Stewart asks readers for advice:

“How practical would it be to lift a 8×3 layout by chains and pulleys to the supporting beams in my garage so I can park the wifes Suzuki Swift underneath? I would get into terrible trouble if I damaged her pride and joy. Would it be easy to lift, will it tip sideways, and how safe would it be? Could I lower it onto saw horses for support?”

Ben writes:

I see Dale posted a question a week or so ago relating track rust and mentioned the effects of humidity, so I thought I’d write a few words on setting up the right conditions for a layout.

One of the first things is to get the room prepared before constructing any benchwork for the layout. I know it is hard to resist just jumping in and getting started with a hammer and saw, but there are several important things to consider first apart from planning the size, shape, track configuration, scale etc.

The first job is to make the room dry. Dale mentioned his layout was in the garage and that’s a common location, as is a basement. Unfortunately basements and garages can get damp. If the space is not dry there will always be the risk of the benchwork not being stable, because humidity could cause the timber to swell. When the humidity drops the timber could dry out causing further changes or movement. This can impact on track levels and effect the sub-roadbed.

A couple of coats of waterproofing paint on the concrete block walls will help keep dampness at bay. In a lot of situations, a dehumidifier might be required to control room temperature and humidity levels. Adding insulation in the ceiling and walls will further help to keep the room dry. A drop ceiling can help with insulation and prevent dust from dropping onto the layout when someone walks across the floor on the upper level.

If the basement walls are not already insulated, start by putting up furring strips (a strip of wood tapering to nothing used in construction work) and styrofoam. Although there might only be ¾” of insulation, it will be better than having none. These furring strips can be attached to the basement walls using Tap-Con masonry screws. This will also be a help if your plan is to make your layout multi-level and intend to fix the upper layout level(s) to the wall. Using building adhesive and/or cement nails can fail over time so be careful with the weight loading. Having half your layout crash off the wall or rip wall panels loose can be disastrous. I would rather do a job once and do it right than to have to repair things after they have gone wrong.

If you have basement/garage windows you’ll need to decide whether or not to cover them with drywall or keep them accessible. Doing so would keep direct sunlight off the layout and probably mean you could include a realistic uninterrupted backdrop.

You’ll still need good lighting even if you don’t cover the windows. However, this raises another issue; the placement of the lights to be accessible and so the operators can see what they are doing. One option is to have lighting circuits finish in outlet boxes. Doing this will provide some flexibility as your layout takes shape. The lights can then be placed anywhere on the ceiling and be easily plugged in. The ceiling boxes won’t then need to be located exactly.

Whist on the subject of power circuits, it is a good idea having them along the walls usually under the layout, because running lots of extension cords is a problem waiting to happen. Being able to turn everything off at once when finishing for the day (or night) also makes sense. Having to turnoff several switches is frustrating and could result in something (like a heater or soldering iron) being accidentally left running.

Alex asks readers:

“We just moved into a smaller house and I did a lot of damage to my old HO layout deconstructing and moving it. It was harder than I thought it would be. Anyway, I decided to sell off the stuff to friend and start again in N scale because I don’t have as much space. This time I’ll build it in modules, but I’m unsure what’s the best way to join them for smooth rail joins, good connections, and easy dismantling if I do another house move?”

John has a question for readers:

“I’m building a multi level OO scale layout, the first level will be a fiddle yard and the second level will be the main area. I need to know what should be the height of my supports pieces between the first level to the second level, enough for me to access the trains on the fiddle yard on the first level and also to access wires and other things?”

Hank has a question for readers:

“This is my first attempt, I want to do a module in N scale. What I’ve got is a roundhouse with 6 compartments and a non powered turn table. I am open to suggestions on how to plan and then start putting this together. Please keep it as simple as possible, do not send me any complicated diagrams for I’ll give up and my train collection will be just that a collection to show and tell. I would like a main line to the round table and then to the roundhouse.”

Hank there is a very good manual on building modules called “Confessions of a Mobile Layout Builder” available as a bonus here http://www.modelrailwayscenery.org/model-railroad-scenery.html