Technical
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Train Runs Then Stops
Jim asks readers for advice:
“I run DCC on my layout. The ho scale train will run then it will stop then power back up… then run… then it will stop… and power up. What is the problem thanks?”
Add your comment below.
Lionel Commodore Vanderbilt Train Set Transformer
Bob asks readers for advice:
“I have a very old and running Lionel Commodore Vanderbilt train set – locomotive, coal car, fuel car and caboose. I need to replace the transformer – what do you recommend?”
Comment below.
OO Gauge Power Type
Bobby want to hear reader’s opinions and asks:
“I am in the U.S., and have acquired a OO gauge Hornby London 2012 train pack R2961 (no track or transformer). The loco is designed to run on variable 12V DC power supply. I have a Bachmann HO transformer #46605A. Will that operate this train without harm?”
Add your comment below.
Wiring Diagram
Jack has a request for readers:
“I am in need of a wiring diagram for the Ringling Brothers American Flyer Whistle. I need the complete diagram, the wires on the bottom of the whistle have been removed and I want to restore this whistle.”
Block Signals
Joe asks readers for advice:
“I need a wiring diagram showing the connections for 3 LGB semaphores automatically stopping and starting trains in a simple loop; non-dcc; train power from the track via a transformer. Can someone please help.”
Answer below.
Add Better Functionality To Model Railroad With Tortoise Motors
The tortoise is constructed with a precision gear drive mechanism which is coupled to a low-current motor to stall out safely avoiding coil burnouts and cut-off contacts.
Tortoise motors are slow motion motors that will deliver realistic slow motion movements for your locomotives and their patented technology avoids burning out of the layout. The tortoise motor is an essential accessory in your railway layout if you want to achieve realistic slow motion movement. The gear drive mechanism of a tortoise motor puts less stress on your locomotive’s engine and can prolong the lifespan of your model railroad network with minimum maintenance.
The Tortoise motor is designed to be mounted below a model train layout with a spring wire transmitting linear movement through the layout baseboard and the roadbed to a turnout throw-bar. Your turnouts need to be inspected for free points movement and there needs to be a clear area below the layout so you can mount the machine.
The Tortoise motor is very versatile when mounting it, however it should be noted that when a turnout binds it will not switch smoothly. You will need to make a small hole (or slot) directly below the throw-bar. This hole is usually positioned between the rails, however is could be outside the rails if you prefer. The hole size of should be twice the total turn-out throw (a 1/4-inch size in HO). Also, you will need to drill a small hole in the throw-bar so your spring-wire to get through.
There may already be a rivet in the turnout throw-bar for this purpose. If your turnout already in place, you can drill a tiny (.032 inch to .040 inch) pilot hole in the center of the throw-bar. Also drill through your roadbed and the baseboard. Then calculate the combined thickness of your roadbed and baseboard before marking your 1/4 inch bit with some tape (or you could use a drill stop). The next step is to use your pilot hole as your guide to drill up through the baseboard and your roadbed. Take care not to break through and damage your throw-bar. You may need to bend the throw-bar away slightly from your roadbed to avoid damage. The last step is to remove any leftover roadbed (use a hobby knife) and then clean up the hole.
Getting Started In Model Trains
Those new to this wonderful hobby of model trains often get disheartened because things seem too difficult and everyone in the hobby (except them), already seems to understand the technical jargon. For a beginner to model trains it can seem like having to learn a foreign language, so many simply lose interest and give up in the early stages.
Unfortunately this is a shame and is not good for the hobby in general going forward. After all, the more people involved in the hobby, the more likely manufacturers will be to bring out new product ranges at competitive prices. If fewer new people join the hobby, then product ranges will diminish over time and prices will increase.So, it is really in everyone’s best interest to help and encourage beginners to get started. That is precisely what I try to do with this free model train blog. It is even better when experienced model railroaders chip in with answers to questions and submit useful articles for publication.
There are more helpful ideas to build your model train layout without making mistakes at the online Model Train Club.
Using Piano Wire For oo Gauge Points
Have has a question for experienced model rail buffs:
“I am trying to operate some 00 points with piano wire but I do not know how to get the wire from under the table through it and a right angle to operate the point?”
Comment below.
027 Gauge Track Power
Gregg has a question for experienced model railroaders and asks:
“I run a 027 gauge track about 6 feet by 6 feet. One the one corner I have my transformer hooked up. For some reason, at the opposite corner, my train slows down. This has been an issue for a few years now. One of my coworkers told me to make sure I take a pair of needle nose pliers and tighten the part where the two pieces of track connect. Frustrated in PA. Any thought and thanks in advance.”
