Troubleshooting
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
N-Scale DoodleBug With Lights But No Drive Power
Paul writes:
“I picked up a supposedly never used N-scale DoodleBug the DCC version. After just a short time on the track, it abruptly stopped. The lights are working but there is no drive power. I am unsure what to check for. Any suggestions would be great thanks.”
Please add any suggestions below if you can assist Paul.
Locomotive Pulling Power Formula
Orjan is hoping someone can assist:
“A friend mentioned a formula I could use to calculate the pulling power of my OO trains, but he couldn’t remember the exact details of how it worked. He said it based on weights, number of cars, gradient percentage and some other factors he couldn’t recall. Does anyone out there know the details and how to use it? I would just like to know. Thank you.”
Derailing Around Curves
Winston models N-scale and asks:
“I just purchased a new GEN 4 Evo. I love the look and sound. However, has anyone had a problem with them derailing? It only derails on 11″ radius curves. (I don’t have a 9 3/4″ on my layout). It always jumps off a quarter of the way through the curve. Yes, the track is level and soldered. I even added some superelevation. That made no difference. My GEN 4 Evo still derails.”
Swapping Plastic Wheels For Metal Wheels
Arthur posted this question:
“I have a lot of HO cars (different makes) with plastic wheels and over winter want to gradually swap them for metal which I think will run better. What size should I get? I see there are 33inch and 36inch. Does the make matter?”
To view the answers or add your own suggestion, leave a comment below.
Reversing Loop – Insulating Rail Joiners
Jacob seeks help from readers:
“I read where with 4 tracks I could install insulating rail joiners and wire a polarity reversing module, but I don’t really want reversing modules. Can I just connect another power lead to the dead loop section instead? I’m DCC by the way.”
If you can assist Jacob, please add your comments below.
Rerailer Issues – What Am I Doing Wrong?
Ryan asks:
“My layout has 4 powered rerailers and I thought I would connect my first rerailer on one side to the control board and connect from the other side of that rerailer to the next rerailer and continue from there. I connected my main feed and all seemed ok until I joined up the next rerailer. My control started to flash quickly which I presume is a warning I have done something wrong. What? Thanks in advance.”
What Is The Minimum HO Tunnel Height Clearance?
Kevin D asks readers for advice:
“I’m progressing with my HO layout construction and have some tracks already operational. I nearly reached the stage of building a long tunnel where the incline will be 2%. I don’t run double or tri-level auto racks or many high cars, but still need to allow enough height clearance. I’m thinking 3” to 4” clearance above the railhead if I need to rerail cars, but I don’t want to make the clearance too high and spoil the dark mystery of when the train disappears and reappears. What do you think I should go with?”
Bachmann 0-6-0 Noise Problems
Ross writes:
“I acquired (for free) an old Bachmann 0-6-0 loco which makes quite a clatter from the side rods when running. I’m not sure if they are supposed to make so much noise? Does anyone else have the same engine and does it make a lot of noise?”
8 Point Checklist For Servicing Locomotives
Michael R kindly sent in these tips to share:
I have had a bit of experience working on locomotives to get them working efficiently, so can share some things I learned so far. I numbered the key points:
1. Take your time. Fixing or servicing a locomotive should not be rushed.
2. An older or well-used locomotive needs to be disassembled to locate any faults or to be properly serviced.
3. That is the only way to see inside to inspect and clean everything including all the moving parts.
4. That involves checking and removing the trucks, U-joints, wheel bearings, gears, electrical contacts, and other things.
5. When taking things apart, you might find some broken parts. If so, replace them if doable.
6. Consider substituting spare parts from other locomotives that couldn’t be repaired.
7. Occasionally gears can get cracked and dirt gets can into things. Take your time because cracked gears are difficult to spot. A missing gear tooth on the other hand should be easy to see.
8. When your inspection is complete, you can lubricate everything when putting the parts back together. Use proper greases and oils.
I just tried to keep to the basics, but other people might want to add to my list.
Trains Will Not Run
Mike posted this question to others in the hobby:
“ I have two o-scale trains on separate tracks with separate power sources (transformers). The systems worked well for about a year or two, but now the trains will not move even with full power. I can hear them trying to start, but no movement. Any suggestions on how to get them to run please?”
Hornby R8072 Point Problem
Bruce asks:
“Hi, when I move my Hornby R8072 point to switch trains to my extension track the train slows and usually stops. Any ideas?”
Add your comments and see the answers below.
Removing Oxidized Greenish Stuff From Trucks
Jeremy writes:
“I dug out an old Mallard engine that belonged to my late uncle. The front nose if that’s what it’s called looks very sleek a bit like the modern bullet trains. Very different from most engines I think. I don’t have a track to test it on but would like to remove the greenish oxidized stuff on the trucks. I’m hoping it is only surface damage. How do I remove the oxidization without causing damage?”
Replacing Plastic Wheels and Plastic Couplers
Bendt seeks your help:
“Hi, I got a cheap job lot of old wagons, tank cars etc at a garage sale. The problem is being attached to the trucks they mostly have snap-in plastic wheels and plastic horn couplers. I tried converting one car but it was very fiddly. Am I wasting my time trying to make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear? Should I just start over with new cars? Thoughts appreciated.”
Write and view COMMENTS below.
Running Trains With Larger Wheel Flanges
John L posted this question and is hoping for some help:
“I have a layout which accepted the larger flange on the older models but basically will not look at the finer standards. Should all the track be level horizontally, or should there be some superelevation? The wheel profile should ?? get the train around the curves?”
Add your comment below.
Securing Kato Track in Place
Joseph asks readers:
“I need some help with product screws for securing my N scale Kato track. I don’t want to use glue or nails because somewhere down the line if I want to change the layout screws it will be a lot easier. I tried some but the head interferes with the height of the rail and the bottom of trains hit them. Any thoughts?”
Can I Leave My Digitrax DCC Controller Switched on 24/7?
Victor asks readers:
I have a Digitrax DCS 52 controller without a power switch, but it does have a track power switch . I’m in the habit of unplugging the power cable from the controller after each session, but I have forgotten a couple of times. I am nervous leaving it on over night. Does anyone leave their controller plugged in all the time? Can I just switch off the power to the track when not in use?
Contribute your opinions and answers below using the COMMENTS link.
Fish Plates on Rail Track
Tony asks:
“What is the best way to put fishplates on OO rail track please?”
Banking On Curve
Tony models OO gauge and asks:
“I think my 10 inch inside radius 180-degree curve built on a wallpaper paste table needs some sort of banking underneath to prevent the engine and rolling stock coming off at any speed. So my question is how high should the outside of the banking be compared to the inside, which I suspect to be zero?”
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