Steve asks readers:

“I am trying to build an N scale New York city elevated subway section and I have only found the viaduct sections in HO scale from Micro Engineering. It seems no one makes any in N scale. Does anyone have an idea how I can either make my own or where I can buy what I need ? This is holding up my layout.”

Ken asks readers:

“I wish to install a lift out section in my baseboard for access. Detail on how to construct this would be appreciated.”

Curt sent in this photo to share –

“This is a photo of my multi track rail yard on a two foot wide 3/4 inch plywood shelf 44 inches above the floor and 20 feet long that is supported by 12 x 12 inch angles attached to vertically hung 1 x 4’s. Installation is stable for track and rolling stock but not strong enough to carry human weight. I could have added vertical legs if needed. The shelf was built about four years ago.”

Rick asks readers:

“I have planned my HO layout (15ft x 3ft) and want to start construction. I am worried about the whole thing collapsing after I add the weight of track, trains, scenery, structures, and people leaning on it. Any advice for types of timbers, construction methods, reinforcing etc. Help gratefully appreciated. P.S. and thanks to Robert for making this blog available free and to all the clever people like Newman, Frank and others who regularly offer help to people like me. Happy christmas to all.”

Gary works in O scale and asks readers:

“What is best to put on the wood table first. Homasote or what. Is anything needed?”

Jerome asks readers:

“This will be my first layout when I finally pluck up the courage to get started. I have been doing heaps of reading and research on trains and wiring but taking the first step with construction is harder than I thought. I guess it’s because I’m a bit of a control freak, not very skilled with carpentry, and don’t want to stuff anything up. I have a 12ft x 8ft space and have decided on HO. I thought of using radiata pine for the frame and MDF for the base. Is this ok? What thickness is best? I just need a push to get me started.”

Skip asks readers:

“I would like to build an N scale  transfer table. I would like to know what motors I should use. Just to start somewhere even if it’s just a manual or drawing. It doesn’t need to be DCC.”

Another beginner (Brad) asks readers for help:

“I’m planning my frist layout in HO, and I am confused with what to use for my baseboard and leg supports etc. I am lucky to have a spare room I can use so I will expand it in coming years or decades. I would appreciate hearing your readers views on what materials I should build with. Many thanks.”

Bernard submits his question for readers:

“I would like to build a hinged section of track to open to allow me to get into the middle section of my O layout where all the controls are. I have an 8 x 12 layout in an upstairs room. Also would like to find a layout program for tracks, curves and switches, etc. Any suggestions please.”

New member to the club Jason asks readers for advice:

“I am in the process of constructing my HO layout using flexitrack and would like to incorporate a couple lift-up track sections on slides or hinges for easy access. I would be grateful for any ideas people have”

Add your comment to assist Jason.

If you would like to ask a question for publication on the blog, please use the special link in the right column. Please note: only the best (well-worded, well-thoughtout) questions get published. Please include clear details and check spelling etc before submitting your question to the blog moderator for consideration.

JUST RELEASED!

A new series of western buildings for a Wild West street scene has just become available to download. The plans can be used for HO scale, N scale or made as OO gauge structures. The signage on the front of each building can be changed very easily, as 33 additional signs are included with the pack. So, the 1800’s western street can be adapted into a street scene from the 1920’s, 1930’s, or perhaps the 1950’s.

More details…

Ricky is planning his first HO layout and seeks guidance from readers:

“Am I on the right track (excuse the pun!)? I plan to use a couple of plain 3ft wide wooden doors as the foundation for my layout, but I am not sure if I am doing the right thing. I’ll use 3/8 inch dowel to join them and use wire harnesses at the joints. I thought this would be better than using plywood as with ply might need bracing diagonally which would make it even heavier. My plan is to apply cork or foam sheets on top to provide the height. Would this work, or is there a better way to do it?”

Mistakes when constructing benchwork can be difficult to rectify, so it’s best to avoid them in the first place. Here are some things to consider and mistakes to avoid:

>> Will anything you do be a safety risk that could potentially result in an accident or fire? Will the use of materials such as foam void your house insurance?

>> How much weight will the structure need to support? Will it cope with the weight now and in the future? Will you ever need to climb over or stand on the benchwork?

>> Will the benchwork be stable? Shaking and movement can derail trains.

>> Are the aisles wide enough for you and other operators? Not having aisle room to pass another operator can be very frustrating. Narrow aisles can restrict walkaround control.

>> Can all areas of the layout be easily accessed from either from the layout edge or from underneath? No being able to access a derailed car cause problems.

>> How will humidity affect the layout? Will the sub-roadbed bend or buckle?

>> How will the changes in elevation (vertical displacement) affect train operations? Sudden changes in track angles can uncouple and derail cars.

>> Is it practical now (and in the future) to crawl underneath or “duck-under” benchwork access areas, or to operate from a pit? Is there an easier way to do things?

>> Is the layout the right height for you? An uncomfortable height can spoil the fun especially if you develop back problems.

>> Are you making best use of the under layout space. Can areas be used for storage or will this make accessibility difficult?

>> Are you ever going to move house and relocate? What happens to your layout then? Does it need to be built in modules to make it portable?

Click here for more scenery ideas

http://www.modelrailwayscenery.org/model-railroad-scenery.html

Harvey asks for your help:

“I would appreciate any tips/advice on joining two boards together with 4 lower tracks and two on upper layer of my OO layout. Thanks.”

Add your tips.

Margie asks readers for the name of a retail outlet or manufacturer:

“Hello everyone, Hope you can help. I’m looking for HO trestles for a subway (actually, elevated train system). There are lots in other gauges, but having trouble finding HO scale. Thanks!”

Add your comment.

Steve asks for guidance from experienced model railroaders and asks:

“I have been building the benchwork for my HO model railroad for several years. I originally planned to simply do a duck-under to get to the inside walkway. The table is approx. 44 inches (window height) high. I have a disability that is progressing faster than I ever thought it would and a duck-under is no longer a viable option. Also a rolling stool isn’t very good either. I need to be able to lift or swing up on hinges a section wide enough for me to squeeze through that will cross a portion of table just over 5o inches wide. I need about a 12 – 14 inch passage. There will be multiple tracks. I can handle the electrical, but how do I maintain good track alignment? It will be used very frequently and I don’t wish to disturb the track integrity any more than I have to. Can someone give me some ideas please?”

Add your comments or suggestions to Steve’s post.

Anthony sent in these tips to share:

Subroadbeds serve as support for the layout when it has to be elevated for bridge construction. The following steps must be followed for sub roadbeds to bear the weight and be stable.

1. Set the sub-roadbed height one inch below the bridge’s desired height.
2. Calculate the sub-roadbed support height by subtracting the thickness and brace width from the sub roadbed height.
3. The width of the support should be greater than the sub roadbed width.
4. Cut the supports from a plywood sheet according to the calculated dimensions.
5. Use freehand drawing to design the subroadbed and cut it.
6. Fix the support on the layout with wooden glue.
7. Fasten the sub roadbed on supports with a single nail and some glue.

If you have some model train tips you would like to share with others in the hopbby, use the form at http://www.model-railroad-resources.com/train-tips.html