Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
The Advantages of Using LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) for Model Railroads
LEDs have numerous applications in model railroading including:
• Locomotive headlights and internal passenger car lighting
• Warning lights for the rear end of trains (cabooses, passenger cars etc)
• Structure illumination
• Signage illumination
• Railroad signals
• Panel indicators
LEDs also have many advantages over traditional incandescent lights including:
• The cost: It is hard to put an exact figure on it, but LEDs typically are around 20 to 40% of the cost of traditional incandescent light bulbs (depending on the project).
• Long life: Again depending on the usage, LEDs will typically last tens of thousands of hours. They will well and truly outlast traditional incandescent bulbs which almost eliminates the need to replace bulbs.
• Heat: LED bulbs give off virtually no heat so are a lot safer inside plastic structures or enclosures.
• Current: LEDs will typically draw just 10-30 milliamperes (0.010 – 0.030 amperes), which is much less than an incandescent bulb, so on larger projects you might get by with a smaller power supply.
• Color and consistency: You might have noticed how the color of incandescent bulbs becomes whiter when the brilliance increases. This is because they predominantly glow at red wavelengths. When the brightness increases so does their heat output. This also reduces the life expectancy of incandescent bulbs. By comparison Red, blue, yellow and green LEDs are monochrome so their color remains constant regardless of their brilliance.
Loco Bachmann H0 GP30 Diesel DCC
Oscar asks readers:
“I have a Loco Bachmann H0 GP30 Diesel DCC with a Digitrax DCS 50 Zephir. My question is – the lights, forward and reverse, are in a low intensity, how can I do to put both in high intensity ? Thanks.”
Proto Engines DCC Tiu
Joseph is into O scale and asks:
“I’m just starting out. I bought a proto 3 diesel and a tiu so everything I’ve read in the tiu manual says proto 2. Is this generic for proto 2 and proto3?”
Downsizing from HO to N Scale – How to Join Modules
Alex asks readers:
“We just moved into a smaller house and I did a lot of damage to my old HO layout deconstructing and moving it. It was harder than I thought it would be. Anyway, I decided to sell off the stuff to friend and start again in N scale because I don’t have as much space. This time I’ll build it in modules, but I’m unsure what’s the best way to join them for smooth rail joins, good connections, and easy dismantling if I do another house move?”
How To Solder Power Feeds
Kevin seeks advice from readers:
“Does anyone have any tips or suggestions for soldering wires on to my rails as power feeds? I am a bit heavy nanded with solder and never seem to get it perfect.”
Sileby Model Railway Exhibition
Damien from the UK sent in this photo he took at the Sileby Model Railway Exhibition. It looks like British Telecom (BT) are do some work on the phone lines – great detail.
Finding Figures For Railroad Scene
Ed asks readers for advice:
“I recently read – Bring your layout to life by adding people and animals. Put the people in period dress. I agree whole heartedly, but I’ve encountered a problem. I’m currently putting together a short point to point N scale 4’x8” depiction of the area outside Yankee Stadium in the early 30’s. I’ll be running a trolley and have already got the buses and cars and trucks for the scene, but trying to locate 40-50 “period dressed” people has been a challenge. Men wore suit sand hats and ladies wore dresses and hats to a ball game in the period and I’ve yet to locate anything similar. Any ideas?”
Train Track Mystery
Daniel wonders if readers can solve his mystery:
“I have a mystery (for me). Have about 17 feet of what appears to be 027. Three rail in stainless. However, the pins have one end that fits the 027 and the other end fits O Gauge. Doesn’t appear to be handmade. What do I have? Thanks.”
Switch Machines and Power
Ethan asks readers for advice:
“Hey guys. I have been thinking about starting up my own model railroad in either HO or N scale and including a switching yard and a few sidings. I got to looking into the wiring for switch machines and decided that I want to use toggle switches with indicating lights. However, I noticed that most toggle switches will constantly power the switch to whichever line it is switched to. Will this not burn up the motor by constantly feeding it power trying to get it to move even after it has switched the turn out?”
