Charles has a coupler question for readers:

“Recently I purchased (from a dealer), two sets of two old fashioned passenger cars, (from the steam era), but the couplers did not always match up. I raised the ones that were too low, but now I find that the knuckles seem to be too loose to remain coupled. Also, the forward bogey takes the switch curve correctly but the rear bogey decided to not turn. (I have lost more passengers that way). Any and all advice will be most welcomed.”

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A reader asks for help from experienced railroad hobbyist’s and asks:

“I have two HO F7A Santa Fe engines with horn type couplers. All of my rolling stock has knuckle couplers. How do I change the horn type?”

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Bill model O/O27 and wants advice from readers on hooking up multiple accessories and asks:

“Is there a piece of equipment that would allow me to easily hook up multiple accessories to a transformer? I have trouble getting so many wires from a power source to the accessories. I am looking for something like a distribution box?”

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Phil has a memorable train journey to share with others and writes:

My most unusual train experience occurred west of Omaha, Nebraska on the Rio Grande. I had been reading about trains and the importance of a slow start until the slack was taken out of the couplers. At each station I could feel a jerk as the wooden coach I was in started. I wondered whether the engineer was in too big a hurry. Sure enough two stations later we started with a jerk and stopped. After a long wait the conductor told us that we were waiting for a coupler to be repaired.

Geof has kindly sent in this advice to help others in the hobby.

Working in N scale requires a steady hand, particularly when painting small plastic parts or details on structures or vehicles. I have found that using your typical rubber molding compound as a masking agent can make this work much easier. I have a number of the Woodland Scenics structures that, if painted in two or three tones (broad colors for the overall structure with detail painting for windows, doors, trim work, etc.) can be very difficult whether you have a steady hand or not. I paint the detail work first (window sills, frames, doorways) and then come back and carefully apply a heavy coat (or two) of the molding compound directly on the painted surfaces after it has dried over night.

Then, after the rubber molding compound has dried (a few hours), I can spray paint the larger areas for a nice, uniform surface. After this second layer of paint has dried well (over night is best), I pick at the edge of the window sill areas or whatever with a toothpick to work the rubber compound free of the model.

Using my fingernails or a pair of tweezers, I find the hardened rubber pulls away very easily from the model. You may find that some small areas require touch up repainting where the rubber molding compound was applied too generously but if you were careful, these areas are few.

It takes a little practice but I have found this technique works best because I have found without it, the two (or three) different colors tend to smear into one another as one dissolves the adjacent color(s). This tip works for any scale (obviously) and only on plastic. It MIGHT work on other surfaces like cardboard or paper but I have never tried it.

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Larry shares memories of watching rail cars loaded on the Ann Arbor Ferry and writes:

I was about 10 or 11 when my folks took sis and I on a trip over lake Michigan by the Ann Arbor Railroad car fery service.. We watched the men load rail cars on to the ship that we were going to be riding on.

Dad had bought a round trip ticket from Elberta (across from Frankfort Michigan and return. The round trip for me was exciting in watching the rail cars being loaded and off loaded and the process was repeated when we got to Wisconsin.

The trip back to Michaigan ended very early the next morning. The fog on the return trip was very heavy. To my boy like wonder we came out of the fog right in the middle of the channel. Though this was in the early 60’s, and desiels ruled, it was not hard to imagine what it may have looked like when steam ruled. If memory serves me right there was some old wooden rail cars in the yard.

Several years ago I went back with Dad and my wife. Two boats sat in the shallow waters of the harbor. Everything was in sad state of neglect. But now after 47 years, I can still remember that rail car trip across Lake Michigan, the noise, the rail cars being loaded and off loaded and of course the fog. Memories of a small family having a time of their lives.

Dick has a question about Squadron Putty and from my experience some people like it and others definitely won’t use it. Some in the hobby also dislike Testor Putty and others seem to prefer using Glazing Putty, Bondo Spot, CA glue, Acryl-Blue Glazing Putty or Epoxy Putty (many obtained from an Auto Store) for filling minor low areas and deeper sanding scratches or for building up areas on a model. I’m sure Dick would like to hear your feedback. Here is his question:

Edward has an HO layout and has a question for you about attaching trucks:

“I’m building an old Ambroid kit (ST. Louis, Iron Mtn stock car) and am not sure of the best way to attach the trucks to the underbody – what size & type of screw, should there be an intervening washer, etc. The kit directions don’t give any info on this. Any help from someone reading this will be appreciated. Also any on-line links to websites/blogs about the kits.”

