Scenery
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Marshall models HO and asks:
“I would like to start ballasting my track with Woodland Scenics medium ballast and need to know if there is a rule of for how much material might be used for a specified length of track. My track, which totals some 200 foot, sits on a cork roadbed. Thank you.”
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I’ve had numerous requests to publish some more SPOT THE DIFFERENCE puzzles as it’s been some time since I ran the last one. See how you go with this model railroad layout photo. At first glance the photos look identical, but there are actually several differences. How many can you find?
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Daniel sent in this question:
“ I am installing numerous street lights on my O scale layout. How can I connect them to power/neutral wiring without soldering all of those connections. Can I use termination blocks? Or are the numerous connections unavoidable? Thanks”
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“I use typewriter correction tape for vehicle road traffic lane dividers, but I have run out. Where can I buy that little thin stuff online?”
Ron models HO and asks:
“I want to add a small hill in the foreground and some mountains for my trains to pass through further back on the layout. I’m more concerned about the mountains because I will need probably two tunnels and am not sure of the correct dimensions to make the mountains so they don’t overly dominate the scene or take up too much space. I don’t have tall superliners, so working on an average height of 2 inches I thought the tunnel clearances should be another inch. I’m just not sure how tall, wide, and deep to make the mountains bearing in mind I’ll have a bridge crossing a canyon between the mountain tunnels as a feature. What would your readers suggest? I know I will need a couple of hatches to get to train derailments.”
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Glenn sent in this question:
“My late father built his railroad over about 20 years and it is sill set up in the garage and me and my 2 boys get to use it. I am trying to learn some technical stuff for when something goes wrong. When we visited last weekend we noticed some tiny flakes of plaster inside the tunnel. It is old and I think the problem will get worse. I can get my hand inside the tunnel thru the secret door thingy. What should I do to stop more plaster falling?”
View the comments below, or post your own comments or suggestions to help Glenn.
Brendon sent in this idea to share:
I make rock faces using aluminum foil – the stuff found in the kitchen. It is cheap and easy to use. I put my gathered rock (s) on my bench and wrap in a piece of tin foil. I gently push the foil around the sides so the rock is wrapped tightly with one surface exposed. This is so I can remove the rock (s) without damaging the foil mold I just created.
I then fill the foil mold with plaster. I found tinting the plaster with a few drops of paint color is good because it takes away the stark white color of the plaster which makes it easier to paint when it is dry. I put small pieces of fiberglass mesh tape which I buy cheap in a roll from a DIY store into the plaster before it starts to dry. This gives the plaster rock or rock face more strength when it is cured and removed from the foil mold.
When the plaster rock is dry it is ready for some final shaping or smoothing off with a craft knife or coarse sandpaper before painting. The rock face needs to fit in a specific space so some minor shaping is usually necessary. I also scrape and chisel out some areas to rough them up a bit to resemble crevices and indentations in the rock. I hope this helps someone.
Next time I do this I will try using Hydrocal and perhaps experiment with spraying the inside of the foil mold with a fine mist of diluted dishwash liquid to make it easier to remove the plaster rock without damaging it. Worth a try.
Online Train Club member Ross sent this:
“I have a plan to make the lining for my tunnel using foam-core board. It doesn’t matter if I use black foam board or white because it will be covered anyway. My thinking is to cut out three pieces (2 sides and tunnel roof) to 16 inches in length. I saw where you cover each piece of foam with plaster gauze before applying Sculptamold. When dried properly, I will spray each length with matt black paint before gluing the 3 pieces together. Once in place, I intend attaching the portals and retaining walls I have already made from plans I downloaded. They turned out good. Then I will build the mountain and greenery on top. I think it should all come together nicely. Have I missed anything?”
Walt H posted this question:
“I would like some suggestions for gluing printed photographic backdrops to MDF board? I don’t want any thing that dries to quick as I will need to work the backdrop down in between the substrate and scenery. I will also need time to make sure the edges are plumb. That’s why I can’t use spray adhesive. Ideas from people who have done would be good.”
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Ron from Leicester north of London in the UK sent in these photos taken at a Peterborough Arena Model Rail Show. He apologizes that a couple of them are a little blurry, but I thought they were so interesting, they deserved to be published regardless.