Drawing Curves
Des asks readers:
“I am looking at the possibility of a model rail system in the future and I would like to draw the track layout first. My question is when drawing curves and the diameter is quoted at 20 ins – is that measured at the center of the two tracks or the inside or outside rail. I will most likely go OO.”
Spot The Difference
Remember as kids playing “spot the difference” between two cartoons or drawings… well, why shouldn’t we have the same fun a few years on?
The two photos below of a model layout scene look the same, but there are actually 6 subtle differences between the two. Can you spot them?
If you want to be the first to supply the 6 answers, you can submit them using the “Comments” link below.
It would also be good to get your feedback (using the “Comments” link). Would you like to see more “Spot the Difference” photos added in future weeks?
Reader poll results since posting these photos showed 84% wanted to see more “Spot The Difference” photos in coming months, so YES will bring you more.
Congratulations to Carl, Ron, Mickael, Lou, Ken, John R, Gordon, William, and Newman who were the first to correctly spot all 6 differences. You can see their answers in the comments (see below).
Problems Lining Up Track
David asks readers:
“My attempts at laying the base cork using the track centers is roving problematic, because I’m finding it hard to mark the actual line with my track in place on the plywood. I think I need a tool to mark the center line. Trying to line it up by eye is near impossible. I thought maybe attaching a pencil to a two wheel truck might work if I could mark a dot through the mounting hole of the truck. Does anyone have any brighter ideas? What do other use to solve this problem? I hope my question makes sense. My scale is HO.”
Dull Grainy Solder – Why?
Ben asks readers:
“I know I must be doing something wrong because my solder joints look dull and kind of grainy. Any tips?”
Compatibility of 1/54 Autos with What Scale Trains?
Cheri asks readers:
“I want to build a car lot near my train. I have 25 1/54 cars, and am hoping that they will work near an N scale train set. Thank you.
Questions about Using LED Lights as Locomotive Headlights
Aaron asks readers for advice:
“I have heard so many good things about LEDs, so am thinking about upgrading my N scale DCC diesel loco headlights, and maybe using them for ditch lights and markers. Does anyone have any tips for powering them independently, what type to use for each function, how to get a constant intensity from each light, other uses for LEDs etc. And any other tips appreciated. Thanks.”
How To Protect Points From Ballast
Club member Trevor sent in this tip to share:
Laying ballast can be a tough learning curve, because once it’s in place it is difficult (if not impossible) to remove. Particular care is needed around point-work to stop ballast from interfering with railroad operations. If ballast finds its way into places it shouldn’t, then there is the potential for mechanisms to seize up… I know, because it’s happened to me. The stuff is so fine and if it’s not glued down it will move. Also, when glue is added – well, that can cause problems too.
To prevent problems, I now apply a small amount of locomotive oil around all the moving parts on each point. This stops the glue adhering to the moving parts on the points. I also use a small hand water sprayer/mister to dampen the ballast. This helps the glue flow between fine particles of ballast. This also restricts the ballast from moving whilst applying the glue.
How To Change Couplers
Patty asks readers:
“Is there a way for an amateur to change couplers? And what are the best kind? I have two different kinds in HO and would like to have all the same. I am a real novice at this. Thanks in advance.”
Voltage Drop Can Cause Trains To Slow Down Or Stop
Club member Ashley sent in this tip to share:
If you spot your train slowing down or stopping only in some places the problem may be caused by voltage drop. It could be that the distance to the nearest power source is too far or that perhaps the quality of the joints between track sections has weakened the flow of power.
Begin by tightening any loose joiners and if required, add a second set of wires from your power supply to the track in the problem area. Take care to connect each wire to the correct rail.
On larger layouts, especially with DCC setups, it is suggested a bus wire (with feeders) to multiple track sections be used. Keep in min
d that using a heavier wire is more reliable than using the rails themselves. You can attach smaller feeder wires between the rail and the bus as often as required. Generally, feeder wires are attached every 6 to 12 feet or so.
Another option is to solder the rail joiners themselves. Doing this should minimize any voltage drop, as well as help get rid of any kinks that could potentially cause a derailment. Also consider leaving some joiners open to compensate for contraction or expansion over time.
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