Richard has a question for readers with experience on couplers and asks:

“As a new model railroader, I’ve been busy buying a fair amount of rolling stock. Some have knuckle couplers, some Kaydee, some a circle with hook. I’m not interested in magnetic or electrical solutions. So,what is the favorite type of coupler for HO gauge? Thanks”

Bob has a question for those who have American Flyer HO scale passenger cars and asks:

“I am trying to find American Flyer HO scale passenger cars with New Haven markings, or is there any other manufacturer that makes these cars? The body of the cars is rounded and the color of the cars should be green or maroon. Thank you for any information that you can give me. Take care all, Bob”

Steven wants to hear from any reader who is willing to help him with his coupler problem and asks:

“I have touble with the couplers returning to the middle or straight when on straight track. What am I doing wrong?”

Jerry has a question about O scale figurines and asks readers:

“Can someone tell me where can I find O scale figurines that are formed in 1/32 scale size?”

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Dick is constructing his first HO layout and is having troubles with couplers uncoupling:

“I am building my first layout. I have used the Bachmann magnetic uncouplers on my spurs and I’m using standard Atlas 83 track. I cut out the cork roadbed and installed the uncoupler magnets directly under the cross-ties. When I back a locomotive and freight car over the magnet, sometimes they uncouple, most of the time they don’t. I can’t seem to find any help on this and would appreciate ideas anyone has.”

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Joe is building a new layout that he and his grandson can enjoy and work on together. He has a couple of question I’m sure many of you will be able to help him with. Please contribute your thoughts by using the green Comments and Feedback link below. It is really easy to join in and help others in the process. Here is Joe’s model train question:

“Hi Guys & Gals. I have older HO diesel engines that were stored in my attic. I have started a new layout that my grandson can use. I am planning to use the old engines and rolling stock. I have cleaned & lubricated the old diesels and they are running fine.

I did notice when I cleaned the wheels that the traction tires were dried and brittle and they fell apart. I have two inclines that are quite steep and I think that new traction tires would help on the inclines. Are there different size traction tires for the different brands of engines? I have Bachman, Life like, Model Power and Athern engines. Where can I purchase these tires? How do I install them? I can’t seem to get the wheels off the engine trucks. Are there split tires that can be glued to the brass wheels?

I know I’ve asked a look of questions, but any help would be appreciated. I live in Central New Jersey, USA”

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Can anyone help Philip?

“I am looking for a circuit of an electronic steam whistle, perhaps built around a 555 timer.I can find heaps of circuits of train horns but not train whistles. Thank You.”

Mike has a problem with getting model train parts and asks:

“I’m retired operating engineer (Heavy Equiptment Operator) 67 years old. My question is why is it so hard to get replacement parts, I have bought a few Athearn, Bachmann locomotives and you call to get replacement parts and the first thing they tell you is there are out of stock and they no longer make that part. It seems to me that the manufactors sell these locomotives with on problems why can’t they make sure they continue to supply the required parts we need to keep our trains running? In the Caterpillar world you can still get parts for tractors made in the late 50’s, and I think the Model train business is as demanding as the Caterpillar world. I really enjoy the modeling world of the HO gauge trains.”

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Richard and his son would like some advice from fellow model railroaders on hobby glues:

“My son and I acquired a roundhouse kit for HO that requires gluing. We wanted to know what is, or are, good glues to use and where we can get them?”

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George is trying to locate some magnetic couplers and wants advice from others in the hobby:

“I would like a magnetic coupler for a boxcar equipped with a track cleaner. The name on the box it arrived in is “Roco”. It’s made in Austria. The trucks are attached with plastic rivets. Conversion kit PMI FP-45 Kadee 1114 willl not fit. Neither will Micro-trains #1015-1-B. Can someone help me?”