Charles needs help with electrical pickup and asks readers for advice:

“How is the best way to wire LGB Stainz loco to LGB Model 2063 diesel switcher when double heading to improve electrical pickup from track power?”

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Tim would like to hear from anyone experienced in model train power supply and asks:

“How often should power be supplied to the track? Currently the track is 16 feet of total in length with one power supply connection.”

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Herb wants some wiring help from others in the hobby and asks:

"It has been many years since I last set my train up.  I will be using the new Lionel Fastrack and I need help with the wiring.  What or were can I get some help?"

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Michael seeks help from others in the hobby with experience insulators, reverse polarity and other technical issues:

“I am having trouble wiring a reversing loop (HO scale) – following the first switch there are 2 insulators (the switches are PECO). Where the loop rejoins the main line I have an additional switch to a second line – how many insulators do I need? – a diagram would look like an E with the 2 insulators on the top – the middle leg turning to the top with a switch that allows the choice of going up to the top or on out the bottom (hope this makes sense) – if I run into the E and go down the middle everything works to the insulators – If I start at the top just past the insulators I can go through either switch with no interuption – I know this is an issue with reverse polarity but don’t understand it – is there an easy fix?”

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Bill is having a problem with whistle sounds and locomotive speed and asks readers:

“I have an 8′ x 24′ layout with 7 different blocks. When the train goes from one block to another the whistle sounds and the engine slows down and then speeds up. The strange part is that it only does this when going in one direction. When it is going in the oposite direction through the same block it does not slow down and the whistle does not sound.”

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John has a technical question for readers and asks:

“I am running tmcc engines with the old zw’s. Does anyone know the radio shack part number that I should use to add an inline fuse? Should it be on the A post or U post?”

A reader asks:

“I went to a train show this year at the NY state fairgrounds in Syracuse this past November. I saw an item that caught my eye. On someone’s display there was a figure that looked like he was arc welding on a locomotive. To simulate the welders arc, a white flashing LED was used. Thought this was neat. I purchased a flashing LED from Radio Shack, think this would work. It would have only the clear LED would flash red. Does someone know of a circuit that I could purchase or fabricate that would make a white LED flash? Thanks for any help your readers might give me.”

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Gary asks:

“How do I wire my fast track terminal wires to my ZW transformer post?”

Gary, perhaps you could provide some more details as this will help someone to give you a good answer. Use the comments link below to add more info.

Fred has an 0n30 train layout and asks readers:

“Can anybody please tell me how wire a turntable using DCC?”

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Jeremy has a question for experienced model railroaders and asks:

“My model railroad features a scenic railroad with its own separate line. It is a straight segment with a siding at one end. Whenever I turn on the power [DC] the loco just shakes and I saw smoke coming off of one of my 2-6-0s. How do I wire this line so it runs properly without the hazards?”

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Dave has a technical question for anyone with a Powermaster.

“I have two Lionel 80W transformers connected to my Powermaster. Should the switch on the front be set at 135 or 180?”

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James has a question for someone experienced in CAD systems and asks readers:

“What different cad programs are out there that work effectively at designing trains?”

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Ron has a question for others in the hobby and asks:

“I purchased the E-Book and really enjoy it and have learned a lot. I am in the process of building several pieces of rolling stock and a couple of engines while working on my first layout. I would like to ask your readers for some ideas on how to add lights to rolling stock and engines for a more realistic look and performance.”

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Bob has a 4 way crossing and wants advice from experienced model railroaders and asks:

“I have a 4 way crossing on my layout that will have any four trains going through the crossing at the same time. What I need is some way to stop two trains, say east and west bound, if I have a train going north or south bound. The trains that will be stopped might have several dcc engines or even a helper engine in the middle so I can’t have it stop the first engine because it would cause the other engines to try to push the train through. What do I need to do please?”

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Alan has a lighting question for readers:

“The standard for current limiting and to keep the entire layout from shutting down because of a short is to use a 1156 12V tail light bulb out of a car for HO. What is the standard bulb for N Gauge because of the lower voltage and current requirements?”

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Loren is expanding the train layout and asks readers for help:

“I am expanding my lay out and use multiple trains and need more electial current to the far end of my tracks. I am wondering how is the best way to gain more current throughout my track”

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Leon wants some free advice from others in the hobby and asks:

“Can anyone help me wire this layout for 2 train operation? Here is my layout. On the plan, each square is 12 in. by 12 in. The actual size of layout is 8 feet N to S, 7 feet E to W, at widest points. Colour code: green is lower level; orange is up and down grade; red (pink) is upper level. Scale is S, American Flyer, old type track.”

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John needs help from others in the hobby and asks:

"I have a United PFM 4-6-2 that runs for a while then slows down to a stop. My power supply does not indicate a short and other loco's run fine on the same track. It looks like the motor brushes are not making good contact due to spring tension. Is there a replacement motor or brushes available for these old engines."

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