Troubleshooting
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Max seeks help:
“I am modelling German N gauge and wonder what height platforms should be as in Germany there seem to be varying heights?”
Glenn sent in this question:
“My late father built his railroad over about 20 years and it is sill set up in the garage and me and my 2 boys get to use it. I am trying to learn some technical stuff for when something goes wrong. When we visited last weekend we noticed some tiny flakes of plaster inside the tunnel. It is old and I think the problem will get worse. I can get my hand inside the tunnel thru the secret door thingy. What should I do to stop more plaster falling?”
View the comments below, or post your own comments or suggestions to help Glenn.
Anthony needs help from experienced railroaders:
“I’m underway with my new HO setup. I will have a couple of runs of over 50ft. I don’t want to soldier direct to the rails unless I absolutely need too. I read that suitcase connectors are the way to go but I’m unsure what feeder and buss wires to use and the color connectors to use?”
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Kirk asks:
“I am just beginning to build a small [3′ x 7′] HO layout and I plan on having quite a few lights and accessories that will require a power source. What would be the best power source, and what voltage/ amperage would be required? I know that I may need to use resistors also. Thank you much for any suggestions you can lend.”
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George a newcomer to N scale poses these questions:
“I have a simple oval layout with two turnouts, both Kato #6 ( 1 ea. Left (R718-15^) and 1ea. Right (R718-15^)). The turnouts provide switching to an inside partial oval that parallels portions of straight sections in the middle of the oval, and the arcing section of the oval at only one end.
The problem I have is this:
1) If I throw both turnouts from the straight to switched position in preparation of my train accessing in the ‘inside’ leg, there is no power on my mainline and the train comes to a stop.
2) If I throw the first turnout (the #6 Left) to the switched position by itself to get the train onto the inside leg, I then have to throw it back to the straight position while simultaneously throwing the second turnout (the #6 Right) from the straight position to the switched position to get the train back onto the mainline.
3) There is no way to set the two switches so the train runs continually from the mainline to the inside leg without manipulating these turnouts as I’ve described.
I just started in this hobby a couple of weeks ago, so my ignorance is profound! But you see, I have a grandson ‘on the spectrum’ who is fascinated by trains and who I hoped would enjoy running trains with me, but this switching scheme is a frustration to him when he attempts to run the train.
Is there a remedy?”
Umbra asks readers:
“So my grandpa passed away a few years ago and one of the many items I received from his collection was a model train. It had 3 pieces of track, 1 Santa Fe locomotive, 1 Santa Fe Shipping car and 1 Union Pacific Coal car both cars being an almost brownish red. Up until now I’d been using them as display pieces but I’ve gotten more into model trains and would like to get them running. Only problem is I don’t know the scale or name of the train. He’d probably own it for years before I got it so there’s no box or instructions for me to check. At first I thought it was a Santa Fe F7 Warbonnet but the fans atop the train are bunched up at the rear of the train and not alligned in the middle, I’m almost 100% sure it’s O scale but I could be wrong. If someone could help me figure out what the train’s called it would help me a lot.”
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Richo who models HO would like suggestions:
“My loco has a habit of coming of the track at a point on the beginning of a curve. It doesn’t derail anywhere else. I ran my eye over the track and it looks okay. What else should I try please?”
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Kerry shares this question and is hoping for answers:
“A friend swears by using automatic transmission fluid on his tracks to reduce the need to clean his rails and for better conductivity. He runs long trains and says there is no loss in traction. He only uses a thin coating of ATF. I am still a bit hesitant to use it because I know ATF can dissolve paint. If it gets on my locos or rolling stock, even from fingerprints, I still think it could damage the paintwork. He doesn’t use it to lube his gears, but he does know someone who uses plastic compatible ATF for that purpose. I would be concerned of the effects if a loco sat around unused for long periods. Am I worrying about nothing?”
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Comment on Kerry’s question (and view the comments) by using the “Comments” Link
Dene asks:
“My 2 MTH Tripplex’s both have dropped the front driveshaft, so front drivers don’t turn round anymore. Does Anyone know how to dismantle the boiler to get into the front driveshaft please? Has anyone else had this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.”
Online Train Club member Jaymie posted this question:
“I can’t get my green, yellow, and red LED’s to shine at the same intensity. They all have the same resistor value but the red light glows brighter which is weird?”
If you can answer Jaymie on why his “Red LED Glows Brighter” add a comment below.
Ross H has this question for blog contributors:
“I have a reasonably small layout which I am wiring for DC operations. I am including blocks to leave engines when not in use. What I’m not sure of is where to position the insulated rail joiners in conjunction to the switch turnouts. Will the placement of the insulated joiner affect the placement of the switch turnouts and frog? Am I right in having the switch on the mainline or approaching block? What else do I need to know please?”
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If you want to see the answers to Ross’s question on “Where To Put Insulated Rail Joiners, Frog and Switch Turnouts” use the Comments link to view, or add a comment.
Warren asks readers:
“I have a Lionel engine with 8604 on side. It has been boxed for 15 years. It will only run in reverse and there are no switches on the engine anywhere. I think we used to change directions by moving the voltage regulator to off and then back on but that does nothing now. It just runs in reverse. Why would this be?”
Colin T wants to here your thoughts:
“I have seen an old HO blue box Athearn EMD SW1200 locomotive that I can buy really cheap. I like it because it’s nicely detailed but heard that older locos like this are not as good to run, being more noisy, not so smooth, and less reliable than their modern counterparts? Is that generally the case? Are they hard to service? I am not so worried about the cost (about $30 to buy) but don’t want to waste loads of time fiddling with it to keep it operating. I know how frustrating that can be. Does someone have old and new locos who could comment? If you have experience with the same Athearn ever better.”
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Chris models N scale and sent in this question for readers:
“The wire between the end wagon and the power train severed during shipping, despite proper packaging. I don’t have much wiggle room to solder the wires together and am afraid to open the unit further due to accidental destruction. The connection is broken between the coupling bridger going into the the cabin that is the main power train for the locomotive. It is the DB Series 420 running from the 1960 to the 1990 in Munich and other cities.
Any suggestions? The train runs great and two of the three wagons light up, except the the one with the severed connection.
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Aiden has this question for readers:
“When I put power to the track one of my OO engines short circuit making me lose power to the track. If I unplug it and wait 10 seconds then plug it back in and try another train that train works. I have Hornby equipment.”
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Trevor W asks readers:
“I’m finding my Bachmann HO Scale EMD GP40 loco derails at different spots along the track and it’s not happening with my other engine. I sense it could be a power or wiring issue as it is a bit sluggish at times. I recently did redo a large portion of my track and the problem has started since doing that, so wonder if that has contributed. What would be my best course of action for resolving this problem please.”
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Bill models Lionel O scale 1.48 and asks:
“My engine only goes in reverse. When I put another engine on tract it can go both forward and reverse. Why is this one engine only going in reverse? Looking for remedies. Thanks.”
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Warren asks this question:
I have a coal car behind my tender engine and the wheels are inclined to spin at times. Is it a cog problem?”
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