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Flex Track On Module Joint OUCH!!!
Ryan shares this question:
“I know I got things wrong when I built my layout with 2ft x 4ft modules and had some flex track split on the curve. I shouldn’t have used flex track on the module joint…I know that now OUCH!! Is there a quick fix, or do I need to relay the track?”
If you can assist Ryan, please add your suggestion or comments under this post.
Is Your Track too close to the edge of the benchwork?
Space limitations may tempt you to run the track close to the edge of the benchwork. Doing so could allow for an extra track, but the big risk is that your prize loco could end up wrecked on the floor.
The accident might not be the result of an operational derailment. Instead, it might simply be because someone caught the train with their elbow, or perhaps an earthquake shook it free. When gravity comes into play the only direction is down, and the only thing stopping your loco will be the solid floor which could be several feet away.
Trains generally look longer when they disappear momentarily behind a tree, some vegetation or a structure. Where feasible, try and move the track at least 2-3 inches back from the edge of the benchwork and add some small obstacles between the track and the edge. Use some well-glued miniature bushes, a small slightly raised bank, a robust fence of some kind, or some clear acrylic plexiglass to form a physical barrier.
Old Wild Western and Mining Town Models to Make for Your HO, OO, or N scale Model Railroad
These mining and Wild West mining town buildings are not only fun to make but also historically realistic in detail. They are already pre-weathered to add character and authenticity to your railroad scene. They are easy to download and construct using scrap card and can be downloaded individually or in money-saving pack deals here https://www.modelbuildings.org/wild-west-mining Have fun! 👍
Adding Windows To Scale Model Buildings
This is an old video but it is still relevant today. I hope it inspires someone. Courtesy https://www.modelbuildings.org
Problem Solving S Curves
S-curves can be a railroader’s worst nightmare, yet they are a feature of many track plans because they can add interest to a layout. If you are going to add an S-curve, plan it carefully. That means that you need to have at least one straight section of track at as long as your longest car between the curves. Otherwise, regular derailments might become unwanted events on your layout. Fixing a problematic S-curve can be exceptionally hard once the track is permanently placed.
One of the most challenging placements for an S-curve is just beyond a turnout. Avoid having a curve in the opposite direction immediately after the turnout diverges. Follow the straight section between changes of direction practice mentioned in my post of 19 Nov 2024.
Modular Layout Recommendations
Charles is planning an N scale layout and asks:
“I’d like to build a 3-section layout that I can bring out at Christmas and set up in the living room for the holiday. A dogbone design is more or less what I had in mind. I don’t know how to set up the tracks that will span between the segments. I plan on putting it in places where I’ll have removable upright 2 or 3″ dia. dowels as studs throughout the layout so I can put a protective top on each section. The base will be a hollow door cut into 3 sections. I am looking for help, suggestions,etc. Thanks!”
If you can advise Charles, then please post your comments here.
Value of Second-Hand Engines and Rolling Stock
William asks readers:
“How much are second-hand engines and cars worth in HO? I have 17 engines and 88 cars and was wondering how best to sell them and how much I could ask for them? Does anyone have any experience selling used model train?”
Digitrax Control
Doug asks readers:
“I purchased an HO Scale Digitrax DCS 210 with a DT602 Controller. I can’t seem to get my engines to run and was wondering if there was a resource that could help me program in my engines so that I could run them? I know the engine works as when you put it on the track you can hear the motor running.”
Shimming Track For Bridge Abutments
Michael has HO scale and writes:
“I read abutments at the end of bridges serve to support the structure and foundations from the horizontal and vertical loads that get placed on them. I will need to determine the necessary heights and widths needed to support the bridge and track elevation, with my main concern being how to maintain level track over joins leading to and over the bridge. I am very much in the early planning stages so want to get my head around the process before I start out. Any help would be good. THX”
You can post your comments and suggestions under this post.
Careful Track Planning From The Beginning To Avoid Potential Problems Further Down The Track
There’s no point in spending time, effort, and money building what you thought was the perfect layout, only to modify it or start all over again. That is very different from improving it because there’s nothing wrong with making positive changes and expanding your railroad as and when your skills develop. Most model railroaders do that – their railroad progresses as they progress.
Making the track curves too tight
With the pressures of fitting everything into a layout, there will always be the temptation to make the curves tighter than they should be. This is typically fraught with problems, even if you have done some test runs with locomotives and cars around the curve.
Even if the trains run okay –
Does the tight track curve look natural? If you are modeling a modern-era railroad, rolling stock lengths are much longer these days than they were in the past. Long cars make the curves look even sharper than they are.
Would a real railroad have curves that tight? The answer to this is always a resounding “no.” Real railroad curve radii are much larger than can be accurately modeled in a reasonable space. The best that can be done is to make the curves as large as your space will permit, then use some scenic tricks to distract the viewers from the appearance.
What happens when you buy a new loco or longer car that won’t make it safely around the curve? This goes back to the era in which you choose to model. A setting with large late Steam-era articulated locos is not a good decision for a minimal space. Logging and mining or switching puzzle layouts with shorter rolling stock are better choices if your situation requires sharp curves.
The golden rule is this; make the minimum radius AT LEAST as large as recommended for the longest car you plan to run on your layout. That way you won’t have any regrets later.
Watch This Step-By-Step Demonstration Showing How To Make This Workshop Which Could Also Be Used As A Farm Building. Make As An HO Scale, OO Scale, Or N Scale Structure. See How In This Short Video …
This scale model building could be used as a workshop, small warehouse, garage, or farm equipment shed. You can make it to HO scale, N scale, or N scale – and even add the translucent skylights as demonstrated in this quick video. You can download the plans here https://www.modelbuildings.org/farm-buildings-pack-deal-c
Dented Gondola Cars
Rich models HO and asks:
“Recently watched several shallow gondolas go by, most of them were badly dented and ‘sway-backed’ in the middle. Probably scrap service or headed for scrap themselves. I remember a model train article about carefully using heat to warp and dent cars. Does anyone have suggestions of how to replicate this? Thanks”
Wiring of Engines
Jim models HO scale and asks readers:
“I Love the old ‘Blue Box’ Athearn engines. They are easy to work on. I have two questions relative to the wiring of those engines.
First off – If I hardwire the engine, where do I solder the ‘Negative’ wire to on the frame, or drill a hole for a screw.
Secondly – I would like to run an A – B – A consist correctly. what do I have to do to make the second ‘A’ unit run backward to the first unit?
I am HO and run on a DC layout
Thank You for any held or suggestions. And no, I am toooo old for DCC!!!”
Layout Wiring With DCC
Andy models N scale and posts this question for readers:
“I am about to start wiring my layout and using DCC. My Power Bus starts at the outlet of the DCC connection but what is the best way to ‘anchor’ or ‘finish’ the other end of the bus? Thanks, Andy M (Wiring Newbie).”
If you can assist Andy, please post your suggestions below his post.
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