Comment below.
Marklin Power Supplies
Derik has an electrical question for readers:
“I have two HO Marklin power supplies that does not work. Can somebody give me drawings or explanation of how to repair them please . The latest one that doesn’t want to work is 6631 Schalter T25/E?”
Derik will need to be aware that any comments made by readers on this blog are personal opinions only, and he should seek proper advice from an experienced electrician if he is in any doubt regarding electrical safety.
An Overview of Digital Command Control
Even though many of us a reasonably experienced in the hobby, getting started can be confusing. Beginners hear all kinds of new terms and have a lot to learn. This steep learning curve can be intimidating and will put many off venturing further into the hobby. This is why it is so important we all help and encourage others.
DCC or Digital Command Control uses rails to send digital commands to the locomotives in such a way that multiple locomotives are independently controlled within the same block. A DCC system consists of the following components.
Command Station – controls all other parts of the DCC and determines the type of throttle controls that can be incorporated.
Throttle or Cab – acts as hub of the whole system, primarily used for controlling the train.
Booster – amplifies command signals so that enough power is generated for operating the tracks.
Power Supply – supplies power to the entire model as an AC transformer or DC power source.
Decoder – incorporated into each locomotive to provide power to the track, only when it has been addressed.
For lots more information of DCC operation check out the members area inside the Model Train Club. New content is added every month.
N Gauge Kato Number 4 Points
Mike has a question for experienced model railroaders:
“I have a passing loop with a sidings coming off the loop. When I switch the rails to move a loco up the siding the loco in the loop moves as well. Any answers please?”
Comment below.
Frogs And Switches
George has a question to test experienced railroaders and asks:
“Why do the frogs in the switch keep derailing my engine or cars. I have checked the tension of the Atlas switch, and I also have Bachmann N gauge which does the same thing.”
Add your comment below.
Train Carriage Lighting Using LED lights
Stuart has a question for reader:
“I recently installed carriage lighting using led strips which work perfect until train moves when they flicked which spoils the effect. I use a DCC system, rails are clean and new wheels and pickup have been used. Any idea from your readers on how to overcome this problem, thanks in advance.”
Click the link to add your answer or comment.
Track Wiring – Recommended Wire Gauges For Model Trains
Wayne from the UK sent in this tip to share:
“Track wiring for model trains must be done with appropriate gauges to expand the lifespan of your rails as well as locomotives. To avoid wiring related issues, follow the track gauge recommendations. 22-24 gauge wires are best suited for lights and the same gauge can also be used for track turnouts. However, you should use the same gauge for track feeders but stick to 19-20 for best results. Track power bus on the other hand only need gauges of 14-16. Stick to these specifications for better conductivity and power output on your railroad.”
Click the link to comment on Wayne suggestions.
Reverse Loop Wiring Explained
This contribution from club member Harry who suggests:
“A reverse loop on your model railroad should be carefully done because faulty reverse loop can damage the locomotive and the entire wiring setup in worse cases. A reverse loop, as the name suggests, doubles back on itself so it’s important to give an electrical block for the reverse loop. You need to use an SPST switch to run power to the extended loop, which can be bought online. The DPDT switch will be used to control the power flow on the loop so that you can move your locomotive forward and backward when needed.”
Click the link to comment on this posting from Harry.
Power For 10 or 15 Locomotives – 8 amp or 5 amp?
Graeme wants advise from other in the hobby.
“I am rejoining the hobby and looking to buy a DCC controller. I am currently setting up n scale modules, so they can keep expanding, with intention of computer interface to operate some of the trains while I do the shunts / specials etc. In total I plan for about 10 – 15 loco’s, and I was going to buy a 8 amp unit but have been told recently it might damage to locos and that I should keep to a 5 amp maximum. Does anyone have any experience / advice regards this?”
Add your comments or advice to Graeme’s post.
How To Build The Best Model Railway Movements
Model railway movements look amazing with large traffic sections, railway stations, busy classification yards, and multi-layer landscapes. If you want a fantastic looking railway movement, you need to decide a specific theme as it will keep you stay focused throughout the entire process.
It is also worth noting that multiple high traffic sessions are not recommended for beginners as it can sometimes cause accidents. Although, model train accidents look exciting in videos, they are true disasters in real life, costing you a lot of money.
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