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Kato N Scale Turnouts | Toggle Switches | LEDs
Art has a question for N scale enthusiasts and asks:
“N scale Kato Turnout controls – what other cheaper toggle switches can be used for Kato N Scale turnouts and how do you attach switch direction LEDs on the control panel and on the turnout track indicating direction? Also if you have parallel controls on different sides of a layout, what is the best way to wire switch controls and lights? Thanks for the input.”
Comment below.
Rust Colored Paint
Rudy asks readers:
“Is there any such thing as rust colored paint? I have been unsuccessful trying to blend paint to simulate rust on my stock. It doesn’t look realistic. I would appreciate any ideas. Thanks.”
Add your answer below.
Coffee Grounds As Ballasting
David wants advice from readers on ballasting:
“I am attempting to use percolated coffee grounds as ballast in my large main switch yard. The color is perfect for a heavily oiled track-bed. The problem I encounter is that, since there are oils in the coffee grounds, the regular ballasting methods of applying alchohol followed by a diluted glue solution will not keep all the grounds together. After drying, when I use a vacuum to suck up the excess, some large pieces of ballast are removed. Obviously the oil effect of the coffee grounds doesn’t allow for good adhesion. What can I do to remove the oil from the grounds prior to ballasting?”
Add your comments below.
Converting Scale Drawing For HO Layout
Tom asks for help from readers who have a mathematical mind:
“I’m trying to build my first layout and having trouble converting the scale layout to life size. The scale is 7/8 inch = 1 foot. If that is so then what does each 1/8 inch equal in life size?”
Add your comments below.
Weathering Car Sides
Here is a tip supplied by RussellM who is a member of my online Model Train Club:
Have a go at using a small piece of wire to dab on spots of rust paint. Let dry a little before you lightly brush it down to simulate the rust running down the sides of the car. You simply use a single strand of stranded wire.
Easy Steps To Good Rail Yard Design
Here are some excellent suggestions sent in by Harold who is a member of my popular online Model Train Club:
Most of us have far more cars (rolling stock) and locomotives than we can possibly operate at once. One option is to simply store excess cars and locomotives in boxes or on display shelves or cabinets. It is possible, however, to store all of your extra equipment on tracks in a yard that may, or may not, be part of the visible operating portion of your layout.
Here are some tips if you are planning on building a rail yard:
1. Try to incorporate at least one staging track with it connected to the main track at both ends. If you have room for two, then even better. The purpose of yard (apart from storage) is to collect incoming cars, rearrange them and get them on trains that will take them to their destinations. The key is to have enough space to do this efficiently.
2. Try not to cram too many tracks into a small space. If the tracks are too close together it could cause a domino effect if a car derails.
3. Always plan an escape route and avoid having spur tracks that could trap your locomotive behind a line of freight wagons.
4. Keep your yard design simple. A complex design can lead to more potential problems even with a simple mistake.
A yard should be relatively easy to get in and out of. Keep the design simple and the operation will be simple too.
Painting Scenery And Rolling Stock
Here is one of the hundreds of useful tips available to members of my online Model Train Club.
Toning Down Colors
Here’s something I’ve discovered. I no longer use white or black paint on my layout without mixing in other tones. I find pure white and pure black a little stark and unreal as those colors stand out too much! I also stick with matt paints (not gloss) on most things. Gloss might look ok on a shiny new loco, but it looks too unreal on most things. To tone down black or white paint I usually add a small drop of another color such as diluted brown just to take the starkness away. Remember with white to just add a tiny dab of another color, because if you add too much you’ll have to add a big quantity of white to overcome the problem. If you add too much brown for example, you might be best to pour it out and start mixing again.
Making Buildings Look Real
Here is a tip sent in by a member of my online Model Train Club. There are hundreds more inside the members area. To join see the link in the right column.
I took some digital photos of the displays in some local shop windows and reduced them on my computer and printed them out so they fit the scale of my buildings. I glued them in place and covered them with some clear acetate to represent windows – you could use recycled clear plastic lids.
Building A Shelf Layout
Here is a tip sent in by a member of my online Model Train Club It has been edited slightly following a useful suggestion from another reader.
Here are my essentials for building a shelf type layout:
1. Perhaps consider track re-railers following some turns. This assists to re-rail the cars which can come off the track around the curves. However, if you do need to have re-railers on either side of your curves then you might have a problem with your layout. Either you are operating way too fast for the layout design or the trackwork is BAD.
2. I think it is a good idea to install a wire guard rail or flexi glass to protect the trains from serious damage as they could accidentally derail and smash to pieces on the floor. OOOCH!!
3. Running the trains often helps keep the track clean, as will a track cleaning car. High level layouts can be harder to clean and can accumulate dust and even rust more quickly.
4. I painted my baseboard black. This way everything is highlighted on my black baseboard.
Locomotive Won’t Run
Vinny asks readers for help:
“I have a new MTH Proto 2.0 engine. I am trying to run it in conventional mode (do not have DCS command system). The loco won’t run. The lights come on, the engine chatter works. When I increase the voltage, the horn comes on and will not shut off. I charged the battery with MTH proto 2.0 charger and have the same results. What else can I do?”
Add your suggestion below.
MDF Bases
Malcolm has kindly contributed this tip:
"Rather than using Standard MDF for your base you can buy MR MDF which is a moisture resistance MDF which we use for Kitchen Cupboards."
Comment below.
Building Digital Controllers and Receivers
Derek asks:
“Hi are there any books that give you the circuit details for building digital controllers and receivers? DCC I had an old article in Practical Electronics 1980 for the main controller but lost the 2nd article on receivers.”
Train Club Members Share Their Tips
Here are a couple of useful tips from members of my Online Model Train Club. I’m sure you’ll find them helpful:
Club Member Penn gave this tip for Humps On Layout Joins
Sometimes the diluted glue/detergent mix used to ballast the trackwork can seep into the MDF (chipboard) joins where trackwork crosses over those joins. If the glue mix soaks in it can cause the join to swell at that point. This can create a pronounced hump and cause the track to lift. I’m sure you can imagine the problems that could cause and the problem could be tricky to fix.
So, it is better to avoid it happening in the first place. The trick is to seal the edges of the MDF board with undiluted PVA at the point where a track could cross. Before putting the track down I would paint all the track bed area with undiluted PVA. I would also use undiluted PVA to paint any areas that will be ballasted. To be on the safe side Iould extending the painting an inch or two beyound the area to be ballasted. I would thoroughly seal the MDF joins, screw holes, and any area where the diluted glue mix might penetrate. To be on the safe side I would give it another coat when dry. I would also seal any extra holes I might drill (such as point motor and wiring holes) before ballasting. I’ve had an expansion hump in a join under my track and I know how annoying it can be, so I’m now super careful.
Another member of my Online Train Club (Pete575) gave this tip for Easier Drilling
Drilling small holes into harder materials, can sometimes have its problems when the drillbit wanders as it attempts to gain bite. An example would be holes for grab irons. One solution is to imprint a small dimple in the hole location before drilling begins. You simply use a small awl., or a hard sharp pin and firmly press it in the base material to make a small pit. After doing that you place the tip of your drill bit in the pit and drill the way you normally would. Doing it this way can be much less frustrating.
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HO Diesel Loco Identification
Ed is hoping an experienced model railroader can help him:
“I was given a LV diesel locomotive with no identification. Having some LV roots, I would like to determine what kind of loco this is. Features are: LV – black and white – red flag – #638 six axles – front cab.”
Comment below.
Problem Roller on Diesel Engine
If you have experience and can advise Ron, please comment below.
“I have two post war O diesel engines and both units the contact rollers burnt off. What causes this problem thanks and any help will be appreciated”
Genesis BigBoy
Carlos wants to hear from anyone who can help him solve a problem. He hasn't supplied many details:
"My BigBoy Genesis is programmed with a number and avery thing, was running perfectly and one day it stop running. Only the sounds function work. What can I do please?"
Comment below.
Peco Points Corroded
Derek asks readers:
“Hi I have just unpacked the 00 trains from 20Yrs storage and the Peco points have corroded under the frog rivets I have tried gentle emery paper and CRC but the resistance across the points is still quite high. Any help would be appreciated.”
Add your suggestions below.
3D Buildings For 3D Backdrop
James asks readers for help. Please use the comments link below this posting if you can assist James:
“I would like to build 3D back drop buildings for my N scale layout and would like to know the best tool to cut the side part of the building in half with little waste and a fine smooth cut.”
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