Troubleshooting
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Running with Digitrax
Lloyd asks:
“I have an HO layout and I have had it up for about 6 years. I have not been able to run it for the last two years. My problem is I can not remember what I have to do to get it running. I have about 10 engines with each having its own number. I am 74 and have not been able to work on it because of an illness. I would like to return to the pleasure of running the trains. Thank you for any help.”
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Install a 5 Pole Motor
Rudy asks readers:
“ I have a much loved Fleischman, 4065 class 65018 steam engine. Is it possible to install a 5 pole motor into this engine? It’s still almost new, but I’ve noticed a big difference between it’s 3 pole, and the 5 pole motor in my other engine, since I like running “dead slow”… Is such a motor even available since it seems to be vertical in design?”
Add your comment or suggestion to help Rudy below.
Point Rails Not Fitting With Stock Rails
Ewan has a problem he is hoping others can help him with:
“I have had some Atlas Code 83 turnouts sitting under my workbench for ages waiting to be installed – you know, it’s one of those things I’ll get around to doing when I have time. Well, now like it seems millions of others around the world with this dreadful virus thing, I have the time to put these Code 83 to good use. Problem is; after a closer look I’m not sure if they are any good.
My concern is with how well the point rails will fit properly into the stock rails. The end tips of the point rails are sticking out of the stock rails by quite a bit. I am wondering if I should file the tip of the point rail to keep it flush with the stock rail. I can probably do this on one side on one turnout, but I am not sure I can do this on the other side because the other point rail is sticking out by quite a lot and I don’t think filing the tip will be enough. In fact there were two problems. The point rail is not fitting into the gap in the stock rail, and the tip of the point rail looks a bit twisted. Does that make sense?
I am worried if I try to straighten it then it might snap off completely. The joint where the actual tab joins the throw bar is really thin. I know if it breaks I could possibly solder the tab back onto the point rail but that is only a maybe. Am I encountering a unique problem or is this more of a wider design fault in the type of turnout?
I would like to hear from anyone else who might have had similar experiences with Atlas Code 83 turnouts, or even with other brands. I am trying to stay positive and keep busy in these troubled times, so don’t want to get all negative and just slang off at Atlas. Having this problem is not good, but at least it is keeping my mind busy right now rather than worrying about bigger problems around the country and world.
Positive thoughts and solutions from others would be very much appreciated right now, and thank you in advance Robert for allowing me to ask this question on your blog. Stay safe to you, your family and friends – and the same goes to everyone else in the model RR community around the world. We need to support each other right now.”
If you have a question you would like to have published for free, simply use the ASK A QUESTION link to submit it for consideration.
NCE Power Cab Problem
Jason models HO and his question is:
“Hello all, I have been of the armchair variety for many years due to funds, usable space, life etc. Over the years I have collected a few locos and finally have the space to build and as of now I have only straight track installed (no turnouts with the possibility of shorts), one DCC factory installed loco and a few older RTR units. When I first hooked up the system and programmed the one loco, things were great, somewhere along the line of installing decoders in the others, it seems the top speed is no where near what it was when I only had the one running.
Additionally, the initial start up response has decreased on the factory unit. The only CV’s I changed were on the older units that I had to install the decoders hardwire. It also seems step 18 or 19 is full (after power loss) and the remaining speed steps up to 28 are unresponsive. Momentum is at 0, all units CV 5 maxed at 255, CV 6 127, CV2 varies a little from one to the other, initial loco unchanged and everything has been triple checked.
All locos run perfectly just slower and this is with only one on the track at a time so I’m not pulling too much juice. Additionally, I noticed that with the loco (any) completely shut off the amp meter still reads .01 to .03 fluctuating, not sure if this is normal or may be a symptom of a failed or partially failing system? Hoping some of you experts can help a tech dinosaur!”
Adding Sound and Lights to P & D Hobbies F Units
Kenneth has a question O scale, 2-rail enthusiast might be able to assist with:
“I have a number of P & D Hobbies F3 and F7 locomotives that I would like to upgrade with sound and lighting. Are there any easy drop in electronics for this?”
