If so, what kind?”
Sharad from India asks:
“I have always bought Bachmann & Hornby locos. My latest acquisitions are Bachmann: Pere Marquette 1218 (2-8-4) & Santa Fe 5034 (2-10-4). I did buy these big locos. Later I realized that I will require bigger # turnouts and frogs. Can you suggest which ones to use from PECO?”
Doug asks readers:
“Is the DCC loco speaker (audio quality) pretty much the same – or are some less tinny and a bit more realistic in sound quality? If the latter, how does one tell before purchasing? Thanks for any help with this question.”
Tom writes:
“I’m old-fashioned and have 200 cars with Rapido couplers that work fine for me for years and grandkids. All the new engines come with Micro couplers. No one seems to know where I can get this Rapido replacement part for Micro diesel coupler? Any thoughts?”
Add your comments/suggestions below.
Usually, the advice from experienced model railroaders is to buy quality over quantity, but as James points out that is not always the case:
“Now if you are going to buy cheap, buy real cheap and use them for show. I buy real cheap Cars and use them on the layout in a number of ways. Old flat cars can be used for bridges, etc.”
Thanks for the quick tip James.
Murray would like answers:
“What I thought would be an easy job has become a nightmare. I put my Athearn SD45-2 positioned upside down in my cradle, but can’t get the coupler box and coupler out. I pulled out the first coupler box screw, that that’s all. I even tried a screwdriver and a sharp craft knife blade to pry outwards leveraging on the truck. The whole pilot twists. It won’t come out. No way do I want to break off the whole front of the loco. Am I the only one with this problem?”
Contribute your thoughts below.
Roger kindly shared this tip for making barbed wire:
“I wanted a small section of barbed wire on a fence, so used some fishing line and tied knots in it. With a little trial and error, I cut the knots so that tiny bits stuck out to make the wire barbs. I test sprayed a length in silver and touched up some areas near the barbs with brown and rust-colored paint. There might be other ways to do it, but mine after weathering looks real and was cheap and easy to make.”
Buzza writes:
“I am not a fan of plastic and thought about using real treated timber cross ties. Has anyone done this? Are there any issues? Where can I get them in HO? Would love some feedback.”
Add your comments below.