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Double-Crossover Switch
Double-Crossover Switch
Leo has a question for experienced readers and asks:
“I have kato track with a doublecrossover switch. I’m trying to run 2 trains in different directions. How would I wire this track up so the two trains would go in two different directions. Someone please help me solve this problem.”
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Converting From DC To DCC
“I am thinking about going with DCC instead of DC and I would like to know which DCC system is favored for someone just getting into DCC. My layout will be 27′ X 17′ HO with upper and lower levels. What DCC system would others who use DCC recommend?”
Circuit Diagrams
John has a question for those experienced in DCC operation and asks:
“It is possible to wire the rail such that, when selected to do so, a train approaching a station will automatically slow down and stop. Does anyone know where to buy circuit diagrams for this action, or any other ‘special’ action for DCC control can be found? NB. I am a 69 year old retired electronics technician new to this wonderful hobby, designing my first and last 10 steam loco layout.”
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Classic Toy Trains
Skip has a question for fellow railroaders and asks:
“In a lost/misplaced issue of CLASSIC TOY TRAINS, there was an article depicting the Lionel Disappearing Train layout. I believe that it was a dealer display with a Scout set. The article went on to show not only the track plan, but also listed the required track pieces and the basic directions to re-create this amusing layout. Could someone please provide, or at least direct me to a source for this plan? I’m sure that I could manage to figure this out through trial and error, but I want it to be done CORRECTLY THE FIRST TIME. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for anyone’s assistance in this matter.”
Industrial Siding Layouts
Jim has a question for experienced model railroaders on industrial sidings and asks:
“I bought Robert’s book several years ago and have found it very useful. I need help! Everytime I design a layout I always struggle with industrial sidings. They are very boring and make no sense. I don’t any good ideas on what to design. I am looking for drawings of industrial siding layouts that I can incorporate directly into my layout. Can someone help me please?”
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Loss of Power to Tracks
Answer below if you can help this reader with his question:
“This may be hard for your readers to answer without seeing a diagram of my layout. I am doing whats called in the book, a ‘Monopoly/Octopus’ layout. Its setup so you can be going one direction, switch to another track and end up going the opposite direction. At one point when the track comes to a ‘X’ crossing, the power stops. If you switch direction on the power supply, it can continue on its way. Why am I losing power at this point? I heard it has something to do with plastic rail joiners in this area, and maybe adding in a switch to cut power. This is confusing to understand for me. Any ideas on what little info I just gave you.”
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Track Base
Jimmy has a question a kind reader might like to answer:
“What is the most effective track base for an ho layout? (including materials)”
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Making A Lake
Aaron has a question for those scenery experts out there and asks:
“My layout is 8′ x 16′. How can I assimilate lake without cutting a hole in my platform?”
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DCC Chip
Mali has a brief question for anyone with DCC experience and asks:
“How do I fit a DCC chip to a bachmann 2-8-0 wd Austerity?”
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Reversing Track
Grace has a question for anyone who can advise her on loops and wyes:
“My table is 4’x 78″. I’d like a layout to be able to go both clockwise and counterclockwise using either 18″R or 15″R track or both. Do I use wyes, loops, or what? Any ideas welcome. I have both EZ track(Bachmann) and Atlas. At the moment it’s all on one level but I can be flexible if that’s what it takes.”
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Painting Small Parts
Geof has kindly sent in this advice to help others in the hobby.
Working in N scale requires a steady hand, particularly when painting small plastic parts or details on structures or vehicles. I have found that using your typical rubber molding compound as a masking agent can make this work much easier. I have a number of the Woodland Scenics structures that, if painted in two or three tones (broad colors for the overall structure with detail painting for windows, doors, trim work, etc.) can be very difficult whether you have a steady hand or not. I paint the detail work first (window sills, frames, doorways) and then come back and carefully apply a heavy coat (or two) of the molding compound directly on the painted surfaces after it has dried over night.
Then, after the rubber molding compound has dried (a few hours), I can spray paint the larger areas for a nice, uniform surface. After this second layer of paint has dried well (over night is best), I pick at the edge of the window sill areas or whatever with a toothpick to work the rubber compound free of the model.
Using my fingernails or a pair of tweezers, I find the hardened rubber pulls away very easily from the model. You may find that some small areas require touch up repainting where the rubber molding compound was applied too generously but if you were careful, these areas are few.
It takes a little practice but I have found this technique works best because I have found without it, the two (or three) different colors tend to smear into one another as one dissolves the adjacent color(s). This tip works for any scale (obviously) and only on plastic. It MIGHT work on other surfaces like cardboard or paper but I have never tried it.
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Building A Train Table
Norm is about to build a train table and asks readers for suggestions:
“I am starting to build my new train table lay out I’m using 4′ x 8′ plywood sheets on a 2” x4” frame. I’m debating on how high the table should be. I am thinking 36”long legs & the overall thickness of the plywood / insulation board is 1 1/2 ”which would give me a table ht. of 37 1/2”. “
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Minimum Radius Under 36 Inches
Ken is new to the hobby and wants help:
“Doing my first model train since I had one when I was a kid. I am gonna do steam from when the C&NW was in Wisconsin serving the Neshkoro, Princeton, Wisconsin area early 1900’s.
I am guessing 2-4-0 thru 4-6-4 and maybe 4-8-4, if there are such steam engines. I am just starting to get it together.
Now the question – what would the minimum radius I could use. (keep it under 36″) fingers crossed. Thank you to anyone who is willing to help.”
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The Future Of Kato
Thomas has a question about Kato and asks readers:
“What does KATO’s future hold for HO locomotives? I am a huge proponent of their engines but have not heard of any plans for them to release GEVOs or SD70Aces, etc. Can someone please shed some light on the subject? Thanks in advance!”
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Locos Not Climbing Inclines
David wants someone to help him and asks:
“I have constructed a layout with inclines going over girder bridges — double track. I have used foam to support to the gradients, because I found that the Hornby supports were too steep.
However, I find some locomotives will not not climb the inclines. These tend to be those OO locomotives without traction tyres. I would be interested in what others think?”
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Sand Pile at Asphalt Plant
Dorothy has been creative but now needs some help:
“Last winter I made two lovely piles of sand out of brown sugar. They held up very well in the dry basement. Now that the air has been a bit damp I had to scrape them up today. How do I construct a pile of sand?”
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DCC, AC and DC
A reader asks:
“I have a DCC engine and controller. Can someone please tell me if the tracks run on ac or dc from the controller? That is – does polarity of the power connections matter (assumed no if ac) and for a DCC system do I need to worry about track connections on return loops (mixing and connection of right and left tracks) in my track layouts?”