Walthers ML SD70 Engine Issues
HO enthusiast Matt sent in this question:
“I have a Walthers ML SD70 that runs almost perfect around my track. Just purchased 2 Scale Trains and 2 Athearn SD40-2’s. All 4 stutter or just don’t go at all. I made a small round test track that I could get them all to work after a few min with help nudging them along and would run fine. put them on my long track even with 2 power points in the middle and nothing again. “
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Problem With Mantua 4-6-0 Locomotive Running Sluggishly
Dean sent in this question in the hope someone can assist:
“I have an HO scale Mantua 4-6-0 Rogers type steam locomotive and am having difficulties trying to figure out why it’s causing problems. It runs sluggish and almost stops at times. I did some troubleshooting by giving it an oil and cleaned the wheels but it hasn’t resolved the issue. I’m wondering if it could somehow relate to the binding? I admit it hasn’t been run much recently. I’m certain it’s not a track or power pack problem because I’ve operated larger engines on the same setup with any problems. It is sure to something that’s fixable, but what? Any thoughts would be very much appreciated. Thanking you.”
Send in your own question for publication using one of the ASK A QUESTION links on this blog.
Add a comment in answer to Deans post by using the COMMENTS link under his post.
Missing Couplings
Mark will hopefully attach a photo in the comments section of his post where he asks:
“ I purchased two HO 4-6-0 hornby steam trains with tenders but having just looked closely I don’t see how I can connect them as there appears to be something missing, am I correct? Will need to attach photos when I can.
See marks photo when he posts it in the comments section under his post.
Beginner Needs Help With HO Tyco 897 Train Set Transformer
Brian needs advice on his Tyco train set:
“I have just inherited a small HO Train set from a family friend. Just wondering where to go to get info on hooking up transformer and testing engines to see if they work?”
Re-Wiring Ballasted Track
Rudy models HO and asks:
“My system is all DC and my ballast is already in place. I realize only now, that I could use an 18 inch section of my layout where I could temporarily switch power, on and off, and let my 2nd engine rest, while continuing use of the first one. I already have a siding wired for this, but could use another. Is there any way to do this without ripping up my ballasted track ?”
Using Double Pole Double Throw Switches With DCC
Callum asks readers:
“When using Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switches with DCC, is it advisable to stop my loco first, or is it okay to throw the switch while my loco is running? My thinking is that I should stop it first?”
Send in your question for publication using one of the many Ask a Question links on this blog.
Insulfrogs or Electrofrogs
Duncan is into N gauge and sent in this question:
“Hi just starting in N gauge, I am planning my DCC railway and want to know about turnouts, do I need Insulfrogs or Electrofrogs?”
Use an Ask a Question link to send in your question for publication.
Problem With Switch Turnout Connectivity
Michael C asks:
“I’m using Atlas switches and turnouts but the connectivity is not as good as it used to be. What should I do?”
Submit your question using the ASK A QUESTION link below.
DCC Decoder Selection
N scale enthusiast Michael has this question:
“I picked up an Alco 479 PA DCC ready loco – a pair of them with the road name Southern Pacific. I’m having a heck of a time finding the right sound decoder for this loco. I believe Alco is Atlas? The current non DCC board says CDN4 DCC Ready PCB. Guidance please?”
022 Lionel Switches
Gary who models O scale asks:
“You have probably answered this before. I have an 022 Lionel switch that the track arm will not fully move to the left or right. I have checked and serviced it three times. Any suggestions? I hate to just dump it. Thanks.”
Heisler Drive-Line Short
John asks readers:
“I have an HO brass Heisler with a square rod and tube for the driveline. I think it was insulated at one time but I can’t figure out what to use as it must slide freely. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.”
Reed detector
Daniel asks:
“Dear all model train guys, I’ve decided to built up my Marklin HO layout by myself. Big challenge! I am trying to understand digital and electronics, would you please give me an explanation about a Reed detector, how it works and how is connected to the CS 3 or K84? Deeply appreciate your suggestions.”
S Scale American Flyer Engine Repairs
John asks readers:
“Do you know someone who works on American flyer older engines? Let me know one way or the other. The trains are late 1940sor early 50’s. Thanks.”
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