These photos are a wonderful example of a model train display telling a story. As many experienced hobbyists know; it is always a good start to write a short story (or series of notes) about the scene or industry you intend to create, or to thoroughly research aspects of a real railroad if you intend to model it. Using the ‘prototypical’ approach is to take a real full-sized railroad and model its operation at a certain point during a certain period in time.
Obviously is is easy to take the detailing to extremes, but often it is the attention to detail that adds the real interest and realism to a railroad display. Replicating a real life scene requires the location to be constructed so as to closely resemble the real community and surroundings as accurately as possible, if that is the way you decide to go. Others in the hobby just like to do their own thing and create a scene from their own imagination, and that’s okay too. The important aspect of this wonderful hobby is to enjoy what you are doing, and create something that you personally want to create, regardless of whether you want to create a prototypical replica, or something created from your imagination.
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“I’ve heard Elmer’s white glue is good for laying down the track with ballast. Problem is it takes some time to properly set hard if using it for other purposes. For gluing plastic model figurines in place it’s hopeless. They inevitably fall over. Does one of your members know of a hobby adhesive that will dry and set hard quickly and one that is useful for sticking plastic model figures to the ground?”
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There’s an old rule in this hobby to add people and animals to model railroad scenery to bring the scene to life, but this is an interesting twist to that concept. This grave-side funeral gathering was spotted by Walter at the Balatonfüred International Model-Railway Exhibition, Hungary. It certainly adds interest to scene and is something a little different from what you are likely to see on most layouts.
17 new designs have just been added to the range of OO/HO and N scale plans at modelbuildings.org including a fire damaged background building and a city fire station. The fire damaged building is realistically detailed to show charcoal damaged wood around the windows, soot, and even broken windows. There are so many possibilities for the hobbyist to add to the scene with emergency vehicles, bystanders watching on etc. Now available on the newly designed ModelBuildings.org website.
Just released are downloadable PDF backdrop plans to construct a cinema, department store, and two shops with apartments above. These plans are available to download in HO/OO and N scale. Exclusive to https://www.modelbuildings.org
EXCITING NEWS!
The https://www.modelbuildings.org website has just had a major upgrade to make it easier to find your way around the huge range of downloadable OO/HO and N scale photo realistic plans.
PLUS NEW DESIGNS & MORE ON THE WAY!
17 new designs have just been added with more on the way in coming weeks and months. You can now click on the various links on the HOME PAGE to check out the special buy bundle deals and individual plans in a range of categories including: Residential, Industries, Towns / Cities / Shops, Railroad Structures, Farm Buildings, Shipping Containers, Wild West / Mining, Wall / Tunnels / Bridges and more.
Here are 12 new house plans that have just been added to the range.
Ray sent in another interesting photo from the Derby Model Railway Exhibition.
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The modelbuildings.org site has a range of plans for making a residential street scene including 3D UK and USA style houses as well as a range of space saving scale model houses in low relief for positioning against your backdrop.
The feedback on these 8 scale model houses has been excellent with many readers telling their friends about them. The designer of these 8 plans certainly spent considerable time perfecting the accurate and intricate details… and it shows.
The 8 scale model house plans are available now for 70% off the individual listed price.
Verandas and posts can easily be made using balsa wood and then be painted. You can print out extra windows and doors and glue then behind cut out doors and windows to give an added 3D effect, or you can cut out 3 sides of a door or window and leave it slightly open… again adding to the 3D realism. Ground cover is obviously not included, but most in the hobby will want to do this themselves anyway.
Bob is hoping someone can help:
“I’m considering getting one of those really big 1/72 German WWII military railway gun models for the HO layout and putting it on some kind of track.
I’m thinking for a static display I could probably get by with just a few feet of track. I believe I could make the track to suit the model’s trucks using code 100 rail on plastic HO tie strips. Of course I would prefer to be able to pull the models like any other piece of rolling stock.
The only way I can see to set up the models to be pulled by a loco would be to use HO track and either modify the model’s trucks or replace them. I doubt if the model’s wheels and axles would be suitable for actually moving the model. The prospect of scratch building four or eight 5-axle or 6-axle trucks is a bit daunting.
Has anyone set up one or more of those big guns on a layout, or tried to do it? Thanks for sharing your experience.”