A scale is the ratio of model trains to real trains. It can also be expressed as millimeters per foot or fractions of an inch per foot. A gauge is the distance between tracks. The standard distance is 1435mm (4 foot 8-1/2 inches) or the equivalent distance ratio. Any measurement less than this is called a narrow gauge and any measurement greater than this is called wide gauge.

The techniques used for achieving good looking and reliable solder joints are not difficult to master. Yes, it will require some practice, but anyone can do it.

There key points for creating high quality solder joints on track are:

1. Keep your works surfaces and tools clean.

2. Use acid based solder paste flux.

3. Purchase a good quality soldering iron (with a replaceable tip). A small diameter solder  –  a .020 inch or smaller works best.

5. For soldering track a 35W to 45W pencil type iron works well.

Andrew sent in this hobby tip:

“Perfecting your soldering skill is essential to own a stunning model rail network because spotless work not only looks good but also provides adequate grip and a flawless running platform for your engines and cars. You need a 100W gun and resistance soldering tools for the jobs such as installing etched metal kits while rosin core solder will help you to do a fantastic job. You also need a sanding block to clean the parts before the solder job and the joints must be cleaned after the job as well.It works for me.”

Regular contributor John has once again supplied a wonderfully informative article for publication. On behalf of all readers I would like to thank John for the excellent contribution he is making to the hobby. I know it is really appreciated.

No matter what size model railroad you have or are building, it’s important to have the right curved track for the kind of locomotives you may own. Just like making sure all the track is kink-free with clean rails, using the correct curves can make your train run realistically as long as the track is clear. On the other hand, a locomotive running on too-small curves can not only look bad, but can cause derailments and collisions if the operator is not careful.

A real railroad uses easements to bring a train into a turn, meaning that the track has the largest curve at its starting points and gradually goes into smaller curves between these points. Easements can be used and look great on model railroads, but take up a lot of space on smaller projects.

As related to diesels, a four-axle locomotive, such as an ALCO RS and C-400 series, the EMD F or GP, and the GE B-series, are usually shorter than the six-axle locomotives like the ALCO C-600 series, the EMD SD, or the GE C-units. For N-Scale railroads, the minimum curve to use is the 9-3/4” Radius, which can handle a four-axle locomotive pretty well. Six-axle locomotives will run on 9-3/4” curved track, but look and run better on a minimum 11” Radius to handle the longer diesels. In HO, which is almost twice the size of N, the minimum track curves should be 18” Radius for four-axle diesels and 22” Radius for six-axle diesels.

If you run a train with passenger cars on your railroad, use the largest curves possible. Passenger cars can be longer than freight cars, and need the larger curves to make turns. Also use this principle if you model the modern era, because some of today’s huge engines and bigger freight cars need the larger radii.

A problem arises when modeling a smaller railroad. The plywood boards in home improvement stores are usually cut to a 4×8-foot size, or in half to 4×2. These sizes do not support the larger curves. A 22” Radius (HO) on a 4×8 or 11” Radius (N) on a 2×4 can fit on the plywood, but the track is too close to the edge. Get around this by using smaller curved track and go with four-axle diesels.

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Use an eye dropper to achieve more accuracy and avoid damaging other parts of your railroad.

Ballasting Track can be quite tricky and it takes at most patience and effort to get it looking right. Ballast is laid between the tracks and sometimes on the sidings of the sleepers such that one can in a realistic effect there are different techniques for laying down Ballasting Track.

If you are using cork it is important that you stand the edges of the slope first so that the smaller stones will obey better. Use almost 70% isopropyl alcohol spray as the wetting agent instead of plain water.

With the help of an eyedropper you can do a better job and avoid spraying on the scenery. To soak the Ballasting components use a mixture of white glue and alcohol in 50-50 proportion. These tips will help you do your job perfectly.

You’ll get a more detailed guide to step by step ballasting in the members area at the online Model Train Club.

Code 100 track

Each model train track comes with various codes or sizes for each scale. These codes are identified with numbers which translate into the height of the rail track in inches. For example: Code 100 – gives you 0.1 inch height and 156lb rail. In the same way, Code 83 – gives you 0.083 inch height and 132 lb. rail.

When it comes to creating a prototype track, the main lines are made with heavier rails and the branches or deviations are made with lighter rails. The roadbed and the space between ties of these codes vary as well. For example if the mainline needs 24 ties/39 foot rails, it comes down to 11 1/2 inches between each tie. With this in mind, use heavy code rail for the mainline and smaller code for the sidings.

If you are looking to rebuild your railroad model form scratch, then you’ll have to remove decals off the train. Follow the steps below to achieve a neat look.

1. Dip a rag into warm water.
2. Rub the decal with the damp cloth.
3. Remove the decal from the surface using a pair of tweezers.
4. Soak a cotton ball into an adhesive remover.
5. Use the cotton ball to wipe off any left-over residue.
6. Rub the area where the decal was with a wet rag once more to clean up the surface.

The sole purpose of real life railway networks is to transport people and goods from place to place but most model trains simply circuit on a loop. If you are a purist, consider adding a model railroad waybill system to your network. A waybill system is used to identify the coach, its transport time and stops. You can use ready-made or custom made waybill systems to operate your railroad network like railroads did in the past before the age of computerization.

A damp sponge and soldering stand are must have accessories in model rail soldering because overheated irons and unclean ends will give more trouble than good. Do not use acid core solder because acid can cause metal corrosion and your railroad components may eventually get damaged. Avoid lead core as well and try sticking to rosin core solder as it usually gives clean soldered ends. You also need flux to make your soldering jobs easier.

A model railroad interchange can be built simply for the visual appeal or it can offer great functionality on larger model railroad layouts. Whatever the reason is; you have different options to try here. Some modelers build interchanges with lines fading into the terrain, suggesting that the interchange fades into the horizon.

Practical version of railroad interchanges can include staging yards to mange heavy traffic. Staging yard can help you to store coaches and it can be used to represent destinations that are not covered in your map!