Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
9 x 10 Spare Room Layout
Rickey asks readers:
“Hello everyone , I’m just now getting back into model railroading. I have a 9 x 10 spare bedroom that I plan using for my lay out. I want to build a logging layout and am looking for track ideas. My thought in is HO wider than on3 or will a shay or climax run on HO track.
Converting to DCC
Club member Arnold has been railroading for over 35 years and sent in this article to share:
Contrary to what some people think, wiring for DCC wiring can actually be easier than the older style DC wiring.
Let’s look at some DC scenarios. An older DC layout might have a very basic loop with 2 wires attached at one location, whereas a more complex DC layout might need insulated rails and more power wires leading off to extra sidings (and sections) where you would probably need to turn off one train on one track to run another. If you wanted a couple of trains to operate on the same track you would more than likely separate the run into multiple sections. In that way you could turn off one train to prevent it from getting in close proximity to the train a head of it. Naturally each train would need to be within it’s own section to achieve this. So, unless you have a setup with a double pole switch to an individual section – the trains would all run in the same direction. So, as you can see there are limitations with DC operations.
Compare that to DCC where it’s easy to run bus wires under the baseboard, and then link to the rails using feeder wires. By doing that the power is on and can be left on all the time covering the entire layout. In effect, instead of having multiple wiring feeding out from your switchboard, you only need two main feeder wires.
So despite what you might have heard; wiring for DCC is simpler than for DC. I personally think it is well worthwhile converting over, and it opens up new operational possibilities. However if you are still operating DC, then just switch everything on (in the proper direction), and instead of the old transformer, link up DCC and you’ll have a DCC layout. That said; if your track has long runs you’ll need wire leads following the track beneath and link up extra wire drops along the way (with strong enough wire).
The Digital Revolution In Model Railroading
Model railroading has come a long way from clockwork wind-up toys to sophisticated digital technology. It’s now possible, and relatively inexpensive, to have model trains, accessories, and scenic features perform all kinds of interesting and useful functions.
What Tools To Use When Laying Track
Some time ago Hank sent in his list of suggested tools for laying track:
1. A hobby knife for removing ties [sleepers]
2. Side cutters [if you need to remove any track pins]
3. Snipe nose pliers [for holding the track pins]
4. A small pin hammer
5. A mini-drill with a cutting disk, or a hacksaw [for cutting the track]
6. A pin vice with a very small drill bit [for drilling holes for track pins in the ties]
7. A soldering iron
Tips From Bernie
Bernie sent in these tips to share:
“What I have done for making ballast is this: Dry used coffee grounds. Once dried, mix a small amount of white to white-grey paint in a container. Then stir in the coffee grounds until the paint is absorbed. Place the painted grounds on a tray to dry and viola….. ballast. Also, lavender and rosemary branches make a great base for trees.”
Fixing Problem Track Connections
Jordan asks readers:
“Most of my HO track seems okay except for 3 curved pieces that won’t join perfectly without a slight gap. I am worried about a derailment when cars cross the connections. How can I improve the connections please?”
Controlling More Functions on your Railroad
Thanks to electronic technology it is not only possible to control more functions on your layout, but it’s possible to add lots of exciting new features without using up precious layout space, or it costing you an arm an a leg. Digital technology is not only very clever, and very small, it is also surprisingly inexpensive for what it does. A small micro controller can easily be programmed to perform a number of tasks. This video explains more.
Determining The Correct Car Weight
Club member Troy asks readers:
“I have just worked why I have been having a few problems with train stability on my HO track. I think the weight of some of my HO flat cars is too light and needs increasing, but I don’t know by how much. Is there an easy way to tell if a car is too light? What’s the best way to add weight, where, and how much? Thanks to everyone.”
How To Stop Bogies Derailing on a Turnout
Julian asks readers:
“I have a seemingly intractable problem. The front bogies on my new OO Hornby West Country jump off on the turnout when having to turn. The first of the outside bogies seems to fall out through the gap in the outside curve where the crossing is and before the check rail on the inside has a chance to hold the flange of the inside front bogey. I have tried widening the bogies but what little extra there is before the wheels come off does not help. I have put a piece of foam under the bogies and while that damps the jumping it does not cure it. Help please!”
