Construction
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Workbench Extention
Don asks readers:
I have a layout on a 4x8 workbench. I now want to add on to this bench with another 4x6 bench. How do I connect the track so it can be separated if the benches have to be moved? The scenery I can get myself, but the track laying and alignment is something else. And how do you get the track without a gap?
Readers can comment below.
Track Liftout Sections
Bill has a question for readers:
“When building an HO layout that has a section that will need to be lifted out with track on it how do you maintain the needed alignment of the rails everytime the section is removed then replaced?”
Comment below.
Train Table
Bob asks readers:
I am trying to put together a train layout and I have lots of S scale train stuff. My question is Is there anything I should put down on the plywood before making my layout? It's about 14' by 18'.
Add your comments below.
Are You An Experienced Model Railroader?
If you answered yes to that question, then perhaps you are able to help others by answering some of their model railroading questions on this blog? On the other hand, you could keep all your knowledge and experience to yourself and not share it with those who could really benefit from your thoughts and who would appreciate your suggestions. It is really your choice, but please remember this blog is operated as a free service and it does rely 100% on the contributions from people like you. We want to keep it free, but to do that we need regular contributors who are prepared to answer some of the many questions that get asked. The alternative is for us to pay someone to answer all the questions, but then we would have to charge a subscription to the blog and we don’t really want to do that.
So, if you can help by answering some of the questions on this model train blog, then please do.
OO Gauge Layout Support Structure
John has an OO gauge attic layout and asks readers:
“My attic layout is cantilevered off the roof structure of my bungalow. This keeps the attic floor clear so panels can be lifted to give access to house wiring and central heating pipes without the need to disturb the layout. This gives me an oval 28ft long by 9ft wide. I am trying to make this structure perfectly level by using a spirit level. Building is by clamping, drilling and screwing. There are no nails because hammer blows move members out of position in the clamps. How do I achieve perfect leveling of the baseboards? The hardwood timber framing of the baseboards has been machine cut and is accurate thickness and the baseboard panels are 9mm. ply. But I believe there is about 10mm variation in the support structure throughout the 28 feet run.”
Comment below.
Support for HO Scale Ceiling Layout
Bill wants to hear what readers think about his ceiling train idea:
“I want to build a HO scale tracks around my ceiling. I know it needs to be very rigid. What materials would work. I am thinking of 1″ X 6″ maple with iron book shelve braces. I can see the 30″ radius corners will need special stiffening. Your help would be much appreciated. Thank you.”
Comment below.
Baseboard Construction In Loft
John has a question for readers on baseboard construction. He is planning to build his layout in the loft so will need to be fully aware of the load capacity of the loft. Safety always needs to be the number one priority when building layouts in an attic or loft space. John asks:
“I am just starting to build layout in my loft. What is your advice on baseboard material, chipboard, plywood, mdf, fiberboard, or something else.”
Comment below.
Multi-Level Layouts
Chicha wants feedback from readers on constructing multi-level layouts:
“What pitfalls should one avoid when building a multi-level HO shelf style layout?”
Comment below.
Baseboard Construction With Helix
John has a question for readers on baseboard construction with a helix:
“If you are creating a gradient to take a track from normal baseboard level to a high level section and this gradient goes around a curve at one end of the layout (assuming oval form), then the track base is part of a HELIX!!!!
You cannot therefore use normal rigid baseboard material like 9mm plywood or chipboard.
What would other members suggest in this instance in order to twist the base material into the shape of a helix?”
Comment below.
N Gauge Connection To High Level
John wants advice from readers and asks:
“I want to create a raised circuit which will be detachable from the lower level for storage and maintenance. Unfortunately my carpentry is not very good and I am concerned about miss-alignment of the rail connections linking the levels. I was wondering if there are any products on the market which make the track connections easy to take apart and reassemble so that the trains will not encounter problems passing over it through miss-alignment. As I am using Fleischmann N gauge ballasted track something from them would be preferable but I would consider any product that works.”
Comment below.
What To Put The Train On?
This reader is returning to the hobby and asks:
“What kind of table do I use to put my model train on. I have a large basement with plenty of room. What is the best surface for laying down track? I remember years ago using cork bed and nailing down the track to this on a 4X8 foot sheet of plywood. Is this still the way its done?
Comment below.
Constructing A High Level Station Above The Baseboard
Colin wants to construct a baseboard and needs help from those who have built one and asks:
“I want to build a high level station above my main baseboard. I am using sundeala on 2″ x 1″ framing for the main baseboard. What size and type of framing should I use to support the sundeala on the higher level tracks?”
If you think you can help Colin, use the green comments link below to add your suggestions.
Platform Access Problems
Jack wants to hear from anyone who has built a platform and overcome access issues:
“I plan on building a 9 feet wide and 7 feet deep platform. The back and left wall are solid and the right side is fixed window. I don’t want to crawl around on the platform, but how do I get to the back? I plan on mountains along the back but while I can crawl under I don’t want to see an opening or have a trap door that is visible or crosses tracks. Any help out there?”
Comment below.
HO Scale NY City Subway Layout with Underground Girders
Marty is about to start a new model railroad project and is looking for guidance from those in the know.
“I am just startng an HO scale NY City subway layout. I am looking for suggestions on what to use for the underground girders and other supports for the tunnels. I wish to make it look realistic with a plexiglass top which will have city street scene on it.”
Offer suggestions below.
Hard Insulation Board and Track Clearance on N Layout
Darrell is building an N scale layout and is hoping someone with experience will offer some guidance and words of wisdom:
1. I plan on using the hard insulation board to raise my track. Is there a preferred thickness, brand and type?
2. How do I cut the board for the slope?
3. It has been recommend 2″ clearance for bridges over other track. Is that from top of lower track to bottom of bridge or is that from top of track to top of track? Using the 2″ thick foam board or doubling the 1″ would give me the 2″ But when I add the cork roadbed I loose some of that clearance.
4. What is the best way to attach the track to the cork roadbed and the cork roadbed to the foam board or the plywood decking?”
To advise Darrell, use the green Comments link below an add your comments after registering (it takes about 2 minutes if you haven’t yet done it.)
Kato HO Track Stabilization On Plywood
Ray has sent in these photos and a question or two to test reader’s knowledge:
I have Kato HO track on my train layout which is on plywood with a 30% directly on the plywood while 70% is on Styrofoam, plaster covered risers. I would like to secure at least key places from movement. I would rather not use track nails. Can someone advise please.
Should I drill a small hole through the reinforced plastic and placing small screws into the plywood on some key curves in order to keep the firmness?
If I needed to further secure the track on the inclines should I use small amounts of hot glue or does anyone have any other suggestions?
I would like to avoid having the permanency of nails (easier to remove screws) and also avoid continuous glue around the entire track bed – just secure enough for good traction and prevent derailments from up / down movement. Thus far I have placed a little hot glue in a few spots to prevent the shifting and I have almost completed my troubleshooting so my train does not derail or uncouple going around curves and up and down the grades.
To help Ray please participate in the discussion using the green Comments link below.
To help Ray please participate in the discussion using the green Comments link below.
Three Level Model Railroad HO Layout
Martin wants planning advice from readers and asks:
“I am planning to build a three level HO (underground, street, elevated) subway system. I would like to know what material to use and how to create a realistic underground effect and structure for the elevated portion?”
Comment on Martin’s posting below.
Two Inch Foam On Layout?
Bruce needs help and advice and asks readers:
“I am curious why people are telling me to use two inch foam board to put my lay out on – why?”
Give Bruce advice by using the green comments link.
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