Gil asks readers:

“Where in the wonderful world of model trains can I find spare parts for Bachmann and Lifelike engines. I have two good engines but the Nylon Wheels that mesh with the worm gear and work are worn and won’t drive the wheels – Help!!”

Bill has posed this question for readers:

I have some 3 volt LED street lights that were supplied with separate resistors. How do I wire these resistors to the lights?

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Eric has a question you might like to answer:

“Has anybody found a good way of fitting Kadee couplers to the usual dovetail NEM socket that Hornby, Bachman, etc use? The swallowtail box is easy (usually!) but the dovetail seems to require butchering the chassis.”

Leroy has this question for others in the hobby:

“I have some HO wheel sets that include ‘ASSOCIATION OF MANUFACTURERS OF CHILLED CAR WHEELS A A R 1936’ apparently molded around the axle on the hub. A search shows some data about AMCCW in 1942, but when a model has such detail there must be a link to the real use of this molding in the real world. Can anyone provide information on this (unique?) detail ?”

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Jason sent in these thoughts:

Poor solder joints can be a big time waster and cause endless electrical problems on a model railroad layout. Keeping the solder iron tip in first class condition is critical if you want to achieve sound solder joints. Tip problems are easily prevented by always keeping the tip tinned with a thin coating of solder.

Most tips on solder irons are manufactured using a copper core which has been electroplated with iron to prolong the life of the iron. The “non-working” part of the tip is usually plated with nickel to protect against rusting and corrosion. It is then plated with chrome to stop the solder from sticking to it. It is only the very end tip that is un-plated so it will hold the solder.

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Looking after a solder iron is important – especially the unplated part of the tip that will quickly oxidize. This is why you need to coat the tip with solder at all times. It will slow down the oxidation process and help keep the tip in good condition. Despite your best intentions, the tip will eventually burn out – they all do. You know this has happened if you struggle to maintain the tip in a clean and shiny condition. If this happens the tip will need to be replaced. Filing or sanding the tip will not solve the problem long term. Tip replacement is best.

To avoid pre-mature burn out of the tip, keep it tinned with a thin coating of solder – not just while you are doing some soldering, but also when your soldering iron is idling. Get into the habit of applying a coat of solder to the tip before you set the iron down.

After you have finished soldering, always clean the tip and then apply a coating of solder prior to switching the iron off.

Whenever you buy and install a new tip, begin by applying a thin coating of solder, because otherwise the tip could burn out within a few minutes.

John seeks advice from experienced model railroaders and asks:

“My wife and I are building a 15ft X 9ft HO layout to represent Swiss/Austrian theme. I have used to date some 65 meters of Peco 100 track and 30 points. Problem is that some of my dozen Fleischmann steam locos of various vintage will not run over these points [insulfrog] Is there any way I could ‘doctor’ the reluctant points. Thank you for any advice.”

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John asks readers:

“I have been told much about how to wire up my model railway but,very little about what wire to use. Could anyone help?”

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Charles from Canberra in Australia asks readers:

“G’Day from Oz, I have just ordered an HO Walthers Sperry Rail Detector Car and it’s in the Mail. It is HO DC and I would like to convert it to DCC.

Any advice/suggestions/recommendations from those in the know will be very much appreciated.”

Malcolm sent in this short article:

A tortoise switch machine is a DC device used for controlling turnouts. Their precision, due to their slow speed, makes them ideal for use in a model railroad.

1. Bend the spring wire at an angle of 15^o and 80 ^o at two points. The distance between the points must be three-fourth of an inch.
2. Place the fulcrum onto the rails.
3. Mount the machine on a wooden template, and attach it onto the fulcrum using adhesive.
4. Fix the spring wire through the fulcrum such that the bent side is inserted into the throw arm.
5. Connect the machine to power.

Werner asks others for advice:

“Being a novice, I would like to know exactly what options I have with my layout. I have both DCC locomotives as well as non-DCC. I am planning to split my track (separate control) and run non-DCC on one circuit and DCC on the other. My experience being limited, I have read where the DCC loco can go onto non-DCC track but not vica-versa. Also it can’t run indefinitely on the DCC side. Any and all info on this subject is appreciated.”

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David asks for your help:

“I have a Proto 2000 loco which is probably 20 years old, and would like to add a sound decoder. I looked last night and am not sure if I need to unhook the small computer board at the back of the motor. I’m assuming (trouble I know) that the old board was partly to control the MARS light. Will the decoder work with the board in place, or will there be problems. It’s been a while since I’ve installed a decoder and as it’s a Sumnami I’d like to get it right the 1st time. Any other tips about installation would be appreciated. Yes, I do have LED’s and resistors. Thanks!”

Stephen (a member of the Online Model Train Club) sent in these tips for adding sound effects to trains:

Many manufacturers of model trains now have built-in cavities where speakers can be located. In some instances you can make a space for a speaker in the fuel tank on a diesel locomotive. Some of the older diesel locomotives might be trickier. Steam engines will typically have a tender (unless they are a tank engine) where you can locate a speaker. I usually install the speakers face down as this generally gives off the best sound. I cover the speakers with a double thickness of panty hose to avoid metal fragments getting attracted to the speaker magnet.

Ed has a question for experienced model railroaders:

“Can an older non-DCC diesel loco to DCC with some kind of converter? And is it worth the trouble? If so what exactly am I looking for to do the job?”

Add your answer below.

Jim asks readers:

“I’m having trouble with my locomotives running through my switches creating shorts in the DCC system. I use Atlas switches and can’t come up with a fix. It seems to happen more often with my steam locomotives. Has anyone experienced the same problem and come up with a fix?”

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Peter from the UK sent in these tips:

When wiring your layout remember to mark and to code the various wires wherever they terminate. It is very frustrating to have to crawl under the benchwork on your back under to try to locate and retrace a particular wire to solve a problem. I also makes sense to split the layout into several electrical sections. This helps to isolate areas making it easier to track down problems. Keep your wiring separate for the different functions like track power from the turnout power and the lighting circuits.

Bill sent in these tips for wiring layouts:

“It is best not to use the same gauge (size) of wire for all your model railroad wiring. The higher the gauge numbers the smaller the wire e.g. a size 22 gauge wire is smaller than size 18 gauge wires. The larger size wires (e.g. gauge 18), are generally better for longer runs as it minimizes any power loss. Many use size 22 gauge wires for short runs (e.g. a 1-foot drop from the track rail to the bus wire). Sizes 22 – 25 are often used for lighting circuits, short runs, and for powering relays. If you keep the relays for your frog power reasonably handy to the turnouts they control, you can probably use size 22 to route the power to a frog from a bus or the track. DCC typically requires heavier bus wires to minimize loss.”

Comment below.

The metal holders that soldering irons sit in can be problematic. The tip can come in contact with the holder which can draw out heat from of the tip. This can be a problem, because the tip may not be at full temperature when you go to use it, making it more difficult to get a good solder joint.

The better option is to set the iron on your work bench with the tip pointing upwards. If you do use a stand, make sure the tip points up rather than down. Also make sure it doesn’t have metal parts that could draw out heat from the tip. That way, the iron will always be hot and ready to use.