Constructing a Multi Level Train Layout
John has a question for readers:
“I’m building a multi level OO scale layout, the first level will be a fiddle yard and the second level will be the main area. I need to know what should be the height of my supports pieces between the first level to the second level, enough for me to access the trains on the fiddle yard on the first level and also to access wires and other things?”
A Clever Use For Broken Track Pieces
Robert (a blog reader from NZ) sent in this clever idea to share:
Have you got some broken pieces of track? Don’t throw it away, make a coal store for your steam locos.
Cut the plastic joining the sleepers (ties) together. Glue the sleepers together side by side until you have the length required (include a few broken ones). Then glue a piece of rail parallel to the ground about half way up the sleepers to act as reinforcing as per the photo. You can make a 3 sided or 4 sided store as large as you like this way. My photo shows a 3 sided version with a coaling crane and tubs.
Using Micro Controller Technology On Model Railroads
Just before Christmas I overheard a young guy at a shopping mall train display say something to the effect of “model trains are just for old farts!” True; a lot of us are getting on a bit, but despite what he implied, many of us embrace the newer technologies like DCC, JMRI, LED lighting, and micro controllers etc. In fact; it is those technologies that are attracting many younger folk back to the hobby. And that’s great!
These days the options for improving functionally (and realism) are far more diverse than was the case in the pre-digital era. For example; tiny microcontrollers can now be used effectively for: scenery and train lighting effects, turnout operation, block occupancy detection, signal operations, and even turntable control.
The sky’s the limit…there are all sorts of possibilities for the model railroader. I’m sure that young guy at the shopping mall would be impressed if he only knew how far model railroading has come, and if he understood the clever technologies being uses by some of us “old farts!”.
If you’re not fully up with the some of the technology options, then you’ll probably be interested in this just released e-book that walks through how to use tiny inexpensive micro controls. The downloadable e-book includes lots of photos, diagrams, links to videos etc, and explains (one step at a time) how to use this clever technology. Here’s the link to download the ebook http://www.modeltraincontrols.com
Progress on the Mountain Park Coal Mine Layout
Tim sent in this info to share with readers:
I retired last year and my friend Don and I are building our first layout in my basement in Edmonton Alberta Canada. The table is not very large, being only 40″ X 96″ (1016mm X 2438mm) but more than enough for our first simple HO scale layout. We are loosely basing it on the Mountain Park coal mine which is a ghost town south of Cadomin Alberta that flourished between 1912 to 1950. Don and I took our families camping up there many time as we love the scenery on the eastern slope of the Rockies. Mountain Park had a rail line called the “Blue Flea” but I can’t find out (yet) how it got that name.
The biggest problem we have run into so far is that the small locomotive (#55 in the picture pulling the coal cars) doesn’t seem to like the frogs in Atlas switches, we think because of the short wheelbase… We are currently thinking of switching all eighteen turnouts to PECO electrofrog which seem to solve the problem on the one I did yesterday.
Don is finishing the coal mine layout and I am working on a trestle bridge and then it on to the townsite for both of us. Google “Mountain Park Alberta” for reference images.
Locomotive Motors Lack Power
Chuck asks readers for advice:
“I have several HO diesels that are dcc. I bought them used on e-bay and they are in good condition. They operate with no problems but some of them don’t run as strong as some others. I don’t think the motor needs to be changed, but maybe installing new springs and brushes might give some new zip to some of my weaker engines. Please let me know what you think. I look forward to hearing from you and any advice you can give.”
How Good are Peco Turnouts?
Bill models HO scale, 100 Gauge track and asks readers for their opinions on turnout brands:
“Is there a better quality turnout than Peco? Of all the turnouts that I have, I have three medium turnouts where the train is constantly derailing. I have gauged them and checked all alignments and they look fine, but you hear a thump as the train passes over them. I’m ready to tear everything apart and replace those Peco turnouts.”
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