Trackage
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Workable Grade For Lionel Engines
Mason posted:
“I have a work area of around 16 foot by 6 foot and plan for 2 levels with my trains operating on both. I am thinking of 6″ to 8″ between the two levels, so am wondering what grade and how many inches of track would look and work best. I don’t want to waste space, but still want it to look natural and not cramped. Plus any tips on figuring the riser heights as they step up the ladder would be a help. Thanks in advance.”
Can Kato Unitrack Be Used With Other Track Brands?
John S writes:
“Before I buy stuff for my planned N gauge railway I want to check if Kato Unitrack can be used with other track brands like Atlas? I know Unitrack is quite expensive and a bit plastic in look, but it sounds pretty durable and foolproof. Any comments if you have used it and can the plastic look be easily disguised?”
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Calculating Grades – Graphic to share with friends
Model railroad grades are expressed as a percentage by dividing the rise over the run.
For example, a 3″ rise in 100″ run of model railroad track is 3% (3/100). Put another way, if you have 100 inches of track and your train climbs one inch, then your grade is 1 percent. When 25 inches of trackage rises 1 inch, your grade would be 4 percent. However, be aware your track will need to transition from the flat level to the gradient and back (see graphic). This will add to the run needed for your given gradient.
Real-world railroads might have three grade classifications: 0.8 percent to 1 percent which is considered ‘light grade’; 1 percent to 1.8 percent would be ‘heavy grade’; and anything steeper than 1.8 percent would be ‘mountain grade’ track. Real railroads operate for efficiency, whereas visual aesthetics are factors to consider on model railroads.
On a model railroad, grades can be used to enable more movements in a smaller space, and to make a train layout more visually appealing. Having a train pass on a track over another on a bridge can look particularly impressive. Even though grades on model train layouts are often steeper than on real railroads, grades greater than 2% can still pose problems. If you are using tight radius curves that can compound grades. Where possible, grades are best kept below 3%, however, some layout can and do accommodate steeper grades.
Grades on model railroads are generally steeper because, unlike on a real railroad where very long trains operate, there isn’t usually enough space to replicate a gradual gradient of several miles. However, the same principles need to be considered: the weight of your locomotive, the power of your locomotive, along with the weight and number of cars in your trains. A weak loco won’t be capable of pulling many cars up a grade. The steeper the grade is, the harder it will be. The greater the weight, the greater the traction… which means the wheels on your lighter locomotives could slip on grades that heavier locomotives can climb. Another thing to be aware of is that larger-scale locos will generally cope with steep grades better than smaller loco scales. As an example, a powerful N scale locomotive might pull around 14 to 16 cars up a 4 percent grade. Some train enthusiasts might think 14 to 16 cars is too short a train consist.
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Insulated Track Connections
Gary has an O scale question:
“I am using insulated track sections. What are the connections for crossing gate and lights? I hope you can offer advice.”
How to Cut Fastrack
Mike models O scale and asks:
“I am making a lift out bridge and would like to know the best way to cut fastrack please?”
Types of Flex Track
Mike M asks:
“Hello, I really hope you can help me with a couple of quick questions. Will a HO Marklin coal tipper fit on a flexible HO track? Also, is there a flexible HO track that is a little taller than what you usually get at hobby stores? I have a very old tin plate made in japan train that will not run on my HO tracks. The wheel flanges are a little too big so it hits the cross ties. Thanks for your time! I am not a model train expert and am having trouble finding answers for a HO train project I’m working on.”
Wiring Turnouts and Control Panel
Ray asks:
“I want to switch my HO scale turnouts with a single switch to also supply power the track and illuminate an LED on the control panel. I am using PECO motors on PECO track. I think that a continuous supply to PECO motors causes them to burn out. I have a number of double pole double throw switches but I am unsure how to wire it to prevent motor burnout. Any thoughts would be appreciated.”
Fitting New Section Of Track Into Gap
Ryan asks:
“We relocated house and moved my layout without any major damage except one section of Atlas Code 83 track. I have a new section to insert, but with joiners, it is longer than the gap it needs to fit. How do I cut the track and ties etc?”
1st Radius Curves
Peter models OO and asks:
“Does anyone have a list of locomotives that will negotiate a 1st radius curve, either Hornby or Bachmann? I know all large steam locos will not work but are there any diesel or electric locos that will work. Thanks in advance for any help.”
Filing Turnouts – Yes? No? and How?
Reece needs guidance if you can help:
“I use Atlas track on my HO layout but have a derailment problem with my new turnout. The cars are in gauge, I checked each one that has derailed. I read to file the ends of the points so the wheels won’t catch, but am unsure about filing the closure and stock rails so they will perhaps fit better. Any tips towards solving this problem and the right way to do it welcomed.”
Free service – You can have your question published for free on the Model Train Help Blog (see the links on this page).
Rerailers Used as Grade Crossings
Stuart posted this question:
“When laying my track I incorporated 2 re-railers (Atlas), which also serve as grade crossings. I model the transition era from steam to diesel which gives me the chance to operate both types of trains. I am wondering whether to remove them or weather then so they appear more authentic?”
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Painting Track – Good or Bad Idea?
Doug H writes:
“Has anyone had success with painting their track to remove the unreal looking shine and black ties? To me black is not the right color as many ties were creosoted and darkish brown not shiny back. Real rails to me look rusty except on the top surface where the trains run. Feedback would be good please.”
Feasibility of 4% Grade
Pete asks:
I have done my HO layout using 2% Grades however one section just does not meet my elevation criteria. I run fairly short trains – 7-10 freight cars pulled by a two loco consist. Will a 4% grade that matches my prototype work?
Fleischmann Profi-Track and American Rolling Stock
Don who model in HO asks:
“I have a very large collection of Fleischmann profi track and turnouts. My layout is an around the room. My Walthers SD60 locomotives run without problems through all turnouts and track. My cars on the other hand derail almost everywhere even on some straight sections. I have inspected the track where the derailments occur and have discovered nothing out of the ordinary. I am getting frustrated. I have spend a great deal of money on the Fleischmann Profi. But I don’t want to spend all of my time fixing derailments. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am using Walthers rolling stock of various sizes with metal wheels and Walthers couplers. Thanks for your thoughts and help.”
N Scale Ballast Quantity
Steve asks:
“When purchasing fine ballast for N scale track, how much track can be completed with a ballast package. Or, how much should I expect to use per 3’ section of track?”
Power and Rail Length Limitations
Bob asks:
“Greetings, I am looking to return to model railroading after many years. Due to space limitations indoors, I am looking to build outdoor layout. Cost factors have me looking at nickle track HO. If I read correctly the newer DCC presents options. I am looking to see how many feet or meters of track can be supplied per power source? Any other support information is gladly welcomed.”
Helix Calculations For Double Track
Joe came across the free helix calculator and is interested to hear from anyone who has constructed a double track helix layout:
“Can a helix calculator be used for a double track layout? What modification, if any, would need to be made?”
Add your comments if you have any advice for Joe with the construction of his double track helix.
A link to use a free helix calculator is available for readers under the Railroad Resources tab in the top Navigation Bar at https://www.modelbuildings.org
Hand-Laying Track
Dale asks readers:
“Hand-laying HO track is fairly easy; simply spike the rails to the ties (sleepers). Does anyone have experience hand-laying N scale, code 80, track? Are the spikes going to be strong enough, or is it better to glue the rails down?”
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