Technical
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Using NCE Switch-Kat and Kato 4ch Turnout Controller
Ivan asks:
“My HO track and turnouts are Bachmann. Can I use the Switch Kat and Kato 4ch controller? The Bachmann turnout has 3 wires, whereas Kato turnouts have two? How would you wire that so that it would work?”
Numbers on Crossovers
Hank models HO and asks:
“What do the numbers on the cross over (for example #4) means, and when or where do you use number #4, #5, or #6 cross over?
Add your answer below.
Track Voltage Loss
Neil models HO and asks:
“My loco drops 2 volts and slows the further away it gets from my power terminal track. Do I need 2 power terminal tracks positioned at opposite ends of my 9 foot track? Can someone clarify please?”
Get your question published on the blog too. See the link below.
Gear Slipping on HO Scale Norfolk and Western Class J
David posted this:
“My sons love model trains but it is something I never messed with as a child. I am fully indulging their hobby looking for things on Craigslist and eBay. I just gave my son an HO Norfolk and Western 4-8-4 train I bought used off of eBay for his birthday. It ran around the track once perfectly, but then it started acting like the motor was not catching the gears properly. It runs but acts like a transmission slipping. I have repaired Thomas track master trains and a small HO Freedom Train but this train is larger and more complicated at least to me.
1) Is there a resource any of you would recommend for adjusting or replacing gears on such a model?
2)We live in Western North Carolina. Are there places I could take it for repair if it is beyond my scope and abilities? Thanks”
DC to DCC
Andrew models in N scale and writes:
“If I want to change my current Kato DC layout to DCC and use a Bachmann E-Z controller but still use the Kato point switches, how do I power them and what do I need to do?”
Add or view comments below.
Electrical Block Detection
Paul models HO and asks:
“I am still building my 5 module layout and plan to use electrical block detection in the future. I will run DCC NCE and operate a complete loop with an isolated section for each module as well as a siding. I want to include lights to indicate if the track is occupied or not. I would appreciate any thoughts on what I’ll need to make all this happen. Thank you in advance.”
Have your question published. See the link below.
Loco Speeds For Consists
Jamie is into N scale and posted this question:
“Is there a decoder that can regulate the speed of a loco in a consist? I only have two engines… an Atlas and a Kato… but the speeds don’t match well. I don’t want to risk damaging them. Any suggestions?”
To add a suggestion or see the answers, click on the COMMENTS below.
Roco Steam Engine with a 5 Pole Motor
Rudy asks:
“I’m planning to buy a newly released HO Roco Steam Engine with a 5 pole motor but no flywheel. Can I count on it running slow and smoothly, with realistic starts and stops with no jerking motion without a flywheel? All thoughts would be helpful.”
Engine Stalls On Straights
Lester sent in this question:
“I bought a Bachmann engine that must be more than 30 years old and tried it out on my basic oval test track which has a straight piece on each side. It runs ok on the curves but is starts to stall on the straights. My voltmeter showed no power loss. I then cleaned the track, but it still runs ok on the curves and slows a stall on the straights. It baffles me. Any thoughts?”
To add a suggestion or comments to assist Lester, please use the COMMENTS link under this post. No login required.
Replacing E 7 Trucks
Rick B asks:
“I am at a LOSS as to how to replace (swap out) new trucks for my HO Like Like, Proto 2000 locomotive. I bought it on the web, and the trucks were totally dissembled. The gent at Walthers sent me some replacements, but the instructions he gave me, ….well clear as mud. Help wanted.”
Bowser C-626 Locomotive
John writes:
“I have HO, DC only and I just added a new Alco C-628 from Bowser. Beautiful engine, ran perfect for 2 days, but then all of a sudden I lost forward mode, lights function in front only when in reverse, no lights in front. Still ran perfect in reverse. Next day, reverse worked again, but now, only the back lights work, and no front lights at all. I noticed that the motor felt warm, and possible slight odor. Could this be an out of the box lubrication issue? Operation is still smooth in forward and reverse, not warm, no odor, but no lights in front. Appreciate any insight.”
Kadee Couplers for PRR EMD E7 Diesel Engine 5772
Jim models HO scale and asks:
“I am hoping that someone either knows how to change from the old horn/hook couplers to Kadees on a Model Power HO Scale Pennsylvania PRR EMD E7 Diesel Engine # 5772.”
Size Resistor for 3V LED Lamps
David asks:
“I have 10 lamps, each is a 3V LED lamp. My transformer measures 15V AC output on the accessory terminals. I don’t know the output current, but I assume it’s plenty to run these lamps. What size resistors do I need and how do I hook them up with the lamps?”
Engine Won’t Move and Light just Flickers
Roger posted his O gauge model 8644 question:
“I was pulling 11 cars yesterday and today the engine just sits there and the light flickers on and off, pulsating trying to move. I’m thinking I shorted it out. I ran other engines on the track to be sure the track is good. Thanks.”
Add your suggestions and read the comments below.
DCC Sound Volume Controls
Geoff asks readers:
“When you buy a loco with DCC and Sound equipped is the sound volume adjustable to set the level to increase when the engine’s speed increases. I don’t want loud noise at the same time from multiple engines on the track.”
Lighting Problem With Older Passenger Cars
Jess models HO scale and asks readers:
- Do you have any experience with older, lighted passenger cars – HO scale?
- I bought a set and cannot get the light to work. Only one car had a bulb and interior wiring.
- I did test the light with alligator clips, and the bulb works when tethered with the clips to the track.
- I can’t figure out how the current gets to the bulb.
- I have included pics. My restricted knowledge of electricity is confused on where the copper pickups need to draw their current.
- I think if I could position the front to pick up the right lane and the rear to pick up the left it would work.
Any input would help.
Older Locomotives With Demagnetized Motors
Glen would like feedback and writes:
Can a locomotive motor become weaker and lose power over time? A friend told me he heard heat can demagnetize motors with “excessive use”, but when I asked how many hours running would be “excessive use” he said he didn’t know and hadn’t asked. I’m not convinced, because I have some 35+ year-old engines that still run as good as new, but I do maintain them well. Does someone know for sure if this can happen or not, after how many hours of running, and are some brands/types of engines more susceptible? Just skeptical and curious?
Post your feedback and comments below.
NCE Throttle Confusion
John models in N scale and asks:
“So I’m getting into DCC for the first time and a while back I purchased a 7623 Baltimore & Ohio steam locomotive. Next, I was trying to find an NCE starter set but couldn’t find one in stock. I did find an NEC Deluxe Pro Cab (R); rbo2 radio base station; p114 power supply and a Power Cab Panel which I thought could get me running. I now realize I’m needing to purchase a command station to send the power and signal mix to the track. Looking online all I see are Power Cab lineups but nothing explaining the use of just the Deluxe Pro Cab lineup. I have a 3×5 setup I’m putting together and not into buying the Power cab throttle. At this point, I’m looking at an NCE 52 4008 CS 02 command station. My question is, is this command station going to do the trick? I don’t want to go thru the expense of buying this if it’s not what I need to finally run the locomotive using the NEC ProCab